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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-09-2013, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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Default Hydraulic Clutch

Have one coming in for the Holidays. Searched all threads I could find but somewhere I read you shouldn't just do "gravity" bleed, but there is a procedure to put your finger on the end of the slave bleeder and pump hand lever???? Can't find that post.

What is the proper way to bleed, and how long does it generally take?

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-09-2013, 10:58 AM
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When I did mine, I wasn't aware of a 'proper' procedure. Felt like I was pumping forever and getting nowhere. I don't think a gravity bleed will help much since the hose actually travels upwards a little while going over the engine. I ended up having to draw fluid out from the bleeder valve to get most of that big air out.

Once I did that, standard bleeding process worked to get the little bubbles out.



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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-09-2013, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broggyr View Post
When I did mine, I wasn't aware of a 'proper' procedure. Felt like I was pumping forever and getting nowhere. I don't think a gravity bleed will help much since the hose actually travels upwards a little while going over the engine. I ended up having to draw fluid out from the bleeder valve to get most of that big air out.

Once I did that, standard bleeding process worked to get the little bubbles out.
So what is "standard" procedure? Pumping while covers off and let drain? How could that work?

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-09-2013, 11:06 AM
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I meant bleeding like you would a car or truck:
- Fill reservoir with clean brake fluid
- Pump lever, hold, open/close bleeder
- Repeat until no more air comes out



2013 XCT, Boardwalk Blue w/ Vicwrapz
S&S Cams, Lloydz filter & ATS +5, PCV, UD pulley, Alto Red Eagle clutch plates
Madstad Windshield, 5000K HID, TriOvals, Memphis Shields wings, Ultimate seat
JVC KD-X35MDT, PBR300X4, Polk DB6502, DaytonAudio ND140-4 rear
HyperLites, LED driving lights, Lloydz dyno 105+H and 117+T
Arlen Ness blinkers, KlockWerks KlipHanger bars, Avon grips

Spectro Golden 4 20w40 for Victory L.SG424, Kury Sabertooth LEDs
THE FEW, THE PROUD, THE OBSCURE. TTWFO2
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-09-2013, 11:11 AM
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keep in mind all air will rise to the top it never stays at the bottom.
Bleeding the clutch would be just like the break system.
To make it easy and fast. Clamp the master cylinder in a vise. Now pour in a medium amount of break fluid. Put finger over where banjo bolt goes and squeeze lever. It will push your finger off. Now do this a couple times. Now you have no air in the master cylinder.
Once you have slave cylinder and hose in place. Attached master cylinder and bleed keeping bars turned to the right so master is at its highest point. Cover all paint with towels.
Once you get a good stream out of slave cylinder now go up to master cylinder and squeeze the lever no more the a 1/8" this will allow the rest of the air to get out of the line. You might have to do this five six times. If you squeeze the lever more then a 1/8" your just forcing the air back down the line and it will take longer to get the air out.
youtube has a lot of how to videos

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-09-2013, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by visionjohnny View Post
keep in mind all air will rise to the top it never stays at the bottom.
Bleeding the clutch would be just like the break system.
To make it easy and fast. Clamp the master cylinder in a vise. Now pour in a medium amount of break fluid. Put finger over where banjo bolt goes and squeeze lever. It will push your finger off. Now do this a couple times. Now you have no air in the master cylinder.
Once you have slave cylinder and hose in place. Attached master cylinder and bleed keeping bars turned to the right so master is at its highest point. Cover all paint with towels.
Once you get a good stream out of slave cylinder now go up to master cylinder and squeeze the lever no more the a 1/8" this will allow the rest of the air to get out of the line. You might have to do this five six times. If you squeeze the lever more then a 1/8" your just forcing the air back down the line and it will take longer to get the air out.
youtube has a lot of how to videos
Wow, does this sound like a messy job. Clear the air while not attached to bike then try to attach it while full and no lines or closed bleeders? You'd have brake fluid everywhere and go through a lot of bottles wouldn't you?

Mike
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-09-2013, 09:58 PM
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#1 attach slave cylinder
#2 route the line
#3 attach the line
#4 bench bleed master cylinder. Fluid will not come out if you don't squeeze lever.
#5 attach line to mastery cylinder
#6 now start bleeding


or hook everything up pour in fluid and start bleeding. Come out in morning and only squeeze lever 1/8" and watch for bubbles to come out

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