Kuryakyan Lights - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-06-2014, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 68
Default Kuryakyan Lights

I went to a cycle show over the weekend and finally got to look at a set of these lights up close on a Harley. They look beautiful and relatively easy to install.

Anyone done one on their XC? Snaking the electrical easy enough/hide well enough?

http://www.kuryakyn.com/Products/180...rd-Maximus-Kit
dashbarron is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-07-2014, 09:53 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: SE PA
Posts: 417
Default

I've never installed the Kury brand but I've installed several other kits on different bikes. The main point is how hard you want to have to work to see the wires when your done, me I don't want to see the lights when they are turned off. I'll take off most of the body parts and hide as much as I can, take the time to plan it out and for the most part I've been able to attach to the bike's stock harness or hide along the frame. Another tick I've learned, tape on the lights where you think you want them and apply power to make sure the light is where you want.

2012 Victory Cross Country Tour, Sunset Red.
Parts added to make her louder, faster and more mine.
Stage 1 filter and pipes, Lloydz VFIII & ATW.
Clearwater Darla, LED GLO, emergency lights and siren.
Bushtec hitch and harness, Kompact Kamp trailer.
ChuglyXJ is offline  
post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-07-2014, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 68
Default

That much fun eh? Maybe I should have a good look at the frame and see what I can before I start. The battery is right in the front and out in the open, and if I use what looks like provided terminal plugs it might be tricky to try and hide the cords.
dashbarron is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-08-2014, 12:06 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: SE PA
Posts: 417
Default

I look at it this way, the more time I take to hide everything when installing it the more I'll be happy with it after and the better it will look IMO. It is also too cold/icy to ride so if I want to spend time with the bike it will be tinkering in the garage until my road thaws enough to be passable again.
On a XC with the battery cover there is plenty of room to hide the connections on the battery and I know that you can get the control box under the seat or behind a side cover with no issues. Not to push you one way or another but I've been very happy with LED Glow products.

2012 Victory Cross Country Tour, Sunset Red.
Parts added to make her louder, faster and more mine.
Stage 1 filter and pipes, Lloydz VFIII & ATW.
Clearwater Darla, LED GLO, emergency lights and siren.
Bushtec hitch and harness, Kompact Kamp trailer.
ChuglyXJ is offline  
post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-08-2014, 05:50 PM
Senior Member
 
steviej's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Scituate, MA
Posts: 112
Default

I installed the large set plus two of the long lizard lights on my previous Vulcan. They are expensive and do a fine job lighting up specific parts of the bike. Each lizard light is only about 2-3" long and has only 6 or 7 LEDs in them so you don't get a long continuous string of lights. You can link them together but there will be lengths of wire and not lights. I also had the remote as well but that died within a year. The set itself comes with a switch that can be positioned up under the tank or somewhere that stays pretty much dry. I liked the ability to select specific colors or scroll through multiple colors. Overall, it was very easy to install. The wiring is a tad bulky with all the connectors between pods but as stated earlier, if you take your time and plan it well you can hide the wiring well. The wires are red and black so keep that in mind as the red one will be more visible. One other item to think about is the XC is a long bike so you may need extensions to get lights to the back part of the bike. This will involve more connections. My fear with this kit was eventual water damage at the connections. Using a dielectric grease on each connection should keep 99% of the water out. On the plus side, the connections between lengths of lights will make remove of the tank or other body panels easier without having to peel off the light or undo what hiding of wiring you may have done. Simply unplug that section attached to the part you need to remove and you are safe.

The lights can be set to solid or flash/strobe at different rates if you want. Check you local laws. In MA we cannot have/use "red or blue lights that revolve, flash or oscillate" while the vehicle is in motion on public thoroughfares.

All that being said, if I were to do lights again, I would take it to a professional installer and have long stings of LEDs installed with black wires well hidden. It would probably be a little more money but would most likely look much cleaner.

steviej

Last edited by steviej; 01-08-2014 at 05:57 PM.
steviej is offline  
post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 68
Default

Much appreciate all the feedback; giving me ideas and time to think.

I'm leaning towards a red glow and per your suggestion Chugly I'm looking at these: http://www.motorcycleledlights.com/A...ting-Kits.aspx

-- But only single color and the brightness may vary depending on light size vs. the Super Lizard set...but for 1/3 of the cost.

I have plenty of time and a heated building to work on my bike. I'm not the handiest, which is why I asked about difficulty, but you chaps seem to think it's easy enough with patience and that battery box hides well enough.
dashbarron is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome