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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Default Fuel Filter

Has anyone changed their fuel filter on a cross bike? How hard is it?

2011 Cross Country
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 11:26 AM
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I have done it. Run your tank down as far as you can and break out the manual. I changed the screws, as per the manual, but others did not. If you can change your oil and remove your tires for a tire change, you should be go to go.

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D&D pipes, PCV, Llyodz performance filter w/strip in place, Llyod's timing wheel (set +4) and various other visual do dads. :cool:
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 03:32 PM
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Gee a 2011 and you need new filter. I'' bet there are guys with fifty thound miles on theres and have not touched it. If you use good gas I bet you can go to fifty and then some.
Why don't you call Rylan as The Vic shop and see what he says.

http://thevicshop.com/Contact.html

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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This is a pic I got from The Vic Shop facebook page showing a fuel filter with 28 k on it. A dirty filter means fuel pump is working harder= less life to fuel pump. A filter is a lot less than a pump.
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2011 Cross Country
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 08:13 PM
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Just found same post I am shocked. Guess spring will be doing it

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 10:07 PM
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Well, we do buy them to ride. That same post and talking with Ryland convinced me to do mine last year when I hit 30k.

Ride safe.


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2011 CrossRoads
D&D pipes, PCV, Llyodz performance filter w/strip in place, Llyod's timing wheel (set +4) and various other visual do dads. :cool:
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 11:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vagabondjpm View Post
Well, we do buy them to ride. That same post and talking with Ryland convinced me to do mine last year when I hit 30k.

Ride safe.


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How did yours look after 30k?

2012 XC Imperial Blue/Blacked out, LLoyds filter, LLoyds timing wheel,
VM1 DR cams, PC5, LLoyds ECM, Big Gonzo, KM meat hook bars (internally wired), Conquest underdrive pulley, KM instrument bezels, JTD lowers with speakers, PBR300 amp with Polk 6.5, .40 cal cheese wedges, tinted turn and tail
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-01-2014, 05:30 AM
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30K is probably a good time to change it .. That's when plan on doing it on my XC .. But will have the 30K in less than 2 years time getting close to 24K now with 16 months since owned .. Changed it on my Ultra at 50K when was 27 months old and didn't really look all that bad ..

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-01-2014, 06:06 AM
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Anyone know the part # ??
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-01-2014, 07:06 AM
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I did not take pics of mine but it was very dark but not as bad as the one posted. I was glad I changed it. The bike started running smother at idle and I am sure the filter had a little to do with that.

My .02. By this time (33k) on my previous ride, I was on my third complete engine rebuild. I invested a great deal to keep it on the road. When I look at the minimal requirements for factory recommended services, it is worth it in both from a financial standpoint and experiencing Victory dependability, to do the basic maintainers. Just pony up and your pony is much less likely to leave you on the side of the road.

For part numbers, check out the online parts schematic on most Victory dealers websites.

Ride safe.


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2011 CrossRoads
D&D pipes, PCV, Llyodz performance filter w/strip in place, Llyod's timing wheel (set +4) and various other visual do dads. :cool:
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