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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-13-2014, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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Default LED running lights power

I plan on putting some nice LED running lights on my XR. I have a switch bracket I got with my heated grips and there is a blank spot in it that I think the Vic light bar switch would be put. My plan is to buy that switch and use it for my LED's. Question is, is there a place in the headlight cowl to tap into for power? I was thinking to just tap into the low beam hot wire and be done with it. But there must be a place for the light bar power. If so I can tap into that easier that cutting and splicing wires. Any suggestions?

2011 XR Midnight Cherry, Hard Bags, Vic htd grips & seat, Vic medium Windshield, unlocked speedo, Lloydz Air filter, VFC III, Lloydz ATS +4, Vance & Hines slip ons

1993 Vulcan 1500 (sold)
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-13-2014, 07:20 PM
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A test light works wonders for finding that hot wire. If you connect to the low beam, they will go off when you go to high, or is that what you want?
I went with the Clearwater Darla high power LED lights ( the Glenda are the same but are 800 lumens compared to the Darla's 2,000 lumens) cuz they connect to BOTH the high and low beams and have a controller to adjust the brightness when the lows are on so you don't dazzle oncoming. When you go to high, the LEDs go on 100%. Not cheap, but very high tech, well made and have bike specif mounting hardware. www.clearwaterlights.com

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-13-2014, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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The low beam stays on when I switch to high....I just get 2 bulbs lit. I think if there is a light bar connection, it would be easiest..

2011 XR Midnight Cherry, Hard Bags, Vic htd grips & seat, Vic medium Windshield, unlocked speedo, Lloydz Air filter, VFC III, Lloydz ATS +4, Vance & Hines slip ons

1993 Vulcan 1500 (sold)
1981 Yamaha Seca 750 (ridden into oblivion)
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-13-2014, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philmonger View Post
The low beam stays on when I switch to high....I just get 2 bulbs lit. I think if there is a light bar connection, it would be easiest..
Mea Culpa--you're right, both are on when on high beam. Grab that test light friend.

2010 Midnight Cherry XR. 7Jurock, Lloydz AF, ATS, AFR tuned VFCIII, IAV, and T-6 and locally repacked pipes = big smiles. SOLD to a dear friend, so it's still in the family."
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-13-2014, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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Looks like I gotta go digging! My only real concern is adding additional current draw to an existing circuit. Don't want to pop a fuse. I figure the light bar circuit should be able to handle a couple of LED's. Looks like an education is coming my way...LOL! Still gotta order the switch anyway, so I got time to ponder this...

2011 XR Midnight Cherry, Hard Bags, Vic htd grips & seat, Vic medium Windshield, unlocked speedo, Lloydz Air filter, VFC III, Lloydz ATS +4, Vance & Hines slip ons

1993 Vulcan 1500 (sold)
1981 Yamaha Seca 750 (ridden into oblivion)
1977 Honda 550 (sold)
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-13-2014, 08:42 PM
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LEDs don't have much of a current draw. Nothing to fear.

2010 Midnight Cherry XR. 7Jurock, Lloydz AF, ATS, AFR tuned VFCIII, IAV, and T-6 and locally repacked pipes = big smiles. SOLD to a dear friend, so it's still in the family."
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-13-2014, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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I'm just a cautious SOB is all. I got 2 10 Watt LED's, a little over 1.5 amps total draw. Still, an ounce of prevention...

2011 XR Midnight Cherry, Hard Bags, Vic htd grips & seat, Vic medium Windshield, unlocked speedo, Lloydz Air filter, VFC III, Lloydz ATS +4, Vance & Hines slip ons

1993 Vulcan 1500 (sold)
1981 Yamaha Seca 750 (ridden into oblivion)
1977 Honda 550 (sold)
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