Spark Plug Refresher - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-04-2016, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Default Spark Plug Refresher

This time of year your doing your spring tune up. RFr those that don't know how to or you they have for got.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhuC...ature=youtu.be
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-04-2016, 08:45 PM
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I didn't watch the whole video but someone should mention the most important thing about changing plugs and that's getting the gap right.

What is the correct gap for the 106 engine and is it the same for both the steel frame and composite sand cast frames?

Putting out only half the info helps no one.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-04-2016, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by BBob View Post
I didn't watch the whole video but someone should mention the most important thing about changing plugs and that's getting the gap right.

What is the correct gap for the 106 engine and is it the same for both the steel frame and composite sand cast frames?

Putting out only half the info helps no one.
Gap = .036" / .9mm. Torque = 15 lb/ft or 102 nm. A dab of anti-seize on the threads. A bit of dielectric grease on the porcelain to ease boot removal. A blast of air in the recess prior and during removal, but not after plug is out to avoid anything getting into the cylinders. Stick with the OEM plugs - you don't know better than those who designed and tested the engine. Plugs are cheap, change 'em at about 10K, I do and feel an improvement.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-04-2016, 11:09 PM
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That's what I'm talking about!!



Anyone reading this thread will now walk away with a full boat of knowledge. Good stuff Ric!
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016, 03:17 AM
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it is almost the same as starting a oil thread

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016, 01:19 PM
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Gap = .036" / .9mm. Torque = 15 lb/ft or 102 nm. A dab of anti-seize on the threads. A bit of dielectric grease on the porcelain to ease boot removal. A blast of air in the recess prior and during removal, but not after plug is out to avoid anything getting into the cylinders. Stick with the OEM plugs - you don't know better than those who designed and tested the engine. Plugs are cheap, change 'em at about 10K, I do and feel an improvement.
Not to nitpick but the manual has a different gap specified. For the XC.

Spark Plug Type (Gap) NGK DCPR6E (.032 in. / .8 mm)

2013 Zach Ness Cross Country - #110
Lloydz Air Filter // VM1-DR // PCV // ATS // D&D Unwrapped

110 HP // 110 Ft.Lbs

Last edited by Defuse; 04-05-2016 at 01:25 PM.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016, 01:36 PM
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Not to nitpick but the manual has a different gap specified. For the XC.

Spark Plug Type (Gap) NGK DCPR6E (.032 in. / .8 mm)
I wonder why--it's such a tiny difference.

2010 Midnight Cherry XR. 7Jurock, Lloydz AF, ATS, AFR tuned VFCIII, IAV, and T-6 and locally repacked pipes = big smiles. SOLD to a dear friend, so it's still in the family."
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016, 01:37 PM
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I wonder why--it's such a tiny difference.
The only thing I could think of would be weight difference between XR and XC.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016, 01:39 PM
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The only thing I could think of would be weight difference between XR and XC.
That's why I got the XR, I couldn't weight for the XC.

2010 Midnight Cherry XR. 7Jurock, Lloydz AF, ATS, AFR tuned VFCIII, IAV, and T-6 and locally repacked pipes = big smiles. SOLD to a dear friend, so it's still in the family."
2017 Spyder F3 Limited - keeps this old guy in the wind and riding with friends.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by visionjohnny View Post
This time of year your doing your spring tune up. RFr those that don't know how to or you they have for got.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhuC...ature=youtu.be
Quote:
Originally Posted by RICZ View Post
Gap = .036" / .9mm. Torque = 15 lb/ft or 102 nm. A dab of anti-seize on the threads. A bit of dielectric grease on the porcelain to ease boot removal. A blast of air in the recess prior and during removal, but not after plug is out to avoid anything getting into the cylinders. Stick with the OEM plugs - you don't know better than those who designed and tested the engine. Plugs are cheap, change 'em at about 10K, I do and feel an improvement.
Good stuff. Maybe there should be a sticky in the tech section with all the "maintenance tips and tricks". That would make it easy to find because this thread will inevitably get buried.

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