Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Gold Coast, Australia.
For a start very little wear happens to your clutch on shifts.
Its slipping it that causes wear, like easing it off the lights, low speed maneuvering,hill starts etc.
Clutch is comparatively easy and cheap to replace compared with gear damage.
Ive been experimenting on the dragstrip, trying to get the quickest, cleanest shifts possible in an attempt to get to the finish as quickly and cleanly as possible.
Theres a few different schools of thought , depending who you talk to.
One is to pre-load the shifter and snap the throttle off/on quickly which brings the bike up to the next gear instantly, and smoothly. ..Leaving the clutch lever completely alone except to get off the line.
Now I'm talking drag racing here but principles are the same.
The other is to hold the throttle wide open with shifter pre-loaded and fan or tap the clutch lever and shift.
This method gets a fast smooth up-shift as well.
On the track though I'm having trouble being consistent in that occasionally I'll miss a shift and hit the rev-limiter (6300rpm on mine).
I'm changing at max power which is 5900rpm so there's no room for error, tap the clutch in a bit too far on the last method and I'm bouncing off the limiter.
It's something I need a lot more practice at to be consistent, that's why, well part of the reason why I didn't race at the All Bike Drags last Sunday.
The other reason lack of money, and also the niggling thought at the back of my mind that I'm flogging the crap out of a bike that's gotta last me!
Ive adapted some of the last method to my street riding, not holding it wide open obviously,
Preloading slightly and just lightly fanning or tapping the clutch lever as I upshift, with a slight reduction in revs at the same time gives me nice smooth shifts.
I also have an ulterior motive in that my clutch has the Barnett spring and cover plate that is a heavier pull than normal so just fanning the clutch on upshifts saves wear and tear on my left hand.
Experiment with what works best for you and the bike.
A good quality semi-synthetic oil seems to work best too.
Fresher the oil the better the shifts.
Full Syn didnt work for me on the strip as I had lots of missed shifts though I was trying to shift conventionally at 5500-5900rpm and messing it up.
So semi-syn, preload and lightly fan the clutch is my recipe.
Let us know how you go hey
Victory Vegas 2010
Lloydz 109"cube big bore
" " 495 cams
" " TorqueTubes
" " timing wheel @4 deg.
" " Primary plate
" " IAV
RPW Slash pipes
Progressive 465 rear shock
Kingpin USD Forks
18" XC front wheel
1 3/4" 'Burleigh Bars'
Stebel air horn
Victory Cross Country 2010 (106)
Lloyds air filter
" " VM1 Cams
Home gutted exhaust
Both tuned by [email protected]