Long term problems people are finding - Page 2 - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-12-2018, 09:40 AM
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My bike has a bad fuel tank. I keep filling it but it slowly empties over the course of 200 miles.



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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-12-2018, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by BP6666VR View Post
Nah mate, just real BAD quality bolts & nuts are used on the vics, see the broken off piece ? Thats all white oxidized .... Crazyyyyy , also the rim shafts rust like that, even the engine bolts & nuts oxidate ... The exhaust is hanging of that bolt, so if this guy had loose exhaust flange bolts, all the pressure will be on that cheap ass bolt ...

I had jap bikes standing in the snow & rain & sun, all year long, ride 6 days a week .... and the bolts looked better then on these vics , garage kept .... Ha ha ha

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Not likely. That bolt is not aluminum nor does the galvanizing plating (a surface coating treatment) process put zinc into the metal, it sits on the surface. That red is rust = steel. Oxidization = oxygen = air. Air needed to get into the center of that bolt to make it rust. It was cracked/flawed. On the piece of the bolt/stud still in the bike the rust goes right to the edge on the bottom. The shiny part is the separation of the only metal that was still holding it together. Left alone it will rust as well. Any white oxidization would be confined to the outside surface and only if it had been coated with a protective layer. You can also get a silvery looking separation of metal when really cheap pot metal has been used but that's not seen on high stress pieces. It's a metal best left for decorative attachments and Hot Wheels.

In my opinion of course.

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Last edited by 53canuck; 10-12-2018 at 10:02 AM.
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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-12-2018, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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Hard part now will be getting the swingarm off and whats left of the bolt out

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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-12-2018, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by broggyr View Post
My bike has a bad fuel tank. I keep filling it but it slowly empties over the course of 200 miles.
Simple solution. Get a Mr. Fusion. See the movies "Back to the Future" for reference.

I've been wanting one of those for my truck that likes to slurp gas a little too much.
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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-12-2018, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 53canuck View Post
Not likely. That bolt is not aluminum nor does the galvanizing plating (a surface coating treatment) process put zinc into the metal, it sits on the surface. That red is rust = steel. Oxidization = oxygen = air. Air needed to get into the center of that bolt to make it rust. It was cracked/flawed. On the piece of the bolt/stud still in the bike the rust goes right to the edge on the bottom. The shiny part is the separation of the only metal that was still holding it together. Left alone it will rust as well. Any white oxidization would be confined to the outside surface and only if it had been coated with a protective layer. You can also get a silvery looking separation of metal when really cheap pot metal has been used but that's not seen on high stress pieces. It's a metal best left for decorative attachments and Hot Wheels.

In my opinion of course.
Exactly
.. ....

I am not sure why you say "not likely" as all the above is correct .... your post & my post ...



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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-13-2018, 02:25 PM
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To me the seats do not hold up like they should. The stock first seat that came on the bike I had it recovered only after 2 or three years. Now in all fairness I do ride the bike almost every day. The Jap bikes I bought used ten years old+ and the seats were still factory, no tears etc. Now the Goldwing I bought had the seat eaten off by cows, ha, ha. So the first seat I had recovered, it lasted a good long time. Now I have got a Mustang seat a Daytripper, narrower than stock lets me sit lower to the ground. The electrical switch controls on my bike corroded up inside way to soon after about a year the way I remember it I had to take them apart, clean the green crud out then I used die-electric grease in them, been fine since. Some other little nitpick crap also. I have got a 2011 XR so it has the noisey torque limiter, I try to ignore the noise in the lower gears. Those torque limiter parts are kind of pricey, have tooooo many other things taking away my bike repair money right now, ha, ha. ........ overall I still think they are very good bikes.

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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-16-2018, 02:36 AM
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Hard part now will be getting the swingarm off and whats left of the bolt out
Getting the bolt out isn't going to be the problem. Keeping the electronics safe while welding a piece of sch 40 black pipe on the broken end of the bolt with 309L stainless rod will be. Once you weld a short nipple without threads on it ( from the inside of the pipe with a low tech stick welder, 1/16 rod) the bolt will come free after it cools down, Just grab the pipe with channel locks and twist.. A shot of penetrating oil wouldn't hurt.
But making the electronics safe, That will take some time, research and effort.
Bearings and race will need to be replaced on that side after the bolt is removed.
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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-16-2018, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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Some guy heard a bang and then said his bike was all over the road. when he got home he opened his saddle bag and found his inner bag destroyed with a peace of steel
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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-16-2018, 01:37 PM
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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-23-2018, 06:40 PM
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Noticed in that first pic that the support bracket under the swingarm joint is missing. Mine keeps breaking at the seam. Did you just toss it?

07 Corey Ness Jack & 09 Jack
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