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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-03-2013, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Default Can't believe everything you read in the forums

After reading all the threads on the clutch cable issues on my Kingpin, I asked a question (not sure which board it was on) whether lubing the clutch cable on my 2011 Pin was necessary since it was one of the newer models. I was promptly told "YES", so the next day I lubed my cable. It became almost impossible to squeeze, but I did not put 2 and 2 together and was ready to blame the clutch itself. Today I read on one of the other forums about a new tech at a dealership that lubed the cable and the dealer had to replace it because it was ruined. The newer teflon cables only need the ends lubed--- not the cable itself.

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-03-2013, 11:02 PM
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Two answers here for you.
First, nothing you read on the internet is necessarily correct. If you choose to believe a post, it is up to you.
Second, I have read lots of posts that advise against lubricating anything more than the ends on a cable operated Vic clutch. I suppose that answer one comes into effect here but I am fairly confident that anything more than end point lubes of a Vic cable are a bad idea. You need to judge that for yourself. See answer one.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-03-2013, 11:41 PM
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I found the thread where you asked your question
Clutch question for you wrenches out there

Hate to say this but you misunderstood what was said.

In post #2 jcanrun stated he assumed you lubed the clutch lever, not the clutch cable
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcanrun View Post
I assume you checked the clutch adjustment at the lever and also lubed the clutch lever. With so few miles, maybe it's a little on the loose side. I noticed my clutch seems to jump at engagement when I let it out too fast. So I try to evenly release the clutch lever. I must admit, it took me a while on my first Victory to get use to Victory's clutch, it's not the smoothest or lightest I've ever felt on many bikes. Perhaps you could stop by a dealer and ask the mechanic to take it around the block to see if he notices anything out of the ordinary.
In post #5 you state you lubed the cable and ends

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4 inch pistons View Post
Let me resurrect this thread if I can. I have since bought a XR, so the Kingpin doesn't get ridden as much. The clutch now is VERY hard to pull. It works fine and I lubed the cable and ends, but this is the hardest clutch I have ever pulled in my life! I changed the oil with Amsoil--- did that do it? Any suggestions other than replacing it?
I know I've read several posts on this and other forums. Every time it was said not to lube the cable if there is a teflon coating on it, only lube the ends.

They don't have the 2011 King Pin's owners manual on line but they do have the 2010's. Page 102 states
Quote:
Maintenance
Clutch (Mechanical)
Mechanical Clutch Cable Lubrication
Lubricate the cable ends at the intervals recommended in the periodic maintenance table beginning on page 72.
NOTICE: External casings are factory-lubricated. Additional lubrication could be detrimental to cable performance.
Verify proper routing and smooth movement. Inspect for damage to the external casing, and inspect exposed cable wire for fraying, kinks or corrosion. Replace any damaged, sticky or sluggish cable.
1. Disconnect the cable at the clutch lever and at the primary cover.
2. Lubricate the ball and barrel ends with VICTORY All Purpose Grease or equivalent.
3. Reconnect the cable and adjust freeplay as needed
I did bold and underline the relevant parts.

I'm sorry that you had to buy a new cables but you need to make sure you read what is written, not what you think it says. If it makes you feel any better, I know I've done similar things in the past as I'm sure most if not all of us have

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-04-2013, 04:54 AM
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Some of us try to give experienced advice, when it comes to maintenance. A lot of people always want to SHORT CUT and not buy the proper literature on a specific job. Then want to BLAME others for their F%ck ups. Some of us are guinea pigs for these companies and get stuck with low bid equipment that they throw on this bikes. One is the clutch cable. They went 10 years knowing of the problem and until we started posting and bitching it got have ass fixed. On some off the bikes it is the clutch itself, on others it is the cable, and on others it is the ends falling off. So 50% of what you read is mis-info. Just like 50% on this forum try to help and others are just asses.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-04-2013, 04:49 PM
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that reminds me of when I had my stage 1 flash. I asked the mechanic about removing the rubber strip from the air filter. I told him the forums said to do it. he said don't believe everything you read on the forums, that most people were just repeating what they had read before and very few of them had any real training in motorcycle repairs.

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in order of ownership, sears compact scooter, honda 305 scrambler, honda 160 dream , triumph 500 trophy trail, honda cb450, sportster, honda f750, 2nd sportster, harley flh, harley super glide, 3rd sportster, bmw k1000, harley low rider, 2nd harley super glide, harley heratage, harley road king, bmw r1150rt,
thats just the street bikes!
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-04-2013, 06:01 PM
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I have to ask what you lubed your cable with

2008 Vision
Mpls, MN.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-04-2013, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by visionjohnny View Post
I have to ask what you lubed your cable with
Spray Graphite. Done it many times on other cables. My fault --

Life is the best teacher, but the problem is that it kills all of it's pupils.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-04-2013, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4 inch pistons View Post
Life is the best teacher, but the problem is that it kills all of it's pupils.
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