Clutch Replacement Cliffnotes - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
 
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old 05-25-2012, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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Default Clutch Replacement Cliffnotes

I copied my original post from theVictorMaryCharlie.com and put it here. The steps sort of assume a person has read the service manual, sorry. Others can add their own tricks and tips.

1. Don't try to do this on the side stand, Get the bike upright. Using a lift is preferable.
Also have a buddy to help.

2. Rylan Voss's (The Vic Shop) clutch tool is useful but not necessary. Three 4" C clamps will work fine.
The nylon tool to lock the primary is useful but you could use a 5/8" wooden oak dowel pin.
An impact wrench will take the clutch nut off easily without blocking anything, getting it back on to 125 ft lbs is the problem.

The clutch nut is about 35mm I think. I used 1 1/16" impact socket and air impact wrench.

Update: Some folks report having disassembled the clutch pack while it is still on the bike, thus skipping the clutch nut removal.

3. Have a couple changes of oil or a clean catch pan. The new primary gasket can be tricky and will tend to drop out of place
so you might have to loosen the primary cover and re-position the gasket. Guess how I know this.
With a positive pressure crankcase you will know right away if there is a problem.

Update: A good trick is to get some 2" bolts the same diameter and cut the heads off. Screw them into the holes, then place the gasket on them. This will help keep the gasket aligned and help replacing the primary cover.

4. You will need a new primary cover gasket and possibly a shift shaft seal, although I did not replace the seal. Time will tell if this was a mistake.
If you are replacing the disc pack, I would go ahead and replace the spring also.
The biggest wear items are the friction discs and the spring, no point in using a $50 primary gasket and not replace the spring.

5. Remove the shift linkage from the shaft making note of the position of the small dimple on the shaft and the clamp.
You might also want to remove the foot peg, but don't have to.
Remove the Freedom cover plate and the inside cover plate. Be careful with the thin O ring gasket that is under the inside cover plate.
Remove all the bolts on the primary cover, making note of the shorter one used next to the shift shaft.

6. The stator holds the primary on pretty tight at the front. Be prepared. When you go back on, watch your fingers. The stator will grab the cover and pinch them pretty good!

7. Disassemble the clutch pack carefully, laying out the pieces in the order they were removed. A good pair of snap ring pliers is needed.
I used a Barnett clutch pack and pressure plate (thanks Conquest) so I don't know about the Victory pack.
The Barnett has a set of assembly instructions that are slightly different from the service manual.
Follow the Barnett instructions if that is what you are going back with.

8. Be sure to soak the friction plates in new oil for about 15 minutes before assembly.

9. Examine the shift ratchet, primary drive gears, and everything else you can see with the cover off.

10. Install the re-built clutch pack and tighten to 125 ft lbs.

11. Re-install the shift shaft in its hole in the crankcase aligning the dogs on the star.
Remove the clutch actuator rod from the primary cover. There is a small screw pin holding it in place under the Freedom cover plate.

12. Re-install the primary cover gasket and the primary cover. Double check that the gasket is in place all the way around.
The gasket has a gel/silicone sealant made onto it so I was hesitant to apply anything to help hold it in place.
Update: The 2" bolts from step 3 help a lot.

13. Torque the cover bolts to 85 in lbs

14. Reinstall the actuator rod while using a small screwdriver to maneuver the rod on the throw out bearing that is
accessible under the Freedom cover. The 15 degree angle is pretty easy to get because the rod only installs in certain positions.
You'll know it when you get it right.

15. New oil, then fire it up and check all around the cover gasket for leaks. If the gasket is out of place air will be pushing out
of the crack in that spot. The gasket stays in place pretty well on the bottom and front, it's the top and rear that might be a problem.

16. Adjust the clutch and test ride!


Good Luck!

Every day is a good day to ride. Some days are just better than others.


2010 Cross Country
Vic Performance filter, D&D, ATW, VFC III

2006 Vegas (sold)
2003 Shadow 1100C (sold)
Various other bikes all the way back to 1968.
BCVR LC#35

Last edited by rocketo; 05-25-2012 at 10:30 AM.
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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old 05-25-2012, 03:21 PM
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On the primary gasket you can use a heavy layer of wheel grease or whats been use for ever
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2007_Gasgacinch_Gasket_Sealer_--.jpg (62.5 KB, 16 views)

2008 Vision
Mpls, MN.

Please add your state and model of bike you have. Click user CP @ top of page and then far left click edit signature. Thanks
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