Exhaust conundrum - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-20-2015, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
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Default Exhaust conundrum

Hi folks. There's a fork in my road and I could really use some guidance from the pool of knowledgeable Victory owners on this forum (genuine statement, not sarcasm.)
First off, I want to make some things crystal clear. I do not have extra money for bike parts. Nearly all of my wife and I's money is going into updating our very recently purchased house. Also, I am in no way writing this to insinuate that the readers can't figure out what I am describing. I am merely trying to be as thorough as possible to hopefully eliminate any confusion. With that said, I have searched this and other Victory forums for an answer. You may believe otherwise, and if so, please do not bash me, please. My free time is riddled with house projects and kid sports. I am a machinist with a decent mechanical ability and access to a billion dollar shop, so making parts isn't entirely out of the question. Onward ho!
Last month I sold a set of pipes to a fellow member because I needed money. 2 weeks ago I came across a new complete stage one straights kit for 360 shipped. After scouring the Internet for videos and an honest 6 hours of forum reading, I decided that the pipes I bought wouldn't have the volume I am after. More research directed me towards removing the catalytic converters. That was easy enough with a soft jawed vice, a drill, and most importantly, a slide hammer to pull the cartridges out. After that was done, I then took out the baffles to have a look at them. The baffle consists of a tube wrapped with packing on 1/2 it's length. The unwrapped part is perforated with some holes to allow gasses through and out. The baffle is capped at the beginning with a metal dome. The holes are too small in MY opinion, so i filed down the tack welds and out fell the domes. Essentially what's left is similar to a glasspack muffler. I reassembled everything and set it aside due to time constraints. Here we are at the fork in the road. Would this set up yield enough back pressure or should I place a baffle where the cats used to be? Also, would unplugging the o2 sensors richen the air/fuel mixture enough to safely ride the bike with out the risk of melting the top end? Or should I get the stage flash AND unplug the o2 sensors? I truly do not know what to do and I can assure you, without a shadow of doubt, that I am not just being lazy about this. I posted pictures whether they are necessary or not. If anything, this might help a member in the future with a similar situation. First pic is the uncatted headpipes. Second pic is one of the baffles before dome removal. Third pic is the dome by itself. Fourth pic is a shot through the modified baffle. My apologies for the long winded post.
Thank you for time and any possible advice.
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Last edited by doobliss; 05-20-2015 at 11:24 PM.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 01:17 AM
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As far as back pressure, you should be fine. I have a buddy with ground pounders on his highball, they are basically 2 1/2 ft of bent straight pipe. Your modded pipes should be longer than that and have a baffle.
As far as a/f ratios, just unplugging the o2s should be fine with just the exhaust changed. If you start doing more mods you should think about a fuel controller. The vfc-3 is fine but a pcv is better as the tuner can +/- timing and minus fuel.
If you are worried about running lean/rich, pull the plugs and check them every few hundred miles. If they look bad get the fuel controller and a tune.

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~PCV, Timing Wheel +6, Thrush Mod Exhaust, Madstad 11" windshield
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 01:30 AM
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Id get a Ness filter, PCV and a tune, if it was mine.
Not sure which bike you got though so my last suggestion could be totally wrong.
Well not totally.

Victory Vegas 2010
Lloydz 109"cube big bore
" " 495 cams
" " TorqueTubes
" " timing wheel @4 deg.
" " Primary plate
" " IAV
RPW Slash pipes
Progressive 465 rear shock
Kingpin USD Forks
18" XC front wheel
1 3/4" 'Burleigh Bars'
Stebel air horn
12.106 @110.90mph

Victory Cross Country 2010 (106)
Lloyds air filter
" " VM1 Cams
Home gutted exhaust
Both tuned by [email protected] Dyno

Gold Coast

Last edited by Motorbikerx; 05-21-2015 at 01:32 AM.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 03:19 AM
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Originally Posted by doobliss View Post
The holes are too small in MY opinion, so i filed down the tack welds and out fell the domes.
All those little holes are the same area as the baffle's exit hole. Belive it or not. I've done the calcs.

Lopping off the dome will raise the volume for sure. I left the domes in and drilled 10mm holes x 3 per row.

Either or I guess, but I didn't want overly loud pipes.

I love the smell of Freedom in the morning... smells... smells like... Victory!
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 03:28 AM
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When you start messing with the stock applications of your bike . it takes money to get where you want to be. That said you open up the exhaust, now you are talking some kind of tuning with a shop tune or fuel controller. When you read on others upgrades the air and exhaust is matched for a specific application with a map for a fuel controller or shop tune. You have no way to be able to put it back stock so now it is going to cost you money to get it right. I wish you luck that you do not damage your motor. Just unplugging O2 will not fix a problem they are there to work with the cats and back pressure. We all learn from doing some times trying to go cheap cost more in the long run.

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 06:47 AM Thread Starter
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I still have the factory exhaust and nothing has been cut up as far as wires go. The exhaust I bought is the one I've modified. I wish I could just go out and buy an intake and a pcv, but it isn't in the cards as stated in the OP. I appreciate the insight very much though. As far as the baffles go, I had no idea all the perforations were the same surface area as the exit. That's pretty wild.
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