Odd Cruise Control Shut-off Behavior - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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Default Odd Cruise Control Shut-off Behavior

I have encountered some unusual cruise control shut-off behavior that I hope someone can help me with. I have a 2012 XCT. Prior to this adventure, the cruise control shut-off worked very well.

I put on the 2" pullback bars just prior to a 1500 mile trip to southern WV. Everything on the bike is good except that after the bar change the cruise control will not shut off when I push the throttle grip closed.

When installing the new bars, I loosened the throttle and idle cable adjusters to allow me to remove the cable ends from the throttle grip. Unfortunately, I neglected to note the original positions of the cable adjustment nuts prior to loosening them. I also had to remove the cable tie on the neck of the bike that holds the throttle and idle cables (and a third cable or wire) to gain the slack needed in the throttle and idle cables to allow the installation of the +2" pullback bars.

After reinstalling these cables, I tried to follow the service manual instructions for adjusting the throttle free play (2-4 mm) and the cryptic instructions for the idle cable adjustment ("Turn throttle closing cable adjuster out until you feel slight resistance at the adjuster.") As buried amidst other wires as the idle cable adjuster is, there is no way I could detect any "resistance".

Anyway, after reinstallation, pushing the throttle grip closed would not shut off the cruise control. Tapping either brake still shut it off. Last night I examined these cables in the right switchbox housing. The idle cable was very loose. When the throttle was rolled on, there was significant slack in the idle cable inside the switchbox.

To elminate this slack I had to move the idle cable adjuster nut way out - like 1/2 inch of threads showing. If I go about 1 turn more on this nut, the throttle grip binds and will not snap closed when you let go. By the way, the throttle cable adjuster nut is only about 2 turns open and I don't even have the 2-4 mm of freeplay. At most I have about 1 mm.

With the above new settings on the throttle/idle adjuster nuts, the cruise wil shut off but it does not have that nice "pop" that you could feel previously when closing the throttle would shut off the cruise. It feels like I really have to close the throttle too firmly to shut off the cruise.

Any help to fix this problem would be appreciated. Thanks. Sorry if this explanation is long-winded. Tis my nature to be verbose.

G'day,

Vinish

p.s. Sorry, should have added that I checked the cruise release cable and it is properly seated in the bracket behind the right hand side cheese wedge.

Last edited by Vinish; 07-20-2015 at 09:39 AM.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 11:59 AM
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pull right hand cheese wedge and see if cables are in there track.
I adjust my throttle cable with very little play. When its full open I adjust the return cable so it quickly close the throttle.

I don't believe by closing throttle with hand will shut off cruise.

Part of this video might help you

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MmfT...t2kCx&index=13

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by visionjohnny View Post
pull right hand cheese wedge and see if cables are in there track.
I adjust my throttle cable with very little play. When its full open I adjust the return cable so it quickly close the throttle.

I don't believe by closing throttle with hand will shut off cruise.

Part of this video might help you

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MmfT...t2kCx&index=13
VJ, Thank you. I did look where you describe. All cables are in their tracks and all seems to look normal. I will look at the link you provided and also try your way of adjusting the idle cable.

As for whether or not closing the throttle will shut off the cruise, I will respectfully disagree with you. I have three 2012 XCT and all of them will shut the cruise off by closing the throttle firmly. Whatever open position the throttle is held in by the cruise, if you roll back to near the closed throttle position you are supposed to feel a little resistance and then almost a "pop" as the rolling back of the throttle pulls on a cable that releases/turns off the cruise. By "turns off", I don't mean that the system is turned off (i.e. red light turns off) but, rather, that the cruise is no longer engaged. This is why there is a cruise control related cable going to the same set of rotating plates that are moved/held by the throttle/idle cables.

Quoting from the owners manual:

"Cancel Cruise Control
To temporarily cancel the cruise control and allow use of the
resume feature:
apply the brakes
or close the throttle
or disengage the clutch"

G'day,

Vinish
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 01:09 PM
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You might want to start the adjustment from scratch again.
I just pulled up the manual and it is really cryptic.
I'm not sure I do it the official way or not but this is how I do it for every bike I own and it works for me.


Pull the cheese wedge and find the wide open stop for the throttle plates. There is physical stop that limits how far the throttle plates open. That is what you need to locate. You need to be sure that when your throttle is wide open the throttle plates in the throttle bodies are fully open too.

Just look around at how it works in there and you will find a stop that limits the rotation of the throttle plates near the end of their travel.
I have no pictures or even a Vic to take a picture of here otherwise I'd post photos.

Loosen both cables till you are sure that one is not going to interfere with the adjustment of the other.
Adjust the throttle cable, the one that pulls the throttle open till the throttle drum or whatever just barely contacts the wide open stop that you located. Snug up the lock gently and recheck it. You want to be sure the throttle body plates are fully opening but you want it to happen at the very end of the throttle drum rotation. You just want the drum or whatever to come to rest on the stop with the throttle fully rotated.
Once you snug up the cable lock your done with the pull cable.

Next begin to adjust the return cable by taking the excess slack out of it till the throttle just starts to not return on it's own when released. Once you find that point back it off till the throttle just snaps shut when released. You want it to snap shut. Then add the tinniest more slack to it for safety or you may already be there. At this point you should be very close to where you need to be unless something else isn't right.

Hope this helps.

BTW a large number of the bikes I have worked on or purchased used have not had the throttle cables adjusted so that the throttle plates actually open all the way. Some had a bunch of expensive high performance addon's that were wasted by the throttle only opening 3/4 or so. You can't tell till you look.

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Last edited by Joe_; 07-20-2015 at 01:41 PM.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Joe,

Sounds like excellent advice. I will try this and see how it goes. What is really strange is how much further the idle cable adjuster had to screwed out to allow the cruise control shutoff to work after I put in the +2" pullback bars compared to the small distance this adjuster was screwed out before the bar swap.

G'day,

Vinish
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 02:57 PM
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There was a recent thread on the other forum, regarding the cruise's not working at all. The solution for that OP was to disconnect the electrical wires that enable the throttle roll-off, and then his cruise worked again (except for the roll-off feature, which he didn't care about, and I've never used that myself, either).

So, maybe that pair of wires got disconnected on your bike, during your work.

Here's that thread, sort of:

http://www.thev-o-g.net/threads/crui...ol-inop.57820/

Because of the censorship set up for this forum, references to the other forum are butchered. So, if you want to read that thread, copy the link I just inserted -- usually a right-click, and then a choice of Copy Link Location or something like that -- and paste it into your browser's URL field, BUT BEFORE YOU HIT ENTER REMOVE THOSE HYPHENS, THE ONES IN "THEV-O-G"; then, you can hit Enter and it should work.

Cheers,

Bill P.

2012 XCT (SOLD) : HeliBars; Centramatics; PC-V; Lloydz air filter; 11" Madstad; Rivco LED mirrors; Doran TPMS; Stebel horn; Motolights; CustomLED trunk flasher; KewlHeel shifter; CycleOps trunk rack; BeadRider seat; Vibranator bar ends; Passenger grab handles; Powerlet outlets; Handlebar RAM mount; RicZ laydown plate; Brukus SaddlebagSecure; 14" flexible antenna; RAM cupholder on trunk; shock Schrader valve relocation.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinish View Post
Joe,

Sounds like excellent advice. I will try this and see how it goes. What is really strange is how much further the idle cable adjuster had to screwed out to allow the cruise control shutoff to work after I put in the +2" pullback bars compared to the small distance this adjuster was screwed out before the bar swap.

G'day,

Vinish
Check it out cause if the throttle plates are not opening completely or too hard against the stop they will still adjust up and the throttle will operate.
But you will either loose performance because the plates are not opening fully or shorten your throttle cable life because you are stretching the cable each time you hold the throttle wide open.

presently owned bikes
2014 XC 8 ball that no longer stalls
1993 HD fxrp
1982 HD Sturgis
2009 Honda rebel
co owner
1991 gl1500 A w/ Champion Daytona 2+2 sidecar.
"God works both good and evil in a mans' life and you deal with it as best you can" Somebody..
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 06:52 PM
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Vinnish,

I had a similar problem. I'm guessing that you actually have too much slack in your push cable.

Here's a thread I made about the Cruise Control issues I was having.
https://www.victoryforums.com/showthread.php?t=129161

Here's a cut/paste from that thread on how I resolved the problem:

I really hate it when people have an issue and get it solved but never follow up afterwards.

Hopefully this will help others that may have this issue in the future.

As mentioned in my previous post, this issue was making me crazy. To the point that I could not stay asleep. So I got up at 6:15AM this morning and headed out to the garage and did the following.

- Took off the gas tank (for the 4th time this week).

- Took off the cheese wedge.

- Unhooked the cruise control cable.

- Loosened both nuts on both throttle cables

- Unhooked the cruise control housing bracket.

- Took apart the switch housing.

- Unhooked the cables from their holes in the throttle grip and removed the 1/4 turn throttle ring.


So at this point, I was basically starting from scratch....

I examined the 1/4 turn ring to make sure that there were no rough edges and then started to reassemble the throttle with the new ring and attached the cable ends to their respective holes in the grip.

I also unplugged the 2 wires from the throttle switch and attached a multi-meter to each terminal so I could tell if it was open or closed. This is a key to helping solve this issue. The switch will be open if the cable is in the correct spot. If it is closed, your cruise control will not work!

I closed up the switch housing and I could tell that the push cable was bowing out as mentioned in the original post in this thread. I knew that this also had something to do with the problem as mentioned earlier. So I starting playing with the adjustments of the cables on the throttle body, always listening for the "beep" of the multi-meter.

I then re-opened the switch housing and looked at the cables and both of them were loose on the ring.

WTF!!!

Then it dawned on me. In order to keep the cables tight to the ring, I needed to use the adjusters at the handlebars to remove all of the slack that we created to add the ring. This is another key point to get this adjustment right.

So after adjusting the cables at the switch housing, I tightened everything up at the bars. Then I made sure that the switch remained open while tightening the nuts at the throttle body.

Before I put the gas tank back on, I did steps 1-9 of the cruise control diagnostics 19.23 in the service manual to further confirm that everything was set up correctly.

Since everything seemed to check out, I put the tank and seat back on, then I washed the bike.

A short while later was the moment of truth when I took the bike for a test ride. I think I held my breath and said a couple prayers just before pressing the cruise control "on" button, then hit "set".

Low and behold, the cruise was functioning properly!

F*^% YEAH!!!!!

I made sure that it turned off with the front brake, rear brake, and throttle pushed to close and everything checked out just as it should.

SUCCESS!!!!!!

Sorry for the long post, but like I said, maybe this will help others out.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
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Astra,

Thanks much. My cruise never stopped working. My only problem was that the cancellation of the cruise setting by pushing the throttle forward stopped working. My push cable did indeed have too much slack on it. I have tightened it up and got the the throttle push cancel to work better but it still is not as good as before I installed the +2" pullback bars. What really has me puzzled are two things.

1) Why did installing the +2" pullback bars change things and
2) Why have I had to move the push cable adjuster at the switchbox so far out (tightening the cable)?

More experimentation later this week. Dang work keeps getting in the way of wrenching on the bike.

G'day,

Vinish
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-21-2015, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinish View Post
Astra,

Thanks much. My cruise never stopped working. My only problem was that the cancellation of the cruise setting by pushing the throttle forward stopped working. My push cable did indeed have too much slack on it. I have tightened it up and got the the throttle push cancel to work better but it still is not as good as before I installed the +2" pullback bars. What really has me puzzled are two things.

1) Why did installing the +2" pullback bars change things and
2) Why have I had to move the push cable adjuster at the switchbox so far out (tightening the cable)?

More experimentation later this week. Dang work keeps getting in the way of wrenching on the bike.

G'day,

Vinish
Because you had to remove the throttle cables to replace the bars and in doing so you would have altered the adjustment on them. Since it seems that the adjustment will make or break the roll off feature of the cruise, once you altered it, things stopped working. If/when you get it back to the same level of tension as before the bar swap I suspect everything will work exactly as before.

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