Observations after XC Cam install - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-10-2013, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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Default Observations after XC Cam install

I just installed my Lloydz cams in my 2011 XC and I thought I would give some feedback after the install in order to help any future installers. First of all I am going to reference PhilC64's cam install instructions that he wrote up because he did a great job. They can be found here:

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B95B...fUQ/edit?pli=1

So I'm going to assume that anyone planning on doing this mod has or will read PhilC64's instructions. I just wanted to add some of my observations.

-First of all, I'm also going to assume the if anyone is attempting to do their own cam install that they have some experience doing this type of work. If you aren't confident in your wrenching abilities you may want to pay an experienced shop to do the work. It's not the most difficult work I've ever done on a bike, but I'd give it a solid 3 out of 5 stars for difficulty.

-Before you start make sure that you have a really good assortment of metric sockets and wrenches. When your working in the space between the frame and the cylinder heads you will need several different lengths of sockets to get in the right places. For example, I had to use a 15mm deep socket, 1/2" drive, to torque my cam carrier bolts. No other socket or extension combinations would work.

-In PhilC64's instructions he mentions that you can use a 1 1/16" socket to turn the engine over. That socket will only work if it is a 6 point socket. If you have a 1 1/16" 12 point socket it will not work.

-You are going to zip tie the cam chains to the bikes frame to keep them from falling into the engine after you pull the cam sprocket. When you do this make sure you pull the zip ties fairly tight and don't leave much slack in the chain. If you leave a lot of slack in the cam chain they will bind up in the cam followers and stop the engine from turning.

-When I pulled the cam chain cover off half of it stayed with the engine and the other half stayed with cover. So I pulled the gasket in two pieces. The problem is that I have the typical problem with no Victory dealership close and nobody stocks that gasket anyways. So instead of riding my bike after the cam install I'm waiting on a gasket and that is frustrating. I would recommend buying a new cam chain cover gasket and new sealing washers to go under the cam chain tensioners before you start the job.

-You are going to need a tiny & strong magnet to pull the pins out of the cam carrier. If you have one of those automotive style extending magnets trust me it is not going to work. I used some little 3/16" disc style rare earth magnets that I bought at radioshack and they did the trick.

-In the cam chain install you pull both cams then reinstall the new cams beginning with the rear cam. You have to reset the timing of the engine when you install the new cams. If I were doing this again I would pull the first cam, then install the new cam in the exact same position without moving the engine. You could button everything down then move to the next cam. If you did this with both cams then you could button up the engine and not have to worry about resetting the timing of the engine because you would have never moved it. I pull the cams on my bro's V-Rod in this manner and it saves me the step of having to reset the engine timing.

That's it. I can't wait to see how the bike runs with the new cams but it will be late this week before the gasket comes in.

2011 Cross Country
-Cee Baileys Windshield & Lowers. Victory Lower Bag Rails, Driver And Passenger Backrests.
-RPW Exhaust, Lloydz Air Filter, VM1 Cams, ATS (Timing Wheel), 1/4 turn throttle & IAV. PCV with Custom Tune by Coweta Customs.

105.2 HP & 127 Ft-Lbs on a Dynostar (Eddy Current) Dyno.
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post #2 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 03:08 AM
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Default Re: Observations after XC Cam install

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2012 XC Imperial Blue/Blacked out, LLoyds filter, LLoyds timing wheel,
VM1 DR cams, PC5, LLoyds ECM, Big Gonzo, KM meat hook bars (internally wired), Conquest underdrive pulley, KM instrument bezels, JTD lowers with speakers, PBR300 amp with Polk 6.5, .40 cal cheese wedges, tinted turn and tail
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post #3 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 03:22 AM
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Default Re: Observations after XC Cam install

I completely agree..whith what you said. I did have the 1 1/16 socket to turn the motor over but after trying it I got alittle skiddish on messing up the timing key. So I used the bolt that holds on the timing gear...put 2 nuts on it "double nutted' ha ha about half way and that way turning the crank that way, worked great.

I zipped tied mine to loose and the cam chain bound up so I had to take the bottom bolt out on the cam blades..no real big deal but it can be avoided by having the zip tie tighter.

Now for the real ghetto stuff..ha ha. I for the life of me couldn't get the backbone up. So using some stupid idea I used a "little giant" type ladder I straddled the bike and ran a cargo strap around the top rungs and went to the front backbone and ratched it up until the bike was getting loose on the jack and then put my pry bar under and ..presto!! Not really a recommended process just saying how I did it..ha ha.

Anyways good info and a huge THANK YOU to Phil64 and BBob for the instructions. After I got them instlled I callled the local stealer and he aid it would be approx $700 labor to do it....I took tht 700 bones and powder coated everything ...hell yeah

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2012 XC Imperial Blue/Blacked out, LLoyds filter, LLoyds timing wheel,
VM1 DR cams, PC5, LLoyds ECM, Big Gonzo, KM meat hook bars (internally wired), Conquest underdrive pulley, KM instrument bezels, JTD lowers with speakers, PBR300 amp with Polk 6.5, .40 cal cheese wedges, tinted turn and tail
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post #4 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I really didn't like using the 1 1/16" socket to turn the engine over either. I used it and it did work, but if I were to do another cam install I would either buy the tool or put a bolt into the threaded hole for the timing gear like you did. While the socket worked, I get uncomfortable turning the engine over with the key because you are only contacting the corners of the key and if you were not careful you could round those corners off pretty easily. I also thought about taking an old 12 point 1" socket and cutting a slot in it that would fit the key. I think that would work as well.

I really think that just installing the new cams into the exact same location directly after you remove the old cams would save a lot of steps. You wouldn't have to worry about the cam chains binding up becasue they would never be loose when you turn the engine. And I can't think of any reason why you couldn't do it that way. Just pull the old cam, install the sprocket in the same position on the new cam and re-install with the timing marks in the same location. You wouldn't have to worry about resetting the timing. Just make sure that you torque everything properly when your done and button everything back together and move onto the next cam.

I didn't have the problem splitting the backbone like you did though. Mine came apart with a pry bar just like in PhilC64's instructions.

My best advice to anyone who wanted to do this themselves is to make sure you have everything that you will need before you start. It is frustrating having to stop in the middle of a job to go find a little magnet just to be able to pull a pin out. And it is even more frustrating having to wait more than a week for a stupid gasket just so you can test out the new cams.

2011 Cross Country
-Cee Baileys Windshield & Lowers. Victory Lower Bag Rails, Driver And Passenger Backrests.
-RPW Exhaust, Lloydz Air Filter, VM1 Cams, ATS (Timing Wheel), 1/4 turn throttle & IAV. PCV with Custom Tune by Coweta Customs.

105.2 HP & 127 Ft-Lbs on a Dynostar (Eddy Current) Dyno.
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post #5 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 01:14 PM
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I like your write ups.

Yes most defiantly buy all your gaskets a head of time. Mater of fact I'm going to the dealer to see what they care. I have one dealer 2 miles away and he for sure is a maybe the one that would have every thing is 80 miles round trip.
Thanks again for the write up

2008 Vision
Mpls, MN.

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post #6 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 01:43 PM
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you guys that have changed the cams, do you get much out of them in the usable power band? i have cammed just about every hd i've owned and honestly in the rpm range i ride in didn't get much bang out of them. i mainly did it on hd's for the sound. when you put pipes and cleaner on one, and s&s carb , the cams really bring out the sound. i rarely get over 3000 rpm though and the extra power just wasn't there at that rpm.

now , 2011 crossroads and 05 sportster bobber in the making
in order of ownership, sears compact scooter, honda 305 scrambler, honda 160 dream , triumph 500 trophy trail, honda cb450, sportster, honda f750, 2nd sportster, harley flh, harley super glide, 3rd sportster, bmw k1000, harley low rider, 2nd harley super glide, harley heratage, harley road king, bmw r1150rt,
thats just the street bikes!
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post #7 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 02:10 PM
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Nice write-up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajder View Post
...And it is even more frustrating having to wait more than a week for a stupid gasket ...
Arrr, stupid gasket!

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post #8 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajder View Post
I can't wait to see how the bike runs with the new cams
Unfair advertising. From the title, I thought I was going to be privy to an insane discussion of burnouts, wheelies, and general purpose debauchery.




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post #9 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-12-2013, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saddlebag View Post
Unfair advertising. From the title, I thought I was going to be privy to an insane discussion of burnouts, wheelies, and general purpose debauchery.
LOL. That will come as soon as I get the new gasket. I've got to replace my tires soon. I sense some burnouts coming in my future.


Quote:
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Arrr, stupid gasket!
This ^^^^

2011 Cross Country
-Cee Baileys Windshield & Lowers. Victory Lower Bag Rails, Driver And Passenger Backrests.
-RPW Exhaust, Lloydz Air Filter, VM1 Cams, ATS (Timing Wheel), 1/4 turn throttle & IAV. PCV with Custom Tune by Coweta Customs.

105.2 HP & 127 Ft-Lbs on a Dynostar (Eddy Current) Dyno.
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post #10 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-12-2013, 10:14 AM
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good stuff!! can i use this info to swap cams on my 2010 vegas 8 ball
what size torque wrench is needed?
fank you

2010 Vegas 8 Ball
VM1 cams, TTI, IAV, PCV, Timing wheel, RPW Thor

Last edited by glassback; 02-12-2013 at 10:16 AM.
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