Best cams for low rpm riders? - Page 6 - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #51 of 194 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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@WeekendRider that's a sweet power curve you have there I think that would make the bike feel great riding around "normally" and be balls-out for passing.
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post #52 of 194 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 01:00 PM
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Under drive sprocket

presently owned bikes
2014 XC 8 ball that no longer stalls
1993 HD fxrp
1982 HD Sturgis
2009 Honda rebel
co owner
1991 gl1500 A w/ Champion Daytona 2+2 sidecar.
"God works both good and evil in a mans' life and you deal with it as best you can" Somebody..
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post #53 of 194 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 01:24 PM
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@WeekendRider that's a sweet power curve you have there I think that would make the bike feel great riding around "normally" and be balls-out for passing.
Thank you (as if I had anything to do with it other than the installation of parts...thank you to Victory, Lloyds, Dynojet, RCX and the tune from KevinX.) I love my CC. It cruises nicely and when I kick it down a gear to pass it really moves.

But at the risk of getting kicked in the teeth from all the high RPM devotees, I prefer cruising in the 2250 to 3100 RPM range. In the lower part of this range, if I need to accelerate in a normal riding situation, the engine isn't terribly responsive to my needs...or perhaps I should say it isn't as responsive as my VTX was in this range (I know, different bikes/engines/gearing.) And when having a little fun off the line, the engine doesn't kick like the VTX did - off the line that is. I don't want anyone to get caught up in the comparison of the bikes, because that certainly isn't my point. My point is that if there is a way to improve the power in the lower RPM range and keep what I have at the higher RPM range, and it didn't break the bank, I would be very interested.

2013 XC Suede Nuclear Sunset
21" Conversion incl. ABS Module, Rear Shock and Forks
Lowered...a lot
RCX Slip-ons
Lloydz HPT Cams
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Southern Motorworx Tune: 118.08 HP - 114.97 Torque (before 31 tooth drive pulley)

Last edited by WeekendRider; 08-03-2016 at 01:40 PM.
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post #54 of 194 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 01:25 PM
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Under drive sprocket
What are the Pros and Cons of making this mod. I'm greedy and want to keep what I have and improve what I don't.

2013 XC Suede Nuclear Sunset
21" Conversion incl. ABS Module, Rear Shock and Forks
Lowered...a lot
RCX Slip-ons
Lloydz HPT Cams
Lloydz Air Filter
Lloydz Timing Gear +4
PCV
31 Tooth Drive Pulley
Southern Motorworx Tune: 118.08 HP - 114.97 Torque (before 31 tooth drive pulley)
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post #55 of 194 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 01:28 PM
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Damn, I have to be back to work Friday(I have a weird vaca schedule). If I was still off I'd ride up to catch the action. Thanks a ton for the offer, I'll keep it in mind when the time comes.
Are you and where are you getting the tuning done?
Damn! Originally we were going to schedule dyno tunes at Lloydz, but my brother has an AFR gauge (wideband O2 from Innovate) on the way so we are going to attempt to tune them ourselves for the street in the meantime. It's not that hard from what I've heard so I'll let you know how it goes!

**2012 Victory Cross Roads** Black Betty - 118 HP/122 TQ - Tuned by Lloydz
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post #56 of 194 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 02:01 PM
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What are the Pros and Cons of making this mod. I'm greedy and want to keep what I have and improve what I don't.
cons
Your speedometer will read a few mph different.
If the XC's cruise control has a upper limit. (I don't know) then it will drop out at a few miles and hour less speed than it did because the ecm will think the bike is going faster than it is.
Same with max speed limiter. You may only be able to go 120 rather than 125.

The biggest con is that a belt and sprocket combination might not be available for the X bikes. Some of the steel frame bikes are running them on this forum but I haven't heard of an x bike running one.


Main advantages are faster acceleration through every gear.
6th gear becomes much more usable. Starts off the line become much more friendly.




I'm running a underdrive primary in my HD fxr. It's technically the same as an under-drive pulley. It's wonderful. Bike has high performance heads and a cams as well as the correct compression pistons for the cam. The underdrive allows you to get onto the cam sooner. Makes up the torque lost by using a higher hp, more top end cam so it just gets right along bottom to top. Much more fun.

Someone other than me will have to chime in and tell you if an under drive pulley and belt are presently available for the XC. I've never bothered to look for one. My XC is just coming off of warranty.

presently owned bikes
2014 XC 8 ball that no longer stalls
1993 HD fxrp
1982 HD Sturgis
2009 Honda rebel
co owner
1991 gl1500 A w/ Champion Daytona 2+2 sidecar.
"God works both good and evil in a mans' life and you deal with it as best you can" Somebody..

Last edited by Joe_; 08-03-2016 at 02:33 PM.
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post #57 of 194 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 05:17 PM
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You can get either a speedohealer or a speedo drd to fix the speedometer. The ud pulley with fit all the narrow frames but geting ahold of one is gonna be the tough part. I just picked up a used one and having it instaled on Monday in Sturgis.

2011 vegas 8ball PCV, swept pipes rpw modified baffles, llyodz vm1-dr cam, ats +4, 1/4 throttle, ud pulley and ness intake.
KMC tuned 114hp/125ft/lbs
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post #58 of 194 (permalink) Old 08-04-2016, 06:44 AM Thread Starter
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@Joe_ does the UD pully lower fuel mileage enough to be concerned with?

Step 1 done. The ATS was installed last night. I bumped it up one degree from my previous install to +5.
Guess what? .....the heat is back. it was in the mid 80's when I left for the test ride and 79 degrees when I got back. I was not burning up in those temps, but I know this heat.....and its not the normal heat I've had since going back to stock. The bike has been very comfortable to ride heat wise with the stock timing gear. With this +5 ride I felt the heat building on thighs and calves and it really didn't evacuate much when I rode. This is the "heat issue" I've been dealing with over the last year+. If the temps had been in the 90s I would have had to stop the ride.

Performance with the timing advance was as expected, making the the engine feel more responsive out of the lower rpms.

I'm going to retard to +3 and see how that feels heat wise. I'm convinced I found the culprit in the heat issue. I'm going to have to play with the settings to find the sweet spot. Since I have the Stage 1 ECU upgrade I believe it adds a +2 advance on top of the ATS setting.

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"Living life is a great idea, but riding a motorcycle actually gives you a tool to do it..." -me
2013 Sunset Red Cross Country
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Corbin Dual Tour seat, Klock Werks Klip Hanger bars, Vicwapz
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post #59 of 194 (permalink) Old 08-04-2016, 06:53 AM
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That sucks Bro , but its got to be helpful to have narrowed the origins of the heat blast ....

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post #60 of 194 (permalink) Old 08-04-2016, 07:14 AM Thread Starter
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That sucks Bro , but its got to be helpful to have narrowed the origins of the heat blast ....
What sucks is I that I should've taken my time in the first place. But I was completely AGGRAVATED and at the end of my rope with the heat issues, plus I had intentions of getting rid of the bike....I just didn't care.
Its all good, sometimes a total reset and step back is what's needed....I'm going to work it out this time, when I'm finished next spring the bike is going to be running cooler and stronger than ever.

PaiN's Rides on YouTube

"Living life is a great idea, but riding a motorcycle actually gives you a tool to do it..." -me
2013 Sunset Red Cross Country
Vic Tri-Oval Mufflers, Lloydz VM1-DR cams, AF, PC-V @112hp/113tq
Corbin Dual Tour seat, Klock Werks Klip Hanger bars, Vicwapz
Avon Contour grips, Kuryakyn Kinetic boards and rear SwingWings
Victory black LED headlight and Touring Pack, Madstad 9" windshield
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