Popping/ backfiring - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-10-2017, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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Default Popping/ backfiring

Guys, I know my title implies 2 different phenomenons.

However, my question is in regards of ways to test to confirm having an exhaust leak or not, before wasting my time changing exhaust gaskets that might not need to be changed.

I've read numerous posts stating that Vics are poppers, but I would still like to test and confirm if possible. It is a lot like me to engage in work that not need done, and end-up I don't know..... Damaging something like in this case scratching my pipes or breaking an exhaust stud.... You know... End up with frustration and dismay to fix a problem that wasn't there in the first place.

Latest example is cleaning my ignition wires and connections to the coil.... Of course the rear wire/ connection separated, leaving me with a 2 piece wire!!!! ( and NO I didn't pull on the wire, I know better)Just cause... So I temporarily rebuilt it and ordered new wires for new thundervolts that came highly recommended on this site, but still...

So when going through a village at around 35-40 mph, in a gear that keeps me just above 2000 rpms, if I stay on that gear a for a steady period of some 30 seconds to a minute, I have about a 25% chance of hearing a nice pop as I accelerate out of that village during the next gear change.

My front exhaust nuts were a bit loose when I first got the bike, and needed almost a full turn to be snug.... For a few rides after that, they needed about 1/8-1/4 turn after each ride. So much so that I wondered if the nut wasn't seized on the stud and the stud unscrewed from the block during the ride!! I have yet to confirm that.

I've read about the particularities of Vic shifting and not completely unloading the clutch etc...

It doesn't pop half as much as it did, but I still get the odd pop here and there. Especially in cold weather. During the super hot days, haedly ever but when cold outside, a bit more....

Hey, if it's really the nature of the beast, so be it!!! But if it ain't, I'd like to fix it.

So how can I test it?!!!

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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-10-2017, 09:26 PM
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Don't know exactly how to test unless you could put something that bubbles where the exhaust and the engine meet like soapy water but that will burn off if the engine is up to operating temps. My 2011 XR popped like crazy when I put the aftermarket exhaust on but now that 5 years have passed it rarely pops now. When it does it usually in the up shift from 1 to 2 and sometimes to 3rd. It will pop if the revs get too low like riding down a twisty mountain road and I don't keep a little gas on. My bike is all stock except for the exhaust.

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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-10-2017, 09:38 PM
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rare the stud would unscrew, are they snug now?
No real drama to r+r your pipes I done mine plenty of times when experimenting.
Personally I like a little snap crackle pop as long as it dont go bang near a policeman and he returns the fire!
We fitted the Lloyds gaskets at rebuild time and Ive had pipes on and off a few times no leaks.
I add a smear of hi temp copper silicon whenever I do it for insurance.

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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-10-2017, 10:47 PM
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My 09 Kingpin 100 has never backfired or popped. Still has stock pipes. Our 2011 Pin 106 popped with stock and aftermarket pipes?. I will keep the 09 stock, I like not having it pop.

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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-10-2017, 11:43 PM
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Minimizing throttle movement when shifting minimizes popping. 2000 rpm is too low. Try keeping 'er closer to 3K minimum. If you still have the OEM exhaust gaskets, they are crap. Get Lloydz, they're thicker and softer. Someone posted a long time ago that the ones for a certain Jap car will work and cost less. You gotta do a search if you're interested.

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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-11-2017, 07:41 AM
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Like Ric said, Keep the R's up. These bikes don't like to lug like Harleys, they like to run in the higher RPM ranges. When cruising, I shift at about 3k. When I am having fun, the tach will tickle 5k

I would recommend you re-snug the exhaust bolts. You don't want snug, you want tight (I forget the spec). Otherwise you aren't forming the gasket to the head and you don't have a good seal.
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-11-2017, 07:57 AM
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I've read of two ways to examine the pipe/head joint for leaks. One makes sense to me while the other does not. The way that makes sense is to start bike in a garage with no air movement (no fan or wind). Light a small candle or a fireplace lighter (long stem). Move the flame all around the joint and any leaks will blow the flame around. The way that does not make sense is to spray something like carb cleaner all around the joint. Allegedly, any leaks will cause the engine rpm to change since the carb cleaner is a fuel and will change the amount of fuel the engine is getting. This latter method makes no sense to me. It would work on an intake manifold joint where anything sucked in through a leaky joint would enter the pistons but at the exhaust pipe joint, it would not enter the piston to change the rpm. Oh well, I've still heard of this latter method being used.

G'day,

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G'day,

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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-11-2017, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinish View Post
I've read of two ways to examine the pipe/head joint for leaks. One makes sense to me while the other does not. The way that makes sense is to start bike in a garage with no air movement (no fan or wind). Light a small candle or a fireplace lighter (long stem). Move the flame all around the joint and any leaks will blow the flame around. The way that does not make sense is to spray something like carb cleaner all around the joint. Allegedly, any leaks will cause the engine rpm to change since the carb cleaner is a fuel and will change the amount of fuel the engine is getting. This latter method makes no sense to me. It would work on an intake manifold joint where anything sucked in through a leaky joint would enter the pistons but at the exhaust pipe joint, it would not enter the piston to change the rpm. Oh well, I've still heard of this latter method being used.

G'day,

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It might burn good though.
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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-11-2017, 11:32 AM
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Dahammer
All vic's pop cause of the poor ECM/IAV that polaris put in the bikes. Stock pips hide the pops but there there.
Doesn't your bike have a fuel tuner like a PCV or something. If so that should take away 90% of the pops. A milled speed shift where you don't close the throttle will stop most poping. If you have exhaust leak you'll get a pop when you let off the gas. Am guessing the old owner might have not replace exhaust gaskets when he put on the short pipes.
Most auto parts store sell Felpro gaskets p/n 60659
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-11-2017, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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Don't get me wrong, it doesn't happen all the time. I could very well live with it. As said however, if it isn't normal, I'll fix it.

By the way, never ever have I gotten a pop when decelerating or downshifting. Always when upshifting.

I'll try the candle thing tomorrow. If it shows to leak, I will get the recommended gaskets.

Thanks.
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