Previous owner changed oil to AMSOIL 20/50 !? - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-09-2017, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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Default Previous owner changed oil to AMSOIL 20/50 !?

The previous owner of my Magnum , that was bought at an authorized dealer, changed the oil at 500 miles with AMSOIL 20/50 ?? I almost hate to ask this question because I have read that some like this change.

I am asking for the evidence of ill effects on this kind of change please. My bike has a little over 1000 miles right now. Im not sure if I should switch to the Vic 20/40 or not.
thanks
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-09-2017, 11:02 AM
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You have 2,000 more miles to go before you engine is broken in - aka loosened up. 20-50 is to thick for now, or maybe forever. If it was me, I'd drop it out and use either the Vic oil or Rotella T-6, which many here use, including me.
You do know that oil level readings are done with the bike VERTICAL.
DISCLAIMER: You have opened Pandora's box with a question about oil. Others will chime in with all sorts of misleading information. Ignore them and heed only what I wrote.

2010 Midnight Cherry XR. 7Jurock, Lloydz AF, ATS, AFR tuned VFCIII, IAV, and T-6 and locally repacked pipes = big smiles. SOLD to a dear friend, so it's still in the family."
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-09-2017, 11:19 AM
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Oh boy, a thread dedicated to OIL! Why hasn't anybody talked about this before?
RICZ, Motorbikerx, Vivi and 1 others like this.

Bucks County, PA
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-09-2017, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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I agree with you and thanks. I am experienced in the online Oil Saga and Blackstone Lab oil testing. It just surprises me why the previous owner would do this esp on a new bike. I had a bad experience with a Quart of Amsoil 20/50 in my Buell. It made the motor louder at speed and at idle. I drained it and put 20/50 Mobile one Vtwin back in. Motor was back to normal again. 35k on the Buell / Highway Bike.
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Last edited by Bueller; 12-09-2017 at 11:23 AM.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-10-2017, 08:07 AM
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Broke my new rebored resleeved and forged piston and Lloydz cammed 109 cube Vegas in first 50 miles on a specific Penrite break in oil, then the next 600 mile on straight Penrite15-50 mineral oil, then went to a semi-synthetic diesel oil (no prizes for guessing which brand)
I tried same brand full synth but it didn't shift gears well on the dragstrip so went back to semi.
It is now using a little oil between changes when ridden hard (which is most of the time)
May try Full Synth Penrite again with different gear shifting method and more relaxed attitude on the strip after talking with HC. as I think the benefits of a full synth outweigh the drawbacks.
Anyway till I get the bike back its all pie in the sky.
OILS being a very personal and controversy filled subject the only thing I'll say is Aussie Penrite oils for tough Aussie conditions....oils ain't oils as they say

Victory Vegas 2010
Lloydz 109"cube big bore
" " 495 cams
" " TorqueTubes
" " timing wheel @4 deg.
" " Primary plate
" " IAV
RPW Slash pipes
PCV
Progressive 465 rear shock
Kingpin USD Forks
18" XC front wheel
1 3/4" 'Burleigh Bars'
Stebel air horn
12.106 @110.90mph
114/123

Victory Cross Country 2010 (106)
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" " VM1 Cams
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-10-2017, 08:59 AM
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To answer the OP's question, if you don't feel comfortable having that brand of oil in your bike, just change it. You could even leave the same filter on. What little bit of Amsoil left in there will merge with whatever you decide to use.

What kind of oil you want to use opens up another oil thread.

Edit: I should have added to change the oil at the next regularly scheduled change to stay on your maintenance schedule. I guess that's obvious though.

Last edited by BBob; 12-10-2017 at 10:21 AM.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-10-2017, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBob View Post
To answer the OP's question, if you don't feel comfortable having that brand of oil in your bike, just change it. You could even leave the same filter on. What little bit of Amsoil left in there will merge with whatever you decide to use.

What kind of oil you want to use opens up another oil thread.
Yep...oils cheap, use quality and change it at least at reccomended intervals.
Price of a D.I.Y. oil and filter change is a pittance compared with how much gasoline you put through the tank in the same period.

For your own peace of mind dump the stuff that's in there and run Vicoil till the next change...by then the engine will be broken in.

Victory Vegas 2010
Lloydz 109"cube big bore
" " 495 cams
" " TorqueTubes
" " timing wheel @4 deg.
" " Primary plate
" " IAV
RPW Slash pipes
PCV
Progressive 465 rear shock
Kingpin USD Forks
18" XC front wheel
1 3/4" 'Burleigh Bars'
Stebel air horn
12.106 @110.90mph
114/123

Victory Cross Country 2010 (106)
Lloyds air filter
" " VM1 Cams
Home gutted exhaust
Maximus
Both tuned by [email protected] Dyno
110/116

Gold Coast
Australia

Last edited by Motorbikerx; 12-10-2017 at 09:41 AM.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-10-2017, 12:28 PM
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one should always use factory recommended oil for break in. Then its up to you. I ran Amsoil after break in for 25K and only thing was ticking on startup. One to two minutes later ticking was gone and never had clutch slipping

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-10-2017, 12:36 PM
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No lifter ticking with Rotella T-6 cuz its thinner when cold and circulates much faster. Makes for a great cold weather riding oil cuz of that too. Cuz its made for Diesel engines, it has a much heavier additive package aimed at protecting the innards of your engine.

2010 Midnight Cherry XR. 7Jurock, Lloydz AF, ATS, AFR tuned VFCIII, IAV, and T-6 and locally repacked pipes = big smiles. SOLD to a dear friend, so it's still in the family."
2017 Spyder F3 Limited - keeps this old guy in the wind and riding with friends.
Cure that ugly stand up license plate with the cheapest and best laydown bracket. Click this:
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-10-2017, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RICZ View Post
No lifter ticking with Rotella T-6 cuz its thinner when cold and circulates much faster. Makes for a great cold weather riding oil cuz of that too. Cuz its made for Diesel engines, it has a much heavier additive package aimed at protecting the innards of your engine.
And dont forget Diesel oils are higher in detergents to keep everything cleaner inside. Ill find a pic of inside my crankcase after 60,000 miles .
Not good to break em in on diesel oils and definitely no synthetic till the rings are nicely bedded in.
I prefer to bed in my rings on straight mineral after the rebore and resleeve .
On a stock bore Vic-oil though.
Houston! ... We have lift off...another oil thread is safely off the ground.....

Victory Vegas 2010
Lloydz 109"cube big bore
" " 495 cams
" " TorqueTubes
" " timing wheel @4 deg.
" " Primary plate
" " IAV
RPW Slash pipes
PCV
Progressive 465 rear shock
Kingpin USD Forks
18" XC front wheel
1 3/4" 'Burleigh Bars'
Stebel air horn
12.106 @110.90mph
114/123

Victory Cross Country 2010 (106)
Lloyds air filter
" " VM1 Cams
Home gutted exhaust
Maximus
Both tuned by [email protected] Dyno
110/116

Gold Coast
Australia
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