Terminal Removal Assistance Needed - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-25-2018, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
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Default Terminal Removal Assistance Needed

I am trying to remove the male terminals from the connector body for the handle bar switches...while I don't have a terminal release pick set (will be here tomorrow) I have used paperclips, little screwdrivers, paperclips ground flat; yet I haven't been able to release the terminal....anyone have any suggestions? I am assuming there is a tang that needs depressed like a standard automotive style terminal. I am further assuming that it is on the opposite side of the crimp on the terminal...I refuse to cut the wires! And for those that want to know "why" I'm changing bars and routing the wires internally....

Brian

2012 Hammer
Basement built, 11:1 - 117 Big Bore, CNC ported heads, CNC valve job, .015 deck, .495 cams, 801 MotoWorx Maximus tune, Torque Tubes, Barnett cables, Barnett Scorpion clutch, RPW Slash Pipes, Pro-Taper bars, Penske Shock. 124hp/146tq

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-25-2018, 03:48 AM
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If they are the same found on other models in various places around the bike (a picture would help) then yes; anything small you can use to push in on the tang while gently pulling them apart should do it. Are they like the white end of this cable?
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-25-2018, 03:49 AM
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Note: If they haven't been separated since original assembly they can be a little stuck. Sometimes pushing them together first will break the seal like stickiness.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-25-2018, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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The terimanls are not stuck as they freely a hair when pulling on the wire. I'm just not sure which side the tang is on. My thinking is that is is opposite side of the crimp and would have to be released from the front of the connector... Pics attached...
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Brian

2012 Hammer
Basement built, 11:1 - 117 Big Bore, CNC ported heads, CNC valve job, .015 deck, .495 cams, 801 MotoWorx Maximus tune, Torque Tubes, Barnett cables, Barnett Scorpion clutch, RPW Slash Pipes, Pro-Taper bars, Penske Shock. 124hp/146tq

2011 CCT
LRS windshield, D&D Slips, K&N Filter, HID lights, Maximus, Forged lowers
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-25-2018, 09:45 AM
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As you said; there are special tools but it looks like the right screw driver will do it for a lot of them. I can't tell which of the 3 instruction videos in the series is the right one for this application but I'm sure between them you will find your answer. FWIW; I've always had trouble with these too so these videos were good for me to watch too.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-25-2018, 10:06 AM
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One other thought just occurred to me; you might want to take a picture of the back side of each connector so you have a visual reference to put them back together the way they were if you haven't already done so.

Also; it would help others if you found the best method and took a picture showing how you removed the pin and what tool you used. Videos are best but pictures help a lot; especially for us visual people.

Here are a couple more vids that might help.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-25-2018, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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I was able to figure it out. Thanks for the video's however they didn't really apply. The "tang" on these connectors is part of the plastic connector body. If you are looking into the front of the connector, run your pick tool, (little tiny screwdriver) along the topside of the terminal and when you feel it make contact, gently pry up while gently pushing in. The object is to pry the tang, up and away from the terminal and slide the tool under the tang. Once properly released, while leaving the tool in place you can pull the wire out. If I get some time this weekend I'll attempt to make a video of the process...

The connector bodies are numbered so you can notate the position of the wires for re-assembly i also took several pictures...Now I've got to get busy and paint the bars and risers so I can get them installed!

PS. How do I edit my signature?

Brian

2012 Hammer
Basement built, 11:1 - 117 Big Bore, CNC ported heads, CNC valve job, .015 deck, .495 cams, 801 MotoWorx Maximus tune, Torque Tubes, Barnett cables, Barnett Scorpion clutch, RPW Slash Pipes, Pro-Taper bars, Penske Shock. 124hp/146tq

2011 CCT
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-25-2018, 09:27 PM
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Glad you got it sorted out. A video would definitely help others too.

Up near the top there's a line of options, one is "User CP" which means user control panel. Click on that and you will see the option to edit your signature on the left side. You might want to also edit your details and put your state in there. It can really help others get an idea what you might be working with.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-25-2018, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nvr_fst_enuf View Post

PS. How do I edit my signature?
Disregard, I was able to figure that out too. Look who put there big boy pants on today!

Brian

2012 Hammer
Basement built, 11:1 - 117 Big Bore, CNC ported heads, CNC valve job, .015 deck, .495 cams, 801 MotoWorx Maximus tune, Torque Tubes, Barnett cables, Barnett Scorpion clutch, RPW Slash Pipes, Pro-Taper bars, Penske Shock. 124hp/146tq

2011 CCT
LRS windshield, D&D Slips, K&N Filter, HID lights, Maximus, Forged lowers
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-25-2018, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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Updated my "details" as suggested!
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Brian

2012 Hammer
Basement built, 11:1 - 117 Big Bore, CNC ported heads, CNC valve job, .015 deck, .495 cams, 801 MotoWorx Maximus tune, Torque Tubes, Barnett cables, Barnett Scorpion clutch, RPW Slash Pipes, Pro-Taper bars, Penske Shock. 124hp/146tq

2011 CCT
LRS windshield, D&D Slips, K&N Filter, HID lights, Maximus, Forged lowers
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