Brake Line Flush - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-08-2018, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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Default Brake Line Flush

Harley is having to recall 251k bike worldwide due to water getting into the Dot 4 brake fluid over time (same as all Vic's use).

If nothing else this is a reminder to do a quick and easy brake line flush on your bikes before the season starts in the Spring. By sucking out the fluid in the reservoir with a turkey baster or large syringe and replacing it with new fluid before flushing the old fluid out of the lines you will make your job even easier.

Apparently on the HD's it affects the ABS system and while I don't think it does the same thing on Victory's; why take the chance. Humid climates especially are prone to getting moisture build-up in the fluid.

Harley-Davidson Is Recalling Nearly 251,000 Motorcycles Worldwide (175,000 US) Because The Brakes Might Fail

One comment at the article really caught my eye so I'm going to reprint it here with the person's moniker for education purposes even though it doesn't involve Victory's. This is good info regardless of what kind of bike one rides.

nomadmax
Feb 8th, 2018 at 6:48 am

This isn’t a “nanny state” or “owner neglect” issue, this is a poor engineering issue. I know, I know, hard to believe coming from HD. The ABS Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) is a pass thru system that does not cycle/test the mechanical valves on start up or even randomly. Consequently, when moisture gets into the required DOT 4 fluid it can corrode the valves inside the HCU causing them to close off the normal pass thru braking capability. When that happens there is a complete loss of braking (the lever or pedal freezes) on whichever circuit is affected (front or rear). There is no warning, no ABS light or code to alert the rider of a fault and it can happen while riding (and has) despite a pre-ride check of the brakes.

As most anyone knows, DOT 4 is glycol based and hygroscopic (it absorbs water); DOT 5 is silicone based and is not hygroscopic but isn’t suitable for ABS systems because of compress-ability and aeration. Something so commonly known should have been taken into consideration by HD’s engineering staff as a serious safety issue as this is the only ABS system on the planet that leaves the user with no residual braking when the ABS unit fails. Alas, we can’t just blame the engineers; some of the blame goes to the boardroom as the offending poorly designed HCU is a product of BWI, Beijing West Industries, a Chinese company that apparently doesn’t have to worry about product liability or user safety.

Many HCU units have failed even though the owners serviced or had their bikes serviced at the dealer following the required maintenance schedule. They were rewarded with a repair that cost just under a $1000.00 and the best part is the HCU was replaced with the same defective part, HD also made the repair parts “dealer only” so it wasn’t something the end user could source, that appears to be loosening up though.

Harley doesn’t deserve a break on this one for a few reasons. They cheaped out on something serious that leaves the rider with a complete loss of braking, that’s a big one, But what’s almost as bad is that they wanted to push it off as an owner neglect issue and wash their hands of it. Ultimately, this is going to cost them a bundle because brake flushes aren’t going to fix this and NHTSA isn’t going to let it go at that. Harley is going to realize a financial legacy that goes well beyond the money they saved on this poorly designed system.

As a Harley rider (who has not had an ABS failure) I hope it costs them a pile of money.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-08-2018, 07:19 PM
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This is a subject I have not seen discussed on this forum a lately; brake bleeding. For those new to Victory and/or motorcycling, you want to to a brake fluid flush - need just a bleed - no more than every two years. To make the task stupid simple and a one man show, install a set of Speed Bleeders. They are inexpensive - $7 each I think- and very easy to install - just screw 'em in. Use a freshly opened can of DOT4.
The numbers for Victorys are SB8125L (get 2 of these) and SB8125LL (get 1 of these for the left front caliper). I find it best to phone an order in so you get the correct ones. Here's their web site. Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-09-2018, 04:41 AM
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I bought one of these.


.

Bbob thanks for the reminder.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-09-2018, 05:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vindex1963 View Post
I bought one of these. Click.

Bbob thanks for the reminder.
That will work perfectly Vindex

Coz need to install double disks I bought this

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-09-2018, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vindex1963 View Post
I bought one of these. Click.

Bbob thanks for the reminder.
Have you used this yet? I'm wondering if you have to bleed the brakes the conventional way until the fluid gets past the one-way check valve so air doesn't get sucked back into the caliper.

It does look look like a nice alternative method. I wonder if filling the inlet end with fresh brake fluid would be a good idea...
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-09-2018, 11:07 AM
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I tried various devices like these and could never get a solid brake feel until I went to Speed Bleeders. My guess is air seeps by the threads of the OEM bleeder valves, but not the Speed Bleeders cuz they have a maguzelum on the treads that keep 'em sealed. With Speed Bleeders I now get rock hard brake levers and the job is so stupid simple. And I don't have to yell, "Honey, come help me."

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-09-2018, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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There's no question the Speed Bleeders are fast, easy, and they work which is fine if you only have one vehicle to do it on but if you have 3 or more; one of those one way valves with a hose would be more cost effective unless one knows they will be keeping a vehicle for many many years.

Nothing wrong with the old fashioned way either if you have someone who is competent to help; like with a car or truck. Most people can do a bike by themselves.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-09-2018, 03:14 PM
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I hated doing any brake line work on my cars or trucks...bikes and quads are fine and easy, spend the 20-35 bucks and get a bleeder that you can just hook up to a air compressor, or the super fancy ones that bleed the system in REVERSE.


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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-09-2018, 06:08 PM
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I am tall enough to do it by myself on the jackpot & CCT, but because of that checkvalve I bought it (hopefully) be even more easy than before... We will see...

Andre using TaPaTaLk

JACKPOT 2013 orange MADNESS :-) *HOH-VM1-DR*TachoMeter*PowCom-5*AutoTune*ATS*TorTube & (IAC) & nitro*Swept exhaust*LYNDALL & EBC brakes Front & Rear*Stainless Beads*Fwd Contr 4" *2 x Bad Boy Air Horn*Seven Color Lizard*NGK plugs*Blue Spark Plug Wir*Victory Oil*KN Oil filter*Oil Analysis*Clutch Cover*Kickst Repl Rubb*Invisble-A-Key*L.E.D. Batt. Gauge*Pulsating Brake Light*VictoryHID*Lice Bracket OVAL*BoltKit-Chrome*

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-09-2018, 06:37 PM
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Default mity vac

i am a fan of the mityvac as it works easily with one person on the various bikes i own-ed. no problem filling a bleeding a dry system either when i installed a second disc on my hammer. another little trick is tie back the lever-pedal overnight to expel any final air, tapping on the caliper is helpful as well.
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