i would have put a jumper across the terminals or measured to see if the relay is even getting 12 volts to fire up. if you put your finger on the relay you should feel it click when 12 volts is applied to the coil.
Ah, now there is some advice I could have used a few days ago. So if I unclip the fuse block and turn it over to the backside will I be able to access the terminals you're talking about from back there? I had that fuse block in my hands a few times but never really turned it over to examine the backside. I think I can get my hands on a meter to measure voltage, which wire coming out of the backside of that fuseblock should I be testing for 12 volts - and in the name of education - if it's anything under 12 volts, what would be causing that deficit, a weak stator or some other sort of voltage regulator device?
Do you have any advice on how one would go about cleaning the terminals inside a contact block like this? (fuse box). And when you say apply 12v across pins I presume you mean with the relay unplugged, or can that be done by poking leads into the backside of the block? I'm suddenly having visions of cracking open my battery compartment and fashioning alligator clip leads in the dirt.
The bike does not run, right?
Oh the bike runs beautifully - ONCE you hear the fuel pump initialize and prime itself. But until you get that sound all it's gonna do is crank and never fire.
Does it turn over when you hit the start button? Do you regularly use the kill switch to shut off the bike?
If your answers are no and yes. You most likely have a bad kill switch contact in the right switch cube
As said above, it'll crank (forever) but not fire when I hit the start button, and yes I use the kill switch all the time. Doesn't everyone? When you roll up to a stop and go to turn off your motor, how do you take your left hand off your clutch to turn the key unless you kill the motor first? And don't say shift into neutral because you know a Cross Country doesn't do that worth a damn