How many miles did you get outta your factory clutch? - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-23-2018, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Default How many miles did you get outta your factory clutch?

Just out of interest, as mines at 87,000 miles and still holding well in spite of a few dragstrip launches.
Just priced a new set of plates and about fell over $445 USD / $485 shipped to Aust.
Thats $656 Aust...
For a clutch "kit"....just talking to Paulie to see what a kit comprises, I only really want the plates.
Ok "kit" is steels and frictions, thats it...
Do guys,..what did you get outta your originals?
Throw some high numbers at me please so I can try to better them.
(Yeah I know I just spent $860 on race rubber and rims for the Buick)

Ok what did you get outta yr clutch.
People that maintain em I mean,
We all heard the horror stories of unmaintained clutches...

Victory Vegas 2010
Lloydz 109"cube big bore
" " 495 cams
" " TorqueTubes
" " timing wheel @4 deg.
" " Primary plate
" " IAV
RPW Slash pipes
PCV
Progressive 465 rear shock
Kingpin USD Forks
18" XC front wheel
1 3/4" 'Burleigh Bars'
Stebel air horn
12.106 @110.90mph
114/123

Victory Cross Country 2010 (106)
Lloyds air filter
" " VM1 Cams
Home gutted exhaust
Maximus
Both tuned by [email protected] Dyno
110/116

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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-23-2018, 06:45 PM
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On the Buells its about 30 K but that with the stock ball bearing plate. I think some people claim around 60k on other bikes. That's a lot of money for some fucking plates. I stuck a Barnett kit in mine for around $100. I would guess 40k on that for better fibers and no grenade plate. Sounds like a tariff or money exchange problem. You people need to revolt the Aus gov.

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Last edited by Bueller; 07-23-2018 at 06:48 PM.
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-23-2018, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bueller View Post
On the Buells its about 30 K but that with the stock ball bearing plate. I think some people claim around 60k on other bikes. That's a lot of money for some fucking plates. I stuck a Barnett kit in mine for around $100. I would guess 40k on that for better fibers and no grenade plate. Sounds like a tariff or money exchange problem. You people need to revolt the Aus gov.
Read my post again.
Note my miles that miles not kms
Note the USD price.
It you blokes that need the revolution.
Ok others with Victories
How many miles?
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Victory Vegas 2010
Lloydz 109"cube big bore
" " 495 cams
" " TorqueTubes
" " timing wheel @4 deg.
" " Primary plate
" " IAV
RPW Slash pipes
PCV
Progressive 465 rear shock
Kingpin USD Forks
18" XC front wheel
1 3/4" 'Burleigh Bars'
Stebel air horn
12.106 @110.90mph
114/123

Victory Cross Country 2010 (106)
Lloyds air filter
" " VM1 Cams
Home gutted exhaust
Maximus
Both tuned by [email protected] Dyno
110/116

Gold Coast
Australia
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-24-2018, 12:09 AM
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Default 57,000+ miles so far.

Motorbikerx still have the stocker in my XR with 57K+ miles. It does get a little grabby in the hot summers here in the desert. Have almost ordered the Barnett. Really can not afford it right now. Almost due for an oil change again maybe that will help, possibly. Just try to a keep as little freeplay in the clutch lever as possible. Also this summer I have got a small cooling fan running, blowing over the oil cooler and back onto the engine. Cooling fan only comes on when I have the brakes on, so sitting at the lights or stop signs it comes on via a relay. Little fan does seem to help some compared to last summer when I did not run one. One guy I know with a Vision actually has the clutch tool so when I do change out the clutch hopefully I can borrow it. Also the Barnett clutch steels will go in ether way, the factory Victory steels are directional from them stamping them out they have a lip on one side I heard, the Barnett steels are the same on both sides. Heard this from the guy who has the clutch tool. They actually called the Barnett factory and asked about the direction thing, guess it was in the manual. Oh yes a beautiful 115F in Arizona today. Tomorrow suppose to be a little warmer....oh boy.
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Buckeye, Arizona(USA) 2011 Victory Cross Roads, Black police bag guards, black engine guards, black handle bars, Triumph Tiger mirrors, Triumph hand grips, set speedo/tach back 5" , adjustable timing wheel, Lloyzz Fuel Programmer III & air filter. Modified exhaust, made stock into 2 into 1. MRA windshield, Rotated front fender forward,relocated ignition switch, Bad Ace Fuel Tank Risers, Fat front tire.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-24-2018, 06:59 AM
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Not sure of the exact millage, But I have done mine twice and need to do it this week. The factory set worked fine until I did the RLaP course. After class #4 it began to slip on the way home. #2 factory plates failed on the way home from a ProRider class. #3 Barnett plates worked fine for about 4 years but failed after Pro Rider class #2 which I did about a month ago. I needed to adjust it twice after class as it was obvious that the free play was getting small. The new set will be Barnett again. I have 130,800 miles now.
What a ride back from the National Victory Rally in Grayling MI. It had slipped a few times during hard acceleration on the rally rides. It was adjusted properly so I knew the plates were toasted. I had a few minor slips on the ride back, but approaching the Cumberland Gap area we were doing about 85-90 through the mountains and it began to slip badly. The last 200 miles, out of 850, if got worse and I had to keep going slower to keep it from slipping. When I got off the interstate I was down to about 50 in 4th gear and had to watch the tach closely to avoid slipping. I took the least hilly roads from the interstate knowing there is one nasty hill on my unmaintained dirt road which could be a problem. All gears were slipping by then.
I approached the hill in 1st at about 25 mph and she felt like a bucking bronco going up, but she did it. YAY! The new plates will be here by the weekend.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-24-2018, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedblue View Post
Just try to a keep as little freeplay in the clutch lever as possible.
Free play is measured with the clutch lever at rest. Do not minimize free play as this makes it more likely to slip.
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-24-2018, 08:08 AM
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53,000 on stock clutch with Easy Pull for the last 45,000. Ride easy. Only one really hard launch. Travel two up with luggage 80% of the time. Clutch is still solid. Over the last 45 years I've learned how to make clutches last, for the most part, the life of the bikes I've owned.

2013 Victory XCT. Lakewood, CA

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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-24-2018, 08:37 AM
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I mentioned this in another thread somewhere but when my bike is cold, I can get a squeal out of the clutch that sounds like a tire squeal when pulling away from a stop light during the first mile or so. Only coming from a stop. When the bike warms up, it doesn't happen unless I REALLY pull hard from a stop. It's not very loud, but you can hear it. Bike has 44,300 miles.

What are the symptoms of a bad clutch? I was tossing around the idea of putting Barnett plates in there for about $140. Alto Red Eagle also makes some for about $105 shipped. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alto-Red-Ea...9/302440746346



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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-24-2018, 09:19 AM
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When you think about it, mileage has nothing to do with the life of a clutch. How many times you use it and how well you use it is a truer measurement of its life span.

I don't ride in the city so I'm shifting a lot less than someone who needs to spend time in stop and go traffic for a good part of their trip on their way to the highway. They are possibly shifting at slow speeds and slipping every couple of minutes. Those of us on the highway are possibly shifting a couple of times an hour and at speed.

If you spend a lot of time in the city and need to be able to turn 20 foot circles for some reason then you're going to go through clutches. The police type riding sessions are good for those guys but how many of us really spend 100% of our time in slow tight situations. Cops do and need to practice but realize, they don't pay for their clutches. I helped with the setup of a police rodeo and there were more than a couple of clutch problems. Voluntary, but it's still abuse (or rough use if you prefer) of the parts so they will go through more.

Also, we all know that there are people out there who just do a bad job at shifting properly or getting up to speed from a stop. I don't see much of that because of where I ride but I certainly see, and hear it when in car around town. You can't measure the clutch's life span when abuse is a factor.

You might be able to use mileage as a reference for discussions but it's not anything to base expectations on.

PS. Symptoms of a bad clutch - noise, juddering, revving under load or similar problems when the clutch is properly adjusted.

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Last edited by 53canuck; 07-24-2018 at 04:45 PM.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-24-2018, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 53canuck View Post
When you think about it, mileage has nothing to do with the life of a clutch. How many times you use it and how well you use it is a truer measurement of its life span.

I don't ride in the city so I'm shifting a lot less than someone who needs to spend time in stop and go traffic for a good part of their trip on their way to the highway. They are possibly shifting at slow speeds and slipping every couple of minutes. Those of us on the highway are possibly shifting a couple of times an hour and at speed.

If you spend a lot of time in the city and need to be able to turn 20 foot circles for some reason then you're going to go through clutches. The police type riding sessions are good for those guys but how many of us really spend 100% of our time in slow tight situations. Cops do and need to practice but realize, they don't pay for their clutches. I helped with the setup of a police rodeo and there were more than a couple of clutch problems. Voluntary, but it's still abuse (or rough use if you prefer) of the parts so they will go through more.

Also, we all know that there are people out there who just do a bad job at shifting properly or getting up to speed from a stop. I don't see much of that because of where I ride but I certainly see, and hear it when in car around town. You can't measure the clutch's life span when abuse it the factor.

You might be able to use mileage as a reference for discussions but it's not anything to base expectations on.

PS. Symptoms of a bad clutch - noise, juddering, revving under load or similar problems when the clutch is properly adjusted.
My clutch is fine at 87,000 miles, just thinking ahead It obviously wont last forever, just need some ideas on it...
I dont do all the circle work clutch slipping, I ride for pleasure, Im not hard on the clutch, its in or out most of the time.

What are the Alto Red Eagle clutches like?
Also wonder if my Barnett Scorpion plates might fit the stock clutch?

Victory Vegas 2010
Lloydz 109"cube big bore
" " 495 cams
" " TorqueTubes
" " timing wheel @4 deg.
" " Primary plate
" " IAV
RPW Slash pipes
PCV
Progressive 465 rear shock
Kingpin USD Forks
18" XC front wheel
1 3/4" 'Burleigh Bars'
Stebel air horn
12.106 @110.90mph
114/123

Victory Cross Country 2010 (106)
Lloyds air filter
" " VM1 Cams
Home gutted exhaust
Maximus
Both tuned by [email protected] Dyno
110/116

Gold Coast
Australia

Last edited by Motorbikerx; 07-24-2018 at 10:34 AM.
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