I have a 2007 Ness Jackpot. My fast idle lever hasn't worked since I bought the bike used in 2011. I can see the cable wire isn't broken because it moves something underneath the gas tank when operated. What is the easiest way to adjust it to get it working? I have braided steel cables if that effects anything.
Are you turning the bars all the way to the left when you are using it? I know I've read in the past that the bars need to be turned all the way to the left in order for it to work. Supposedly is some sort of safety feature.
2011 CROSS COUNTRY CORY NESS SIGNATURE SERIES #205
2007 STAGE 1 HAMMER S (TRADED)
Best thing i could think of since no one has chimmed in would be to take the tank off and watch that cable to see where it goes and what it should be moving, since youre there anyway, scrub your throttle body out, two birds one stone
Bob Dron Fairing
Dakota Digital Tach
L.E.D. Tail Light
Stage 1 Shotgun Pipes
1/4 Turn Throttle
I had the same issue when I got my Hammer. Its easy to adjust, but the tank has to come off to reach the adjustor nut. There will be two nuts u can adjust that are next to each other. One is throttle play and one is the fast idle lever. Like kneilsen said, once the tank is off, play with the lever to identify which is which. Then when you go to adjust it, make sure to leave a little free play before the lever actually begins to crack the throttle body open. I think factory spec is around 1/4 inch free play. Its not difficult though, as long as you're not scared of wrenches.
Yep, pulling the tank to do the adjustment is the only thing that makes this remotely tough. Have a helper. Be careful of the bottom fuel nipple and wiring. Note the path of the tank vent(s). Having the bike on a jack or locking wheel chock is a plus. As is being nearly out of fuel.
When you get through, warm up the bike and verify rpm is not too high (1500 to 3000 is the spec for my 04 KP) with the bars cocked hard left and the fast idle on all the way. Then turn the fast idle lever to minimum and verify idle does not change as you rock the forks back and forth from lock to lock.
Removing slack gives you faster idle. The spec is 3 to 6 mm (1/8" to 1/4") slack for my 04 KP. But idle response is more important than slack measurement.
It would seem that they leave the slack near the max (lower fast idle speeds) from the factory, to ensure it does not get too fast after break in. Mine would barely cause any idle increase, and then only with the bars at the left lock.