Fork it, fork oil change of XRs type. - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-26-2014, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
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Default Fork it, fork oil change of XRs type.

Finally changed the fork oil today on my XRs. A little over the 15K the book recommends, have almost 17K. Was kind of leary of doing the fork oil , it was the first time doing the upside down style forks for me. Have done all my other bikes with the old fashioned style forks. Yes very time consuming, but not as bad as I thought it might be. Started out right, had forgot the correct size tool for the front axle at work.........Looked for one at home,no tool. Then I looked for a bolt that would fit, did not have that either. So I figured I run to Ace Hardware and get the correct tool, no luck they did not have one in stock. Went to the hardware section. Looked for a bolt that would fit. I was going to get a bolt and two nuts to lock together to slip into the axle the help remove it from the fork. I jut happened to look down and found the extra long nuts, about 1.5" long, I believe it is 7/16" I.D. for threads or about 5/8" O.D. or ruffly 16mm. I put that into the axle and put a socket & rachet on there an remove the axle, also used with a socket and torque wrench it install the axle into the fork. After I was finished with the job I through my new extra long nut into my tool bag and into the saddlebag on the bike, a low cost axle tool, cool. I believe it cost me $1.65, this seems to be one thing that worked out good and cheap...... Now since I had ther forks off I figured might as well repack the steering stem bearings. I knew from pictures in the manual the bottom bearing was a tapered roller bearing,but the top I did not know what it really had. Well the top bearing is a sealed ball bearing, just like a wheel bearing. So I cleaned the lower bearing and repacked it with grease. The top sealed bearing I was careful and peeled out the top seal. I packed grease into the top bearing and re-installed the seal. One interesting thing that I did find that I really did not care for was the lower bearing seal, it is sealed on the lower side which is good, good move Victory. Now I looked into the bottom of the frame to clean out the race and inspect it. When I inspected the lower race I was looking up and I could see right up and out past the engine air filter. The top side of the bearing IS exposed to open air by way of the air intake, not a good move Victory IMO. No the old grease was not supper dirty, but I could see it getting very diry especially if you travel dirt roads often. Next time I do it I may go ahead and spray some expanding spray foam inside of the frame to seal off the neck of the frame. I know this might seam like overkill but to me they should have sealed it off. Also I was thinking I could use like an empty toilet paper roll in the area of the steering stem to keep the foam out of that area. Well I have 15,000 miles to think about it. I know just don't worry about it. Well put the bike back together and now she feels better, new oil an grease up front so it will ride better than new, ha,ha.

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post #2 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-27-2014, 06:00 AM
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Good write up and some good information. One thing most don't realize is how bad their front suspension is getting because it is so gradual. I am probably a year or more out before mine needs it but I will probably attempt it myself.

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post #3 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-27-2014, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedblue View Post
Finally changed the fork oil today on my XRs.
How did you fill the forks? Did you go by the book or just add half a bottle of oil to each leg? Seems like one would need several special tools to do it by the book.

What kind of fluid did you use? One of my Vic dealers didn't have the Vic brand/viscosity. He said he only orders fluids from Victory once every 6 months and then said it was going to be ~$40 if I wanted to wait. I went to the other dealer who had it on the shelf for ~$11.

Was getting at the bearings reasonably easy? I've read that sometimes getting them out can be a bear.




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post #4 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-27-2014, 12:23 PM
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If you ever need bearings go to a bearings store with the old ones. You can get a better quality bearing for same price or less.
On a cross bikes bearings are easy to get at. Not sure if the top nut is a castle nut or a normal nut.

Do not fill the frame cavity with any thing you will cut off air flow to FI's

Fork oil should last for fifty thousand miles. The only reason it would go bad is cause of condensation.

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post #5 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-27-2014, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Default method, oil

Well I have done several other bikes in the past. So on those I always used a cc cup or a mix ratio cup you get for mixing 2-stroke oil with gas. I know the manual says to remove the springs using special tool #---xyz. Do I have the special tool, noooooooo. I unscrewed the nut on top which at the same time turns the bottom of the fork leg,so take the axle out and remove the wheel first. The top cap on the fork leg is only torqued according to the manual to a max of 22-ft. lbs.. I had broke the cap loose from the fork while the fork was still clamped with the bottom tree, but I had loosened the bolt(removed it) from the top tree. Removed the fork legs. Unscewed the caps and dumped the old fork oil out. I did not take the springs apart from the cap or remove the springs. I put the legs tilting down into a oil pan and placed it all out in the good old Az sun to warm them up and help the oil drain better. While the fork legs drained I took the steering trees apart. When I filled the fork legs the book says you have to remove the springs and use the special oil level tool which again I do not have. I filled the cc cup up. Shop manual says each leg holds 481cc of fork oil , that is dry. I did let each leg drain for quite some time. I filled the cc cup up to 475cc and slowly poured it into the legs by letting it run down the springs into the legs. Then I worked the leg up and down a few times and then, it suppose help get the air out and installed the cap. I did not use Victory oil. I used Amsoil synthetic for oil #10, the stuff looks as thin as water. I used it before in my Triumph. Amsoil sells a #5 really thin, and a #10( a little thicker) for oil. No I am not a dealer, just like the products and it is easy to get, order on line. I do the "preferred customer" deal they have and it saves me a little money. Also no the oil did not cost me $40, it was much less. I bought two bottles, did not need it, so now I have one for next time. I like to have extra oil around also in case I spill some in the process which as we know never ever happens to any of us,ha,ha. One draw back is they do charge shipping so I usually order oil for bikes , or our car, had a truck it got ripped off,no more oil changes for it...... I know the method I used to do the fork oil is not completely by the book, but it worked for me.----VJ +1 on going to a bearing house/store. I bought some bearings for my Triumph and it saved me over half of the dealer cost. Also the frame is open from the steering stem back to the air filter intake. The air filter closes off the cavity of course to the fuel injection or intake manifold. I was suggesting sealing off the area just behind the steering stem bearing area, just an ideal and of course not sealing it close to the air instake filter at all so the filter would still get plenty of air. I just do not care for the fact that dirt can get in on the lower bearing through the intake area for the engine air filter. With the steering stem out of the frame you can see daylight from the bottom bearing over to the air intake for the engine air filter, nothing sealing it off on the XRs anyway. Do plan on taking your time doing this if you decide to do it, my wife was not happy that I spent so much time on it, but she was happy I did not spend the $$$ at the dealer.

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post #6 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-27-2014, 03:50 PM
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Thanks for posting that procedure Speed, you gave me the incentive to want to do that myself, maybe next winter. I too have doubted that the springs had to be removed. That's an interesting steering head bearing arrangement, I must add. Now I know what to look for in there.
Re the oil level....If memory serves, the manual calls for using a depth gauge device. Cycle Gear (the Harbor Freight of the bike world) has them for a very affordable price. I think I'll wait for a sale and get one to prepare for that project.
Too bad there is no drain plug at the bottom of the forks. Why not?

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post #7 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-27-2014, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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Default Depth gauge

Years ago I never heard of a depth gauge device. Always changed the fork oil with out it before. It worked for me before. So if the seals go out and yes I have to change the seals I will probably go and get the correct tool. Then I will feel more like Bill Nye the Science Guy. Sorry may have gotten his name wrong, ha, ha. .... The tool is cool and I am sure it helps to measure much more to spec.

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post #8 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-27-2014, 05:01 PM
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For those without the tools, here is a link to a bunch of homemade tools. They aren't for victories necessarily, but you can adapt them to the victory. Post #15
http://www.tlplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79088

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post #9 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-27-2014, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
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Thanks for posting that procedure Speed
+1

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Too bad there is no drain plug at the bottom of the forks. Why not?
Actually, if you watch the Witchdoctor video there is. You need an extension, but with the axle out you could remove those bolts and pump the cartridge and let it drain in a bowl without removing them from their clamps. Witchdoctor did remove them from the clamps in his video, but he also showed how to rebuild them with new innards which does require them to come off.

WD didn't show how he added the fluid either, but I suspect he did something similar to Speedblue.

The goofiest thing about the whole job is that the Vic fork oil for our Cross bikes comes in a 1 quart container. 1 quart is 946 ml. As Speedblue noted, the amount spec'd for each for is 481 +/-3ml. Half a quart is only 473 ml. Errrrr




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post #10 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-27-2014, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
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Thanks for posting that procedure Speed, you gave me the incentive to want to do that myself, maybe next winter. I too have doubted that the springs had to be removed. That's an interesting steering head bearing arrangement, I must add. Now I know what to look for in there.
Re the oil level....If memory serves, the manual calls for using a depth gauge device. Cycle Gear (the Harbor Freight of the bike world) has them for a very affordable price. I think I'll wait for a sale and get one to prepare for that project.
Too bad there is no drain plug at the bottom of the forks. Why not?
There is a 6mm allen with brass washer in the bottom of forks. The only way you can get at it is when the axle is out. Loosen it before you take top nut off or you'll never get it loose. #12
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