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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
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Default Completly stock bike?

If I was to buy a 2014 Cross Roads and leave everything stock to include the emmissions, can I expect a good reliable motorcycle to last the 100,000-200,000 miles that some claim? Or are they set up so bad with emmissions, that you have really no choice to modify?




What would the Victory stage 1 do for the bike? Thanks
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 08:01 AM
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It runs just fine out of the box. You can expect many many miles of reliable operation. No one can guarantee you will never have a problem. But there are lots of Vic's out there that are stock with over 100,000 miles. It depends largely on how you maintain and ride it, just like any other motorcycle. You should have no worries about leaving it stock. In fact, some would argue that stock will be most reliable.

'14 Ness XC
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 08:40 AM
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mine is stock except for unplugged o2 sensors. 15000 miles
of fun so far. probably wont ever reach 100,000 miles .
i'll be two old. or i'll have to tryke it. not being modified
hasnt taken away the fun factor for us. to each his own.
even though 5000 mile oil changes are the norm i oil
and filter at 3000 miles. just me.

2011 cross roads, crimson red, speedo reflash,
forged bars,bag bars,tach,driver and pass backrest[vic]
vic luggage rack and lowers,iso grips,2" pullbacks
hard bags,xc adj pass footrests, color keyed side
chin fairings. 7 jurock custom made windshield.
ultimate seat, hid low beams, timing wheel back in,
and of course, a ric z laydown license bracket.[5
mph faster].

Last edited by irv; 06-11-2014 at 10:44 AM.
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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 09:41 AM
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I would AT LEAST put a PC5 on it and tune it on a dyno. Your fuel delivery will be spot on then and you will at least know you are not lean or rich. The real benefit will show as a cooler better running motor because of this. Honey is considering an XC and doesn't want the noise and feels there's plenty of performance out of the box. The PC5 and tune will be all that we do to hers. Again Its all about the fuel delivery with these stock bikes. They are too lean and run too hot. A fuel tune will make the best difference if you are leaving everything else stock.

2011 Cross Country. D&D's wrapped - VM1DR cams - PC5 - LLoyds high performance filter and ATS (Adjustable Timing system). Power output 115HP/115FTLBS tuned by KMC. Klock Werks flip shield - RF/PBR300x4 amp - Hertz HCX 6.5's - Victory 6X9 Magnum Lids - Victory XM - HMD Black Pull Backs with Victory performance grips. PIAA Led3 driving lights. accessories from Arlen ness - Witch Doctors - Noemtz Designs - Kuryakyn. Blacked out treatment powder Coat by PPC Stuart fl.
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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 09:53 AM
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For a fuel controller that works just as well as the PCV I recommend the Dobeck AFR+ Gen4, you don't have to waste money on a dyno tune and it allows you to have some real time adjustability that the PCV does not give you.

For example you are going on a long ride someplace and you want the best fuel economy, just adjust the air/fuel ratio for the cruise mode to a leaner setting and you get better fuel economy while knowing you are not harming the engine because you have an air/fuel ratio gauge showing you the reading.

Want more performance after you arrive to your destination? Simple, again all you do is adjust the air/fuel ratio for the cruise mode to a richer setting and you get better performance while again knowing you are not harming the engine because you have an air/fuel ratio gauge showing you the reading.

No expensive dyno time, no expensive add on auto tune device like a PCV requires and the best part is the Dobeck AFR+ Gen4 is easy to use as it is not complicated at all.

Last edited by Victory 1; 06-11-2014 at 09:57 AM.
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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irv View Post
mine is stock except for unplugged o2 sensors. 15000 miles
of fun so far. probably wont ever reach ch 100,000 miles .
i'll be two old. or i'll have to tryke it. not being modified
hasnt taken away the fun factor for us. to each his own.
even though 5000 mile oil changes are the norm i oil
and filter at 3000 miles. just me.
What improvement did disconnecting the o2 sensors make? Will the stock ECM handle it?

And...any chance of seeing a pic of that custom windshield ?

Ron
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irv View Post
probably wont ever reach ch 100,000 miles .
i'll be two old. or i'll have to tryke it..
C'mon Irv, aren't I being a good enough role model to you kids? A group I ride with likes it when I lead cuz I don't slow down in the twisties and I'm pushing 80. A friend is 89 and he still does LD events. He's my role model. Take every opportunity to ride and those 100K will happen before ya know it. Pretty wife and I celebrate that event beside the road with a 100 Grand candy bar.

2010 Midnight Cherry XR. 7Jurock, Lloydz AF, ATS, AFR tuned VFCIII, IAV, and T-6 and locally repacked pipes = big smiles. SOLD to a dear friend, so it's still in the family."
2017 Spyder F3 Limited - keeps this old guy in the wind and riding with friends.
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 10:42 AM
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80 mph through the twisties.what a wild ass!
hope these pics come through.shield bigger than the picture.
to bad there is no dyno at a vic dealer anywhere close.
as far as the dobeck, id probably screw it up.
pics were taken inside. best i can do.
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File Type: jpg 006.jpg (43.9 KB, 14 views)

2011 cross roads, crimson red, speedo reflash,
forged bars,bag bars,tach,driver and pass backrest[vic]
vic luggage rack and lowers,iso grips,2" pullbacks
hard bags,xc adj pass footrests, color keyed side
chin fairings. 7 jurock custom made windshield.
ultimate seat, hid low beams, timing wheel back in,
and of course, a ric z laydown license bracket.[5
mph faster].

Last edited by irv; 06-11-2014 at 10:45 AM.
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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 10:51 AM
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OK, truth be told Irv...when the sign for the curve sez 10MPH, I slow down to 70.

2010 Midnight Cherry XR. 7Jurock, Lloydz AF, ATS, AFR tuned VFCIII, IAV, and T-6 and locally repacked pipes = big smiles. SOLD to a dear friend, so it's still in the family."
2017 Spyder F3 Limited - keeps this old guy in the wind and riding with friends.
Cure that ugly stand up license plate with the cheapest and best laydown bracket. Click this:
https://www.victoryforums.com/11-ven...t-x-bikes.html
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Victory 1 View Post
For a fuel controller that works just as well as the PCV I recommend the Dobeck AFR+ Gen4, you don't have to waste money on a dyno tune and it allows you to have some real time adjustability that the PCV does not give you.

For example you are going on a long ride someplace and you want the best fuel economy, just adjust the air/fuel ratio for the cruise mode to a leaner setting and you get better fuel economy while knowing you are not harming the engine because you have an air/fuel ratio gauge showing you the reading.

Want more performance after you arrive to your destination? Simple, again all you do is adjust the air/fuel ratio for the cruise mode to a richer setting and you get better performance while again knowing you are not harming the engine because you have an air/fuel ratio gauge showing you the reading.

No expensive dyno time, no expensive add on auto tune device like a PCV requires and the best part is the Dobeck AFR+ Gen4 is easy to use as it is not complicated at all.
I can't speak on the dobeck at all, never even heard of it until now but what you're saying about the pcv really isn't true.

1) dyno adjustment isn't "needed" but it is a good idea to make sure the fuel curves are exactly right
2) The pcv IS user adjustable
3) The autotune is not necessary unless you want a "custom" map without going to a dyno. Once you have a map the autotune serves no purpose unless you change something in the powertrain
4) user adjustment isn't needed once it's properly mapped because the maps take into account throttle position allowing you to have full power and best fuel economy all at the same time.

to explain 4 a bit more: When cruising or going long distance it's a safe bet that you'll be mostly using the lower half of your throttle range, 2-up and/or with luggage maybe a bit more. A good dyno guy can build you a map that keeps the a/f as lean as is safe at throttle positions up to say 50-60%. When max power is desired it's a good bet you're going to be full throttle or near to it. That same good dyno guy can build the rest of the map (70-100% throttle) at the correct ratio to make the most power. So you've got fuel economy all the time, and max power all the time eliminating the need for adjustment before and after a trip.

I'm not advocating one product over the other, just making sure correct information is conveyed.

2013 Cross Roads LE

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