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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Default Drag racing tips

Hey ya'll. I have a 2013 HB that I plan on trying to drag race for kicks. I was wondering if anyone that has done it has any suggestions for me. Tire type, length of burnout, how they launch, shift points and anything else I'm not thinking of. Its only an 1/8 mile track here so all I need is a helmet and a leather jacket!

My neighbor races a 69 Camero. I went with him the other weekend and there were a bunch of bikes running. I thought I can do that! Planning on givin it a whirl over the 4th!

Gunna have a hell of a time beating that dude that had a zx-14 running in the 5 seconds off a .003 light...

If this is fun and I can do alright I may have to consider and air shifter and some nitrous....

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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-12-2014, 12:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fargoben67 View Post
Hey ya'll. I have a 2013 HB that I plan on trying to drag race for kicks. I was wondering if anyone that has done it has any suggestions for me. Tire type, length of burnout, how they launch, shift points and anything else I'm not thinking of. Its only an 1/8 mile track here so all I need is a helmet and a leather jacket!

My neighbor races a 69 Camero. I went with him the other weekend and there were a bunch of bikes running. I thought I can do that! Planning on givin it a whirl over the 4th!

Gunna have a hell of a time beating that dude that had a zx-14 running in the 5 seconds off a .003 light...

If this is fun and I can do alright I may have to consider and air shifter and some nitrous....


I was told to shift no higher than 4800 on my CC.

That is where the rev limiter first begins to soften the acceleration.
VIC doesn't use a hard limiter like some manufacturers that you can run up and bounce off of. Theirs comes in progressively.
By redline the motor has no torque.
Shifting at 4800 should give you what you want.

That's the limit of what I can tell you other than have fun.
Also some tracks and events will require a Snell approved helmet and often a certain year of approval. Others are more lax. Depends on their insurance company. Best call ahead rather than be disappointed.
If you do nitrous keep the plumbing as short as possible between the nozzle and the valve. Your motor will thank you for it.

Good luck to you and have fun.

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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-12-2014, 07:27 AM
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The stock tire should be sufficient. Maybe drop a few PSI from standard to start. As for the burnout, just until you begin to see smoke. No reason for a smoke show with a stock tire. It will only make it greasy.

Good luck. Any like Joe said, check on the Snell requirements. Any track that is NHRA sanctioned will require a Snell M2005 at least I believe, may even be M2010 now.

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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-12-2014, 07:31 AM
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My advice is to go into it with the intention of having fun and don't worry about your times. I'm not saying a victory can't get up and go but honestly, my girlfriend's ninja 650 is faster off the line than my cross country. Yes it has lots of torque but the vic is a heavy bike, plain and simple.

As for the launch itself. I drag race a minimum of 5 times every race weekend (from the start line into t1) and so far my starts have been pretty damn good. First thing you need to know is exactly where and how long your power band is, this is critical to a good launch. A dyno chart is the only real way to get this but in a pinch there are apps for you phone that will give you a reasonable estimate to get you started. At the line either keep both feet on the ground (my preference) or right foot down, left foot ready for the upshift. In gear, rev the motor to the midpoint of your power band and hold it there. Let the clutch out so the bike is trying to pull forward but use your feet (foot) to keep it in place so you don't get a false start. When the light goes green feather the clutch out while feeding more and more throttle. The idea is to keep the motor speed constant while the clutch is being released. By the time the clutch is all the way out it will be time to shift so as soon as you start moving get your left foot under the lever and preload it. Hold the throttle WFO while you snap the clutch in and dump it back out, the preload on your shift lever should get you into second. Repeat as needed until you cross the line. Remember, the BEST launch is the one that keeps the front tire about 1-2" off the ground. Less than that and you're not on it as hard as you could be (or you don't have enough power to lift it). More than that and you're wasting power lifting the tire instead of moving forward.

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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-12-2014, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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What kind of times and speeds are you guys running? Also, if the motor gets hot, will a light come on to let me know?


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Torque Tube intake - VFCIII - Hacker Lake Pipes - Lloydz PTS set at +4 - Blinkers and License plate holder stripped - Side mount plate
2008 Kawasaki Vulcan 500 (for her)
2008 Suzuki Boulevard M50 (miss it)
1989 Kawasaki Ninja 500 (RIP)


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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-12-2014, 12:37 PM
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For one you better get rid of those ape hangers and get some clips ons that will give you some control over the front end.... past the traps!!!

Secondly (for fun) yes just try less air psi in the rear tire for better grip. maybe about 20-25 psi, start high and drop a lb each time to see how it feels. The burn out - just get it spinning and let it take you from there till you feel it grab. dont let it just sit there and burn rubber up..... obviously the shorter the grab distance is what you want and that will be your best tire psi.

if your gonna do this regularly, get another wheel and drag slick or just an old tire and have it shaved.... works good and alot less cost!

Safety gear - full leather jacket, pants, gloves is usually min requirement and snell fullface 2005/2010 helmet

I ran a Kaway KZ900 for a couple years way back when.... at Fremont Raceway (if that tells you how long ago) and had an absolute blast with it. Got into the 9's, fastest ever ran was a 9.27 at 147mph ---- that was fast enough for me!

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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-12-2014, 04:11 PM
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I'm getting keen to throw the big girl down the track to, we've got an excellent 1/4 mile strip here in QLD.
I know she's big & heavy but i'm keen to see what kind of times she gets.
I am curious to find people's impressions of the super sticky tracks - our local strip has some coating and i've been told everyone tippy toes up to the start line. Makes me very nervous on how much to give it until you've already been down a few times!

I'll throw up my impressions once i've had a couple of trips down the fast lane..

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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-13-2014, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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What do you guys think of shifting without the clutch?


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2013 Highball (for me)
Torque Tube intake - VFCIII - Hacker Lake Pipes - Lloydz PTS set at +4 - Blinkers and License plate holder stripped - Side mount plate
2008 Kawasaki Vulcan 500 (for her)
2008 Suzuki Boulevard M50 (miss it)
1989 Kawasaki Ninja 500 (RIP)


Never underestimate the power of stupid people in numbers.
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-13-2014, 12:48 PM
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I would try to get hold of Half-Crazy, he races his bike quite often. If my heavy ass XR had some engine work, fuel controller, etc. I would probably run it a few times. I live just a few miles from Thundervalley and usually go out and watch the crotchrockets and street glides run when I get a chance.

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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-13-2014, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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You done need that stuff if its bracket racing. You could race a 50cc scooter if ya want!

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2013 Highball (for me)
Torque Tube intake - VFCIII - Hacker Lake Pipes - Lloydz PTS set at +4 - Blinkers and License plate holder stripped - Side mount plate
2008 Kawasaki Vulcan 500 (for her)
2008 Suzuki Boulevard M50 (miss it)
1989 Kawasaki Ninja 500 (RIP)


Never underestimate the power of stupid people in numbers.
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