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post #1 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-26-2011, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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Default added a tuner

Added the tuner today and the vented side cover on the airbox.. This bike runs hard!!! I'm surprised every time I twist the throttle. Already had performance slip on mufflers.

2015 Cross Country (bought new 7/11/15)
2015 Suzuki V-Strom DL650 (bought new 4/26/17)
2006 Triumph Rocket III Classic
1/4 turn throttle ring
Tank riser
VM-1 DR cams
Timing wheel +4
Lloydz high-flow air cleaner
Bassani baffled OEM mufflers
PC-V 118hp 116tq
If it's not broke, make it better
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post #2 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 06:49 AM
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Congrats!!! What tuner did you go with?

Now all you need is cams!!!

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2008 Softail Deluxe - Black/Copper (SOLD)
2005 Victory Kingpin - Black (SOLD) :(
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post #3 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 05:34 PM
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You did get the bike dyno tuned with the programmer correct?

2007 Hammer, 260 Metz, Shotgun exhaust, S3 cams, LED hidden turn signals, HID Hi/lo headlights, a few Ness accessories, S&S intake, PC3, and dyno tune.

Build/tuning by WFO Motorsports

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post #4 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigseadaddy View Post
Congrats!!! What tuner did you go with?

Now all you need is cams!!!
Naaa my bike is a daily rider being my primary transportation so I'm keeping the internals factory.
I added this tuner.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PlowTown Missile View Post
You did get the bike dyno tuned with the programmer correct?
No why would I get a dyno tune for that tuner and mufflers?? Seems way excessive.
The bike did have a slight surging at 65-75mph cruising that's now gone.
I'm going to pull the plugs when it cools to see how it looks.
The bike pulls like a freight train. I'm shocked when I twist it!!!

2015 Cross Country (bought new 7/11/15)
2015 Suzuki V-Strom DL650 (bought new 4/26/17)
2006 Triumph Rocket III Classic
1/4 turn throttle ring
Tank riser
VM-1 DR cams
Timing wheel +4
Lloydz high-flow air cleaner
Bassani baffled OEM mufflers
PC-V 118hp 116tq
If it's not broke, make it better
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post #5 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 05:57 PM
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Seems pretty basic from the manual:

TUNING
We suggest that you set your pots to the setting that best matches your bikes modification. Further
adjustments can be made by first having your bike fully warmed up. Then with a screwdriver in hand,
locate the green light and the pot right below it. Raise the RPM up to a high idle or about 1800-RPM if
you have a Tach. Once there, slowly turn the green pot clockwise from the 1:00 position (or off) until you
achieve the highest RPM and smoothest running sound (just like you would if you had a mixture screw on
a carburetor). You should find that the best setting is between 2:30 and 4:30.
Next locate the yellow light and the pot below it. This pot adjustment acts as an accelerator pump
adjustment. Anytime you see the light on, it means that this pot is adding fuel. You will notice that you
can take the RPM slowly up to 3000-4000 in neutral and see no yellow light. But whack the throttle wide
open
quickly and you see the yellow light come on. Try to add as much as you can until the bike says it is
too much then back off two clock positions. This yellow pot adds most of its fuel below 4000 RPM and
full throttle acceleration.
The red light pot is your for main jet. It adds about 5 points of a main jet for every clock position.
Example: one clock position is the same as 170 to 175 main jet. All we can say about setting up this pot is
use the base setting that comes closest to your bikes modifications. Then use the same method you used,
setting up your carbureted bikes.

2008 Victory Vegas 8-Ball
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post #6 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vindex1963 View Post
No why would I get a dyno tune for that tuner and mufflers?? Seems way excessive.
The bike did have a slight surging at 65-75mph cruising that's now gone.
I'm going to pull the plugs when it cools to see how it looks.
The bike pulls like a freight train. I'm shocked when I twist it!!!
Because you have absolutely no clue what your air/fuel ratio is. That tuner only enriches the mixture, it does not lean it out. You don't know if your bike is already rich in some parts of the rpm band and you may be making it worse.

Go to a reputable dyno tuner with a wideband O2 sensor and have them dyno tune it before you damage your engine anymore than you may already have. Pray your base tune isn't overly rich already before you get there and won't need a Power Commander 3 to lean out the a/f ratio.

The only way to put a tuner on a Victory and just call it good without a dyno tune with a wideband O2 is if you have a 2008+ bike and the tuner is a Power Commander 5 with AutoTune.

2007 Hammer, 260 Metz, Shotgun exhaust, S3 cams, LED hidden turn signals, HID Hi/lo headlights, a few Ness accessories, S&S intake, PC3, and dyno tune.

Build/tuning by WFO Motorsports

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Last edited by PlowTown Missile; 12-27-2011 at 06:15 PM.
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post #7 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jebz240 View Post
Seems pretty basic from the manual:

TUNING
We suggest that you set your pots to the setting that best matches your bikes modification. Further
adjustments can be made by first having your bike fully warmed up. Then with a screwdriver in hand,
locate the green light and the pot right below it. Raise the RPM up to a high idle or about 1800-RPM if
you have a Tach. Once there, slowly turn the green pot clockwise from the 1:00 position (or off) until you
achieve the highest RPM and smoothest running sound (just like you would if you had a mixture screw on
a carburetor). You should find that the best setting is between 2:30 and 4:30.
Next locate the yellow light and the pot below it. This pot adjustment acts as an accelerator pump
adjustment. Anytime you see the light on, it means that this pot is adding fuel. You will notice that you
can take the RPM slowly up to 3000-4000 in neutral and see no yellow light. But whack the throttle wide
open
quickly and you see the yellow light come on. Try to add as much as you can until the bike says it is
too much then back off two clock positions. This yellow pot adds most of its fuel below 4000 RPM and
full throttle acceleration.
The red light pot is your for main jet. It adds about 5 points of a main jet for every clock position.
Example: one clock position is the same as 170 to 175 main jet. All we can say about setting up this pot is
use the base setting that comes closest to your bikes modifications. Then use the same method you used,
setting up your carbureted bikes.
I did it just like the book (this example shows). Easy to do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PlowTown Missile View Post
Because you have absolutely no clue what your air/fuel ratio is. That tuner only enriches the mixture, it does not lean it out. You don't know if your bike is already rich in some parts of the rpm band and you may be making it worse.

Go to a reputable dyno tuner with a wideband O2 sensor and have them dyno tune it before you damage your engine anymore than you may already have. Pray your base tune isn't overly rich already before you get there and won't need a Power Commander 3 to lean out the a/f ratio.

The only way to put a tuner on a Victory and just call it good without a dyno tune with a wideband O2 is if you have a 2008+ bike and the tuner is a Power Commander 5 with AutoTune.
Being a little dramatic don't you think? What did you base that statement off of?

Before the tuner the plugs were light tan to off white now they are dark tan. Exactly like they should be. Before was a slight lean condition.

2015 Cross Country (bought new 7/11/15)
2015 Suzuki V-Strom DL650 (bought new 4/26/17)
2006 Triumph Rocket III Classic
1/4 turn throttle ring
Tank riser
VM-1 DR cams
Timing wheel +4
Lloydz high-flow air cleaner
Bassani baffled OEM mufflers
PC-V 118hp 116tq
If it's not broke, make it better
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post #8 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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spark plug color chart.

2015 Cross Country (bought new 7/11/15)
2015 Suzuki V-Strom DL650 (bought new 4/26/17)
2006 Triumph Rocket III Classic
1/4 turn throttle ring
Tank riser
VM-1 DR cams
Timing wheel +4
Lloydz high-flow air cleaner
Bassani baffled OEM mufflers
PC-V 118hp 116tq
If it's not broke, make it better
vindex1963 is offline  
post #9 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 07:19 PM
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Normally people that come across as "dramatic" when offer advice have good reason. Most often it's because they have history with similar issues or have seen the results of DIY gone bad.

Bottom line is that people don't usually offer advice just to tick other people off.

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2008 V-Star 1100 Custom Bobber project

2011 Crimson XR with Forged Highway Bars / Hard Bags / Passenger Backrest, Ness parts including Smooth Layback Plate Frame/Mount / Rad 3 Mirror / deep cut grips / drivers floorboards /shifter peg / brake peg / passenger pegs. Witchdoctor black rack, Lloydz filter / timing wheel / VFC III, 7Jurock windshield, Drag Specialties seat.
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post #10 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vindex1963 View Post
I did it just like the book (this example shows). Easy to do.



Being a little dramatic don't you think? What did you base that statement off of?

Before the tuner the plugs were light tan to off white now they are dark tan. Exactly like they should be. Before was a slight lean condition.
If you ever look at a fuel map on one of the fancy boxes, you will see they have a large matrix of settings based on throttle position and rpm. Presumably, a well paid tuner could fill in all the boxes just right to provide you a perfect 14.7 a/f ratio (or whatever the magic number is) in virtually every conceivable scenario.

I have a such a fancy box on my FJR with a map done by someone who had it professionally created for a stock setup and it works pretty well in the mid and high rpm ranges. But I really didn't purchase it for power. I bought it to try and take out lurchiness when finessing the throttle near its closed position. I had to manually add a whole lot more fuel at that end of the spectrum of the "professionally tuned" map to tame that annoying tendency a tad.

I had a tuner similar to yours on my Warrior and it worked fine with a few screws and a little experimentation. I don't mind running these air-cooled beasts a little on the rich side anyway.

Fortunately, the XR with Stage 1 runs like a champ everywhere. About the only fun I have tinkering with it is sawing on the windscreen to try and completely eliminate buffeting. I suppose Victory had to leave me some minor challenges for days that it snows...




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