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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-25-2012, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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Default plug change?

I have 2 09 vics. A jackpot and a ness vision. The vision has loydes cams and controller with a 2 into 1 RPW pipe. This bike has been dyno'ed by Loyde. The jackpot has a S&S download for the vic 2 into 1 pipe and their aircleaner. Both bikes have been acting rich. Iractic idles,surging etc. I took the vision in because it was still under waranty. They claimed just fouled plugs and charged me too much. The jackpot has the same problem. Plugs look ok,maybe alittle on the rich side.
When these bikes acted up I could just hammer down for 2 gears hitting the limiter and they cleaned up and acted fine for awhile.
I know all the downloads favor the rich side. Its safer for them. I would think that my vision being dyno'ed would be just right. However both show signs of being too rich.
My question is would a simple plug change solve this problem or do I need to retune with a pc?

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-26-2012, 04:12 AM
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-26-2012, 05:05 AM
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That's the problem with dyno's. They're only as good as the tech that runs them and they can't really simulate your particular riding style and conditions such as how quick/slow you roll off the throttle, whether or not you ride gears to slow down, how early/late you tend to shift into the next gear, whether you ride mostly at highway speeds or city streets...so on and so forth. That's exactly why I went with a PCV and Autotune so I could monitor and adjust for my riding style and typical riding conditions. I can't say whether or not this is why your plugs are fouling, but at least you'd have an option to adjust them and to monitor what your fuel feed is doing in a realistic setting.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-26-2012, 06:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DunedinDragon View Post
That's the problem with dyno's. They're only as good as the tech that runs them and they can't really simulate your particular riding style and conditions such as how quick/slow you roll off the throttle, whether or not you ride gears to slow down, how early/late you tend to shift into the next gear, whether you ride mostly at highway speeds or city streets...so on and so forth. That's exactly why I went with a PCV and Autotune so I could monitor and adjust for my riding style and typical riding conditions. I can't say whether or not this is why your plugs are fouling, but at least you'd have an option to adjust them and to monitor what your fuel feed is doing in a realistic setting.
agree
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-26-2012, 12:04 PM
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I would check the fuller controller. It might not be set correct or lost its program.
If your plugs are fouling your running way to rich.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-26-2012, 01:48 PM
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I had a power commander on a bike that was Mappable. I could change each RPM sequence myself. What you have to figure out is in what areas of the RPM range is it running rich. 60mph at what rpm is this your normal operating band? Does it run rich at idle warmed up? Under heavy load accelerating at what rpm is it running rich? Mapping a bike takes time when you change pipes and breathers and so on. But once you get it you will be happy with it. Then you can tweak it.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-26-2012, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I will check the controller settings. When I bought these bikes I almost did the PC. I used a PC on my last Harley.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-27-2012, 05:34 AM
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It could be as simple as the fact that its winter, you're in NW Ohio where it gets cold. If the bike isn't fully warmed up it can and will foul the plugs.

Every time you start the bikes when it's cold they HAVE to be run for a good 5 minutes to get up to a decent temp to clean the plugs. This is also good practice for the rest of the motor to prevent excesssive carbon build-up.

The bikes could actually be set up properly, so don't turn a $10 plug change and habit change into a $600 fuel controller change.

Just a thought if it is just the plugs that are the problem...

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-27-2012, 11:42 AM
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Rule of thumb when sitting on bike or standing there put your hand on the rear cylinder you can feel the heat build. When the cylinder is warm to the touch your ready to ride.
For me then the first mile is very gentle after that mile I ride like normal.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-27-2012, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicbuilder View Post
It could be as simple as the fact that its winter, you're in NW Ohio where it gets cold. If the bike isn't fully warmed up it can and will foul the plugs.

Every time you start the bikes when it's cold they HAVE to be run for a good 5 minutes to get up to a decent temp to clean the plugs. This is also good practice for the rest of the motor to prevent excesssive carbon build-up.

The bikes could actually be set up properly, so don't turn a $10 plug change and habit change into a $600 fuel controller change.

Just a thought if it is just the plugs that are the problem...
Hi Ryan, I always warm up the bikes first. The last time the vision was run was when taking it in to the stealership. I rode about 45 min. then shut it off and went in a gun shop. When leaving the bike was still very warm however the idle was at 1200 to 1300. The only way I could get it to come bake down was to hammer on it hard for a bit. The next stop it was running fine.I'm still not sold on the plug thing. I think this was an easy out for the tech. Both bikes are put away till better weather and no saltly roads. I won't know for sure till then.

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