Engine light on and off??? - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 06:53 AM Thread Starter
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Default Engine light on and off???

I have a 2014 Cross Roads with 2200 miles on it and the last few rides my engine light will come on. Yesterday on a 200 mile ride it came on for a while and went out on it's own. Other days it will come on and when I pull over, shut the bike off and start it again there will be no light.

Sometimes prior to and during the engine light I'll notice the speedometer flash as it was losing the light to it. Today on the way to work in the dark the speedo would totally lose the light for a moment and come back on while the engine light was on. I pulled over, shut it off and started it back up with "No" engine light for the remainder of the ride. However the speedo reads check engine.

Any ideas? The bike keeps running and does not sound or feel like it misses a beat. Could it be as simple as a loose battery terminal only?

2014 Cross Roads Classic
2007 Kawasaki KLR
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John (Ma) View Post
I have a 2014 Cross Roads with 2200 miles on it and the last few rides my engine light will come on. Yesterday on a 200 mile ride it came on for a while and went out on it's own. Other days it will come on and when I pull over, shut the bike off and start it again there will be no light.

Sometimes prior to and during the engine light I'll notice the speedometer flash as it was losing the light to it. Today on the way to work in the dark the speedo would totally lose the light for a moment and come back on while the engine light was on. I pulled over, shut it off and started it back up with "No" engine light for the remainder of the ride. However the speedo reads check engine.

Any ideas? The bike keeps running and does not sound or feel like it misses a beat. Could it be as simple as a loose battery terminal only?
YES!...It could be loose battery terminal, if not it could be lots of other things, only real way to know for sure is plug it into your local dealers computer and it'll tell the story.
Only took a few seconds to pinpoint the problem on mine (engine temp sensor clip dodgy)

Victory Vegas 2010
Lloydz 109"cube big bore
" " 495 cams
" " TorqueTubes
" " timing wheel @4 deg.
" " Primary plate
" " IAV
RPW Slash pipes
PCV
Progressive 465 rear shock
Kingpin USD Forks
18" XC front wheel
1 3/4" 'Burleigh Bars'
Stebel air horn
12.106 @110.90mph
114/123

Victory Cross Country 2010 (106)
Lloyds air filter
" " VM1 Cams
Home gutted exhaust
Maximus
Both tuned by [email protected] Dyno
110/116

Gold Coast
Australia
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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OK. Thanks, I just went out on a break and checked the battery terminals and all appears tight, so I guess I'll have to go back to the dealer already to see what is going on.

I just turned the key for the hell of it and there is no engine light or message now, so hopefully their computer hook up will still read what happened if it dies not pop on while there.

Thanks

2014 Cross Roads Classic
2007 Kawasaki KLR
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 10:46 AM
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from Chapter 5 of service manual
Self-diagnostic Feature
The ECM used on the Victory motorcycle stores trouble
codes in memory. Trouble codes are stored by the ECM
when a sensor reading is outside of the normal or
“plausible” range. Codes are listed and described on
page 5.37. The ECM is located under the left side cover.
When a fault occurs, the ECM records a code in the
“Logged Faults” memory. If a fault is currently active, the
code is also recorded in the ECM “Current Faults”
memory and remains until the fault is no longer occurring.
If a problem is corrected, a “Current Fault” is erased, but
the code remains in “Logged Faults” memory until it is
manually cleared using Digital Wrench. Logged faults
remain even if battery power is removed from the ECM.
Digital Wrench diagnostic software is the tool used to
interface with the EFI system by coupling to a diagnostic
port located under the left side cover. Whenever available,
Digital Wrench should always be connected to a
vehicle for more accurate problem diagnosis.

SPN / FMI Error Codes (Cross Country)
If the CHECK ENGINE (MIL) light is ON or when it goes
on and off during one ignition cycle (key on / key off cycle)
an ERROR message will appear after the normal LCD
Information Display functions (Miles, Trip 1, Trip 2, Miles
per Gallon, Average Speed, etc.). Use the MODE button
to toggle through the various normal display options and
view the ERROR message at the end.
The ERROR message consists of an FMI and an SPN
number.
Example: ERROR 14 - 520200 corresponds to FMI 3 /
SPN 520200 (and Trouble Code P1504) in the table
above for this combination. The best course of action is to
connect Digital Wrench to view logged codes directly and
use the guided diagnostics for that code; however, if
Digital Wrench is not available you can use the
description of the FMI / SPN code to determine which
system or component may be causing the code by
reading the description from the table.
NOTE: Error codes are not stored. The error screen will
only appear when the Check Engine light is ON. When
the key is turned off, the code and message is lost, but it
will reappear if the fault occurs again after starting the
engine.
To retrieve error codes from the display:
1. If the error codes are not displayed, use the mode
button to toggle until “Err” displays in the clock area.
2. Record the three code numbers displayed in the gear
position, temperature, and odometer displays.
3. Refer to table above for a list of codes. chapter 5.37

2013 black XCT.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 11:19 AM
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You really should check battery bolt with a 10mm wrench to find out if there tight

2008 Vision
Mpls, MN.

Please add your state and model of bike you have. Click user CP @ top of page and then far left click edit signature. Thanks
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Great information OikiHoss! Makes me feel a little better to go to the dealer with this issue as in the past you go in and if it is not acting as described you just get the standard looks normal. Thanks again, I will look into this a little more myself and make an appointment next week as I have to work the next few days anyway. Guess I'll have to break out the trusty KLR in the mean time.

Thanks again

2014 Cross Roads Classic
2007 Kawasaki KLR
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by visionjohnny View Post
You really should check battery bolt with a 10mm wrench to find out if there tight
I'd even go further and disconnect clean reconnect and grease terminals. Installing a lockwasher while I was at it.

Victory Vegas 2010
Lloydz 109"cube big bore
" " 495 cams
" " TorqueTubes
" " timing wheel @4 deg.
" " Primary plate
" " IAV
RPW Slash pipes
PCV
Progressive 465 rear shock
Kingpin USD Forks
18" XC front wheel
1 3/4" 'Burleigh Bars'
Stebel air horn
12.106 @110.90mph
114/123

Victory Cross Country 2010 (106)
Lloyds air filter
" " VM1 Cams
Home gutted exhaust
Maximus
Both tuned by [email protected] Dyno
110/116

Gold Coast
Australia
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, I will check the battery bolts a little closer when I get home again. Thanks

2014 Cross Roads Classic
2007 Kawasaki KLR
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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I was able to check the battery terminals better last night and they were loose for sure. I could move the negative cable and unscrewed the positive cable with my fingers. So, I put the split washers on and tightened to spec. Everything is good as of now, hopefully that does the trick. Thanks for all of your replies.

2014 Cross Roads Classic
2007 Kawasaki KLR
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John (Ma) View Post
I was able to check the battery terminals better last night and they were loose for sure. I could move the negative cable and unscrewed the positive cable with my fingers. So, I put the split washers on and tightened to spec. Everything is good as of now, hopefully that does the trick. Thanks for all of your replies.
I put on star lock washers shortly after I got the bike home, and tightened the piss out of them, didn't know there was a spec, I only check twice a summer, always tight.........

2013 XCT, Red,
Tri Ovals, S1 Package, Accel 8.8 Wires,Yellow.
Wheel @ +4, Kuryakyn Shift/Brake Pegs, o2s Disabled.
Utopia Backrest. KewlMetal Heal Shifter with Kuryakyn pegs ..
Lubrication Provided By Amsoil..

Even duct tape can't fix stupid....but it will muffle the sound
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