I know your post said you have a CE light and don't know if any of this will help your idle but it is good to know info I gathered from other owners concerning low or rough idle. Once I did all this mine is a solid 1000 almost on the money with no idle screw adjustment made.
Throttle body cleaning brought my RPM back up about +100 and bike smoothed out. Here is an excerpt from TARZAN that I used. Note that your bike has the stock air box on it and I had already replaced mine so I really am not sure how your going to get at them but may be worth the look at least. I know you said you wernt happy with the Db of the exhaust so cutting the old air box out and putting a K&N or S&S on is something you might want to avoid. That stock air box is quiter!
I use a long screw driver with a clean cloth.Spray(soak) the cloth with cleaner then push a big wad past the throttle bodies. I use a long rag so I can hang on to one end and pull it back out. You can rig the throttle bodies open while doing this. The intake runners clean up pretty easy. Obviously you want to be real careful not to scratch the butterflies or throat of the throttle bodies. Just wrap the rag around the screw driver or what ever you use. Then pull out the screw driver.With the rag down in there, you can use a tooth brush and scrub around them in there too.That is the way I do it anyway. Then just pull your rag out. I use two rags.Get the bulk of it the first time. Then use a clean section of rag and do it again. They look like new when I'm done,and I don't end up with anything going into the cylinders.
Spark plugs - A easy improvement, my thought is if your going to pull them and inspect them, replace them. 10-12 bucks, I stuck with NGC stock.
Vacum ports - On the right hand side of your throttle bodies, you should see a vacum port capped facing the rear of the bike on each body below the top of the TB intake. It will be easier to pull the tank to inspect this which is simple. Once removed, you should be able to see each vacum port cap on your right. Inspect for cracking or deteriation and replace if warrented. I just looked at my engine to see if I could view these without pulling the tank and I could barely see the rear and the front was visible but I couldnt really get my fingers on it. Removing the tank is going to be easiest way I believe.
Removing tank: Suggest run it down to 1-2 gallons and second set of hands if possible. I rarely have someone help but it is nice when it happes. Clamp on the right between the TB's and the heads, unscrew, rag to catch residule gas, disconnect. Remove seat screw on rear fender and slide seat out. Cover tank with cloth to prevent scratching if you drop a tool, remove front two hex bolts then rear. Disconnect vent hose at rear of tank, lift rear of tank and disconnect fuel pump/gauge connector and set tank on something to prevent scratching bottom of it.
Air filter: On a previous thread you said you had recieved an air filter with some additional parts. If you have the K&N replacement filter in your stock box, have you inspected and/or cleaned it. K&N recharge kit fairly inexpensive and worth the time to keep it tip top!
Fuel: Are you burning 91 octane? Just a thought from another thread.
Hope some of this is useful Bo, you got a great lookin ride. Keep us posted on your outcome!
Safe riding! Tim
Again, alot of littles usually equal something big
2011 White Vision - Nuvi 550, Lowers, Lloydz 2nd filter, Vic perf filter, CB/Icom, 96 Brake LED's, Clear Signal lens/Switchbacks, VIC Hwy Pegs, Stebel Horn, 7Jurock 15" Shield, PCV, Lloyd ATS and Variable intake, Ness honkers
2004 V92 TC - S1 flash, level 1 slip-on, Ness big sucker K&N, ISO Grips, 4x1.5 Highway Hawg Risers, extra chrome (never too much), JM 2k CB 4' antena, Mustang seat, HD Front TS & Lowers, OD Pulley
Retired Navy SCPO
Last edited by Tims_04V92TC; 06-14-2012 at 12:26 AM.