Victory dead, was popping and backfiring. now wont start - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-12-2012, 01:49 AM Thread Starter
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Default Victory dead, was popping and backfiring. now wont start

Here is what happended today. Sorry for being long winded but I dont want to miss any sequence.
I took out my 2000 V92C this afternoon. Started fine, rode for about 3 hrs. Stopped at 2-3 places for about 20-30 mins each. Everything was fine. Then on my way back stopped at Lowes to pick up some supplies. Was there for about 40-45 min. Came out and starterd the bike - dead. Wouldnt crank. I could see that it was trying but wasn't getting enough juice. I had turned the bike off and taken the key with me. So no reson for drained battery.
Anyway I went into Lowes to buy the charger/starter. Guy told me they keep a couple in back to charge their fork lifts so he will come and give me a jump start.
Ok, thats customer service. Really appreciate Lowes for doing that.
The jumper didnt have enough charge so he went back and charged it for ~45 min and bought it back with full charge.
The bike was turning on but still wouldn't start. He said the battery is really gone. We tried to pop start but that didnt work either.
There was Oreily's close by so I decided to walk over to get help. On the way was a used car lot. Manager told me he has a charger/starter on wheels (which they use for jump starting cars). It was fully charged and I could borrow that, It waould sure have enough juice.
So I pushed the bike to the lot. Hooked up and fired the engine. And it strated. I kept the bike running, rolled back his jumper on wheel and returned it. Thanked him.
Came back, the bike was running fine in neutral (with choke open). Got on the bike,shifted into 1st and strated to roll.
Well, thats when the trouble began. The bike strated jerking as if it couldnt get enough gas, then suddenly it would surge forward. It was backfiring like crazy. I couldnt maintain speeed. It would start to slow down in spite of open throttle and then it would suddenly surge. However, when I stopped at light and pulled the clutch in, it would idle just fine.
I left the choke open and rode carefully like that home (about 8 miles), pulled into the driveway. Pulled the clutch in to check. (It was idling just fine). Left it in neutral and got off the bike and suddenly it died. Tried to start again and nothing - completely dead bike.
Sorry for the long story but hopefully it gives someone enough info to comment on what's wrong.
I am bummed, don't know what to look for. I am already missing the bike, was planning to go next week to the lakes.
I was thinking may be battery or alternator earlier while I was waiting at Lowes. Battery is quite old (~5/6 years)
But now I am thinking may be by using the car jumper I probably fried the onborad computer or injection sytem or something.......
Any advice?

Last edited by Victorypub; 08-12-2012 at 01:54 AM.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-12-2012, 02:14 AM
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Boy, I'm gonna guess bad connection in circuit somewhere. Check all connections, both hot and ground, and it wouldn't hurt to get a new battery. But from my reading these forums, it sounds electrical.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-12-2012, 02:24 AM Thread Starter
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Boy, I'm gonna guess bad connection in circuit somewhere. Check all connections, both hot and ground, and it wouldn't hurt to get a new battery. But from my reading these forums, it sounds electrical.
Thankss Cornfedboy. yeah, sounds like circuit. i am going to get a new battery and start there.
Not sure how to check the alternator. When i checked it this morning before taking off it was showing good voltage on the monitor display. May be there is some other test.
I am hoping i didnt fry some electrical board or alternator or something like that. Will start on that after the battery is replaced. I think the battery does need replcement.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-12-2012, 05:16 AM
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I believe Kevinx has been known to say : tighten, tighten, tighten, tighten....
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-12-2012, 06:07 AM
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It's probably the battery. Mine started up one day, stopped for gas. Hit the starter and nothing. New battery was the fix. Just becareful and don't get a cheap China battery.

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-12-2012, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cornfedboy2000 View Post
Boy, I'm gonna guess bad connection in circuit somewhere. Check all connections, both hot and ground, and it wouldn't hurt to get a new battery. But from my reading these forums, it sounds electrical.
Battery. These fuel injected bikes are super picky. Even know you were able to jump it to start it, the battery never got enough juice in it to keep it running correctly. Rode my 99 home 80 miles with it not running right. Got terrible gas mileage running like that. Tried a couple of different thing and found out the battery was just junk..

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-12-2012, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks all for quick response on this one. I am feeling a little better about it. Plan to get a new battery next week and check it out. Hopefully that's what it is.
Anyone know how to get to the alternator and check it while I am doing the battery?
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-12-2012, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
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...Battery is quite old (~5/6 years)...
With a 5-6 year old battery, I don't see any logical reason not to order a new one.


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...Anyone know how to get to the alternator and check it while I am doing the battery?...
Do you have a voltmeter?

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-12-2012, 10:53 AM
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Sounds like low voltage to the ECU causing the running problems; I agree with the others...

* Check all connections, especially ground (get 'em shiny & tight)
* replace battery

Once that's done, if it restarts, check the voltage, both at idle and at ~2500 rpm and see what you get; low voltage at 2500 would lead me to suspect the voltage regulator. (This with the '00 original alternator.) I've found the voltmeter readout on the multi-function display to be close enough for these purposes.

The alternator is inside the primary case; stator bolts to the primary cover, rotor/flywheel is on the end of the crank. They're pretty robust; haven't heard of them going out.

Has your bike had the alternator upgrade? The early bikes had an undersized alternator (~23 amp capacity), and there's an upgrade kit which has a 35 amp alternator / regulator; if you haven't done the upgrade, it may be worth considering, especially if your regulator has gone out. Idle voltage with the original alternator will be in the low 12s, and it doesn't start charging the battery until about 2k rpm; with the upgrade you will get about 14 volts at idle, with correspondingly better charging. It's not difficult to do the upgrade, but it will require pulling the primary cover to put in the new stator.

The indicators for the upgrade would be the higher idle voltage and a different regulator - 23 amp has square corners, while the upgrade regulator corners are rounded, about the same curve radius as a US quarter.

Whether or not the ECU was damaged due to the jump start is sort of a toss-up - you probably won't be able to tell until you replace the battery & try to start it up.

Good luck, and let us know how it ends up...

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Last edited by Colorado Expat; 08-12-2012 at 10:57 AM. Reason: clairfy wording
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-12-2012, 04:09 PM
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Please update with what this turns out to be, I have had several of these problems.

Mainly the "surging" thing. Bike would sometimes just stop accelerating and then just "surge". I attributed it to the bike just not being warm enough because the problem would normally go away after riding for about 30 mins or so.
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