Rounded steering head bolt resolved, now to replacing the bearings - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 06:19 AM Thread Starter
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Default Rounded steering head bolt resolved, now to replacing the bearings

Using a 5/8 drill bit and a bolt extractor ( see my last post for link to it on Amazon) I removed the bolt easily. Photos are below. Now to servicing the steering bearings. Advices are welcome.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 07:55 AM
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Heyyyyy you got it out
....

For better bearings you must find the thread of @RICZ... He just upgraded his stearing and bearings

Very interesting stuff

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 09:16 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BP6666VR View Post
Heyyyyy you got it out
....

For better bearings you must find the thread of @RICZ... He just upgraded his stearing and bearings

Very interesting stuff

Sent from my A1601 using Tapatalk

Yup, the tree is out, forks, wheel, you name it! I'm pretty nervous, to be honest. But every major work I do the first time I get like this. It will be ok, between service manual and you guys I'll get it back together. Moving down section 12 of the manual, page by page. Next, remove the lock nut and the adjusting nut and remove them stem! Brrrrr!
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 09:27 AM
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Again find RICZ thread, he removed the ball bearings and replaced them with roller bearings....

Sorry I can't give you details, but somebody will post a link....

Take your time with this... Coz there is some good info on this site about tripple Tree bearings

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 02:40 PM
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On your new stem bolt add some anti seize to the threads. All so put some on the bottom of the bolt where it will come in contact with the the triple tree.
A little anti seize goes a long ways

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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On your new stem bolt add some anti seize to the threads. All so put some on the bottom of the bolt where it will come in contact with the the triple tree.
A little anti seize goes a long ways
Yep all for anti seize. I had to leave mine in WA, believe it or not, movers wouldn't bring it on their truck. I'll get some.

Inspecting the race/bearing was interesting. The grease is old and dead, I get that, but I expected a more visible defect, considering the symptoms. The bearing didn't visibly seem damaged. Moved freely. The upper race was apparently intact. The bottom race has a tiny, I mean, barely noticeable indentation on the bikes closest point of the circle. So looking at it from the front you would be staring at the indentation. I couldn't really see it but felt it running my finger in the races inside surface.

Does this make sense? Do I need to fight the battle of trying to remove those races? Or does it look like my problem is something else and I'm barking at the wrong tree all along?

The symptom is that the bike has a notch when riding straight. Makes it hard to turn and to go straight as well.

Btw, I checked the thread Andre mentioned. Lots of good info.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 05:42 PM
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if the race is not shiny and you see marks in race its bad.
Good chisel will take it out. Make sure bike is blocked up good
now if you don't like the looks of the bearings. Take the old ones to a bearing store. They will have them at a good price.
Clean the old bearing look on youtube for how to.
NEVER use air to blow dry bearings

post a photo of clean bearings

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 06:45 PM
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I'd be replacing that button head bolt with a hex head if I were you. I can't believe the mfr used a button head in that application.
Re removing the races: If you can get a long punch or drift on an edge of the race, tap it out by rotating the punch to a different spot with each hit. You didn't say how many miles on the bike, but dimes to donuts new bearings will be a huge improvement and they don't cost that much that you can't afford them. Check with AllBalls for a kit and upgrade to tapered rollers for a lot better feel.

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeFoxtrot View Post
Yep all for anti seize. I had to leave mine in WA, believe it or not, movers wouldn't bring it on their truck. I'll get some.

Inspecting the race/bearing was interesting. The grease is old and dead, I get that, but I expected a more visible defect, considering the symptoms. The bearing didn't visibly seem damaged. Moved freely. The upper race was apparently intact. The bottom race has a tiny, I mean, barely noticeable indentation on the bikes closest point of the circle. So looking at it from the front you would be staring at the indentation. I couldn't really see it but felt it running my finger in the races inside surface.

Does this make sense? Do I need to fight the battle of trying to remove those races? Or does it look like my problem is something else and I'm barking at the wrong tree all along?

The symptom is that the bike has a notch when riding straight. Makes it hard to turn and to go straight as well.

Btw, I checked the thread Andre mentioned. Lots of good info.
The problem is seldom on the top, but replace it and the race anyway. Go to Auto Zone and borrow their blind race puller; for the bottom race. Checking a bearing without load on it is virtually impossible

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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Agreed on all counts. - She has over 40k miles on her. I'm replacing both bearings. - tried removing with chisels and rods but it doesn't bulge. That frame head has a narrower section inside that makes it difficult. - I bought a blind bearing removal kit today on Amazon, I'll post it here when on a computer. - Like most projects, once you are deep in it doesn't look so scary anymore. Just lengthy. I'll keep on posting progress e questions. Thanks for the support.
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Last edited by MikeFoxtrot; 04-03-2017 at 09:52 PM.
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