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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-07-2013, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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Default 15k Service

Looking at the checklist for a 15,000 mile service, I see a lot of potentially difficult and expensive items, such as replacing the rear shock. Is this a must, or is it, as I suspect, part of Victory's trying to separate me and my cash?

I was quoted about $750-800 for the entire 15k service. I'm thinking I could do it myself for a fraction of that, assuming I don't have to tear the bike down very far.

Any suggestions as to what is critical, important, and not important in the checklist?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-07-2013, 07:00 PM
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You don't have to replace the rear shock, what it calls for is just a service/rebuild of the shock. What I've done on my C & TC is pick up a spare shock on ebay and get it rebuilt and then swap it into the bike during periodic maintenance. Then get that one rebuilt and never have any down time on the bikes. Unfortunately I don't know if the guy who I used to have rebuild them is still doing this-it ran around $75. I'm sure there's other places to get a FOX shock serviced I just haven't needed to look. You should be fine for a while, it's one of those things like the fork oil or tires that slowly degrade and you don't really notice it but when you do the service & replace you go "wow this is way better".

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-08-2013, 01:51 PM Thread Starter
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Great idea. Thanks. "Wow, this is better" would be good. I HAVE been able to feel a little degradation in the ride over time. The bumps are a bit rougher than they used to be. Being 6'4, 230 and carrying a 50lb tbag behind me is probably not doing that shock any favors.

How easy is it to change the fork oil? I can't find a procedure in the service manual, which makes me think I would have to pull the forks and change the seals.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-08-2013, 06:19 PM
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Fork oil's pretty easy. I'd plan to do it next time you replace the front tire & I've had good results going up a bit in fluid weight from the stock 7.5W, right now I have a blend of synthetic 10W & 15W that gives me a 12.5W that I like-I'm about your size + a few lbs. I'm still running my original seals. Chapter 12 in the service manual should get you headed in the right direction. Where on the front range are you?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Vict...60575088286%26
http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-Polaris-V...item2c66a84843
http://www.ebay.com/itm/01-Polaris-V...item2ec55cb2f8

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-09-2013, 01:04 PM
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Change your oil and ride.
Victory doesn't know how long there parts will last so to be safe they say change.
Spending money on new shock or a belt is foolish.
I have ridden more years then i care to admit and have never had a shock go out and have never replace a belt before 80 thousand miles.
You can tell is your shock is bad by how many times you bottom.
I think your spouse to change fork oil now. Go another 10 thousand miles and then do it.
Good Luck on what ever you decide

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Mpls, MN.

Please add your state and model of bike you have. Click user CP @ top of page and then far left click edit signature. Thanks
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-09-2013, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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Kinda what I figured. Dealers and Grease Monkey would have you change your oil every 3000 miles, which makes them lots of money, but 7500 is often enough. I'm sure it's the same for bikes, but the thought of something failing at 80mph on 2 wheels is a sobering thought.

Guess that money is gonna go for new pipes and maybe a Lloyd's intake and a fuel controller.

Thanks to everyone.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-09-2013, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ByteN2it View Post
Fork oil's pretty easy. I'd plan to do it next time you replace the front tire & I've had good results going up a bit in fluid weight from the stock 7.5W, right now I have a blend of synthetic 10W & 15W that gives me a 12.5W that I like-I'm about your size + a few lbs. I'm still running my original seals. Chapter 12 in the service manual should get you headed in the right direction. Where on the front range are you?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Vict...60575088286%26
http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-Polaris-V...item2c66a84843
http://www.ebay.com/itm/01-Polaris-V...item2ec55cb2f8
+1 on BN2it I'm going to disagree with a few for one simple reason. I ride and wan t performance every mile. While you may get plenty of miles pushing your fork oil to the last mile or a mono bottoming out, it is amazing what fresh or upgraded fork oil can do for your ride and riding 1000 miles in a day then see a gusher come out of a fork seal. Follow the above on the mono. Saves down time and really smooths out the ride. Maybe cuz I weigh n at 250 I need it but I don't think so. 10w fork oil does great for me over 7.5 and after 15k when it came out it looked like it had been in from stock. Also the fork seals are like 25 bucks I believe when I Replaced them and not only did I blow one but the fork just about depleted before getting it to the house. I had just finished riding over 1200 miles and almost didn't make the last 20. Lol.

So now I replace the seals when changing the oil at 15. Ounce of prevention.

You should be ale to do most of what it calls for because almost everything is inspect. Clean the TBs, check replace wires if any signs of wear, check the clutch lever for wear that cold cause chaffing on the clutch cableright where the cable swedge fits into the handle. File, clean and lube with lithium. if replacing the air filter, go K&N if your still stock. Plugs are up to you but if I inspect I replace. Get them from auto store for a fraction of the cost. Fuel filter should be fin. If you had fuel starvation symptoms then pull it. Check your front drive pulley for red dust as an indicator the nut may have broken torque OR retorque it as per your manual. Ask if you need help but this cld save you a lot of headaches if gone unchecked.

And I would still upgrade the exhaust. Hehehehe. Safe ridin

Tim

2011 White Vision - Nuvi 550, Lowers, Lloydz 2nd filter, Vic perf filter, CB/Icom, 96 Brake LED's, Clear Signal lens/Switchbacks, VIC Hwy Pegs, Stebel Horn, 7Jurock 15" Shield, PCV, Lloyd ATS and Variable intake, Ness honkers

2004 V92 TC - S1 flash, level 1 slip-on, Ness big sucker K&N, ISO Grips, 4x1.5 Highway Hawg Risers, extra chrome (never too much), JM 2k CB 4' antena, Mustang seat, HD Front TS & Lowers, OD Pulley

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-10-2013, 09:53 AM
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I did find a resource for rebuilding the rear shocks. I used to have Barry TwoWheels do the work and it ran around $75 for parts/labor/shipping but his old website is gone & he's MIA. This guy looks to be about the same cost. Be sure to remove the spring if you ship a shock-it will save you a few lb$. Here's his contact info if your interested.

David Schumacher
DLS Enterprises Phone:763-449-9472
525 Harbor Lane N.
Plymouth, MN 55447

www.shock-service.com
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-10-2013, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. I'll check it out. Being a newbie to motorcycle maintenance, I'm still a bit confused about changing the fork oil. Am i going to have to pull the forks and remove the seals? It looks that way in the service manual.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-10-2013, 12:09 PM
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Pull the forks, turn them upside down and slowly pump them to remove the old fluid. I let 'em stand upside down for a while and ensure they're completely drained. Replace your seals if you need or want to- 2" PVC pipe with a beveled edge works for seating the new seals or you can use the old seals on top of the new ones and massage them in. Pour in the specified amount of fluid and then adjust the fluid level-I use a homemade tool that's a big syringe with tubing and a stop to hold the inlet at the proper depth inside the fork and suck out any extra fluid to the correct measurement on both forks.
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