2002 V92TC Stall & jerky throttle even when warm - dealer can't figure it out - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-06-2013, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation 2002 V92TC Stall & jerky throttle even when warm - dealer can't figure it out

Alright guys - hopefully someone in here is smarter than the dealer I've been dealing with in Michigan for the last 3 weeks. When I fire up the bike it sounds rough, and will stall out after 2 seconds, sometimes after 30 seconds. RPM's are below 1,000 at idle without the joke. With the joke normally it'd be at 2,000RPM's, but if I put the choke all the way up it'll resist stalling a LITTLE bit longer - maybe only around 1,000RPMs. If I crank on the throttle it won't stall out as quickly, but that's difficult at stop lights or when taking corners / getting off on ramps, etc. Also, anything under 2,000rpms and it'll herk/jerk as if I was cranking on the throttle, then letting off yet my hand isn't doing anything, which is actually kind of dangerous.

I installed new spark plugs and it reduced the issue BIG TIME. It's much better, although it still stalls every time I stop and sounds "rough" at lower RPM's. The dealer says the bike is fine to ride, but can't explain what is happening.

Why do I think this is happening all of a sudden ? This all happened after I left the bike on & the battery died, had to hook a charger up to it (@ 2AMP low trickle) I left the charger on the battery for 2 days because I've been working 14hr days and was just too lazy to go out to the garage and take it off - plus I didn't think it would hurt it. I also left the bike connections on the battery during charging. This may have been stupid - ??? I don't know. How could this have affected the bike ??

All of that said, once I'm above 2,000rpms (highway speed) it feels great, just as it normally would. I took it to the victory dealer and they hooked it up to a 'machine' and it diagnosed it as a bad throttle sensor. The mechanic said that didn't seem right and he was going to call Victory before ordering the part (Victory: 4010225) so I wouldn't be wasting money. My dealer has not been able to contact Victory and they say they've been trying every other day. Meanwhile everytime I call out there they just want to try and sell me a new bike. I don't know if the problem is the dealer or if it's the home office, but I'm getting VERY ticked off because it's beautiful weather and riding is a pain in the ass.

I'm not very familiar with bikes, but I would say I'm not an "idiot" so I'm not afraid to try to install something on my own. This issue just seems like it's weird...

Does anyone have any pointers for me ? Does it seem like it might be the throttle position sensor ? My dealer says that part is discontinued, but I may be able to find on ebay or something. I don't want to spend a bunch of money on it if there's no way that that's what it is. Anyone on the forum think it'd be worth it ? My concern is that just as the bike is idling it has issues - which is before the throttle is even pulled. Please help!
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-06-2013, 07:55 PM
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I would get battery tested and clean throttle bodies. Could be tps, but would check other things first.


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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-06-2013, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I would get battery tested and clean throttle bodies. Could be tps, but would check other things first.


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Thank you SO much for your reply. I was wondering if I'd get anything and within a few minutes already something!

1. Battery was tested at a motorcycle dealer and came out fine. Also, it's been 3 weeks and no problems starting.
2. Any advice how to clean out a "throttle body" ? I actually don't even know what that is.
3. When you say to check other things first, the only new thing is #2, which I'm hoping you can elaborate on. If there are others, please post up and I'll for sure look into them

OK - maybe I am stupid, haha
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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-06-2013, 08:17 PM
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Too much at once Arbor. As Atbyrne stated, lets rule out some things that contribute to SOME of what your describing like the TBs. I don't see the battery running down causing this all at once but maybe it all came to a head when it happened. If you could provided some more info, could be able to help you.
Battery: Have you cleaned the terminals and ensured good connections? Has battery been tested or does it seem week? (just seen your 2nd post) Did you try to jump start off a car at any time? Don't think your trickle caused anything from what you wrote. A weak battery will create all kinds of headache for the ECU. What is your volt output while running and while idle.

Fast Idle Lever: You refered to it as joke and said your using it while riding. No choke on your bike and should not be using while riding unless your trying to use it as a throttle lock.. .lol... Proper start up as per LLoydz is Key on, wait for fuel pump to pressurize, pull fast idle lever down enough that it will give you around 1500 rpm and start. May take just a hair on the throttle to get this point down but your shooting for 1500 RPM for the warm up. Do NOT blip or rev, just start it with your handle bars to the left. After a couple minutes back it off until you got your idle of 1000 +/-50. You will notice it backs off itself if you turn bars to right.

Rough idle: How many miles you got? When is last time you cleaned TB's? When you cleaned them did you inspect the right side of the TB's for a vacum plug on each about mid section down? Very common to dry rot and cause your problem. What type of airfilter and when did you last clean/replace it. Im asking this as you said the new plugs helped alot so I gotta ask. Run 1/2 a can of seafoam (FI cleaner) through your next tank too.

See if you can put some replys up to these and hopefully we can help. Not saying your dealer aint right, just saying these things can all cause what your describing and the dollar investment is pennys to resolve. If you are unsure about how to clean the TB's let me know, will post the link to the thread or use the search featur and you will find it.

Tim

2011 White Vision - Nuvi 550, Lowers, Lloydz 2nd filter, Vic perf filter, CB/Icom, 96 Brake LED's, Clear Signal lens/Switchbacks, VIC Hwy Pegs, Stebel Horn, 7Jurock 15" Shield, PCV, Lloyd ATS and Variable intake, Ness honkers

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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-06-2013, 08:35 PM
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seen you werent sure about cleaning the TBs and I didnt find the thread after a couple quick searches but here it is in a nut shell.

Pick up a can of TB cleaner (I like SeaFoam)
Some strips of a Tshirt or towel
Mechanical fingers are great
long screwdriver
couple shop towels for you
An old tooth brush (almost forgot this important tool)

-Run tank down to a couple gallons if you can, makes it easier to come off, handle bars strait.
-pull seat, then tank careful to disconnect the fuel line and wiring to the fuel pump (Pretty sure its in the tank on the 02) by lifting rear forward and sticking your hand up under there disconnecting from the tank. Slide back and up and its off. Make sure you got a towel to sit it on before you start.
-You will see an access cover on the air duct, remove it and you will see two air inlet tubes, remove them, and you will see the butterflys and probally alot of oil and crap around them. Clean all that up making sure nothin in the TB's.
-Now have someone hold the throttle wide up for you, drop a couple shots of TB cleaner in the throat, using the screwdriver with the shirt/towel on the tip one hand and toothbrush in the other, softly brush the guk then push towel down the TB cleaning up the mess in the TB's and clean them good. Multiple attempts may be needed to get them looking new. Leave NO debris, clean them until they shine. Careful not to get the TB cleaner on any paint.
-Look on right side of TBs for the vacum caps, one each TB. Replace if cracked.
-Reassemble and start as discussed, may see some smoke from the TB cleaner.

Remember when starting do NOT twist your throttle like the old carb days... You will just fould the plugs.
Report back on what you got but my be is idle at 1100 RPM... hehe

Good luck
Tim

2011 White Vision - Nuvi 550, Lowers, Lloydz 2nd filter, Vic perf filter, CB/Icom, 96 Brake LED's, Clear Signal lens/Switchbacks, VIC Hwy Pegs, Stebel Horn, 7Jurock 15" Shield, PCV, Lloyd ATS and Variable intake, Ness honkers

2004 V92 TC - S1 flash, level 1 slip-on, Ness big sucker K&N, ISO Grips, 4x1.5 Highway Hawg Risers, extra chrome (never too much), JM 2k CB 4' antena, Mustang seat, HD Front TS & Lowers, OD Pulley

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Last edited by Tims_04V92TC; 06-06-2013 at 10:44 PM.
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-06-2013, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tims_04V92TC View Post
Battery: Have you cleaned the terminals and ensured good connections? Has battery been tested or does it seem week? (just seen your 2nd post) Did you try to jump start off a car at any time? Don't think your trickle caused anything from what you wrote. A weak battery will create all kinds of headache for the ECU. What is your volt output while running and while idle.
Battery terminals: Yeah I've cleaned them off and visually they look fine. I've never jumped it from a car for fear of ruining something, just the slow trickle charge. I've killed the battery probably 5 times since I bought the bike 4 years ago - every time because I'm an idiot and left it on, or thought I'd get one more ride in before winter, then never did and the battery died in the garage. I have no idea what the volt output is wihle running and while idle. I will have to get back to you on that one


Quote:
Originally Posted by Tims_04V92TC View Post
Fast Idle Lever: You refered to it as joke and said your using it while riding. No choke on your bike and should not be using while riding unless your trying to use it as a throttle lock.. .lol... Proper start up as per LLoydz is Key on, wait for fuel pump to pressurize, pull fast idle lever down enough that it will give you around 1500 rpm and start. May take just a hair on the throttle to get this point down but your shooting for 1500 RPM for the warm up. Do NOT blip or rev, just start it with your handle bars to the left. After a couple minutes back it off until you got your idle of 1000 +/-50. You will notice it backs off itself if you turn bars to right.
I'm a moron, I meant to type "choke" but if it's actually called a fast idle lever, then my bad. Even the Victory dealer called it a choke though! I don't use it while riding, I only switch it on when I'm parked or at a stop light because it sucks to stall out in traffic. The way you described how to start the bike is exactly how I've always done it except with this new issue that is impossible or it will stall. Even if I pull that fast idle lever all the way, it'll sit at 1500rpms and jump up and down below 1,000rpms and then eventually stall. It would have sat at 2,000rpms previous to this issue (if the lever was pulled all the way) If the lever was all the way DOWN before, it'd have no problem stalling and would sit around 1,000rpms. Now of course it won't even hardly start at that position.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Tims_04V92TC View Post
Rough idle: How many miles you got? When is last time you cleaned TB's? When you cleaned them did you inspect the right side of the TB's for a vacum plug on each about mid section down? Very common to dry rot and cause your problem. What type of airfilter and when did you last clean/replace it. Im asking this as you said the new plugs helped alot so I gotta ask. Run 1/2 a can of seafoam (FI cleaner) through your next tank too.

See if you can put some replys up to these and hopefully we can help. Not saying your dealer aint right, just saying these things can all cause what your describing and the dollar investment is pennys to resolve. If you are unsure about how to clean the TB's let me know, will post the link to the thread or use the search featur and you will find it.
I don't know what TB's are, so I've definitely never cleaned them, nor do I know how to check them. I bought the bike 4 years ago, but the guy I bought it from had gone blind (~70yrs old) so it was sitting for 3yrs in his garage. He claimed he didn't know the spedometer/odometer had stopped working (who knows if that was a lie?) but since then I haven't bothered to fix either. The odometer had 6,500miles on it and I've probably put 7,000 miles on it. I ride it everyday to work that I can, which is 25miles round trip and I've taken it on quite a few rides.

I've never even checked the air filter and am feeling like even more of a moron. What is seafoam cleaner for the gas ? Shoot man, you tell me what to get and I'm going to be trying it for sure.

I VERY much appreciate your time.... thanks a lot man!!!
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-06-2013, 09:15 PM
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Milage: He prob wasnt lying about the milage, if I remember right that speedo could dump if you allowed the battery to run all the way down. it had a built in backup that eventually comes loose and then it relys on the bike batt. TB cleaning is about a 8-10K good thing to do on this motor.

Running voltage: Volt meter at some point, check idle and about 1500 I would guess. I really doubt you have anything going on there but none the less rule out what it is not.

Airfilter: A pic of your bike would tell what airbox is on, stock or modified. If stock, just forward of your fuel tank on left hand side you will see the access cover with a bunch of little holes in it. Sometimes hard to get back in without a little persuation. Stock paper or could have a K&N style. Google is your friend. I would go to the vic site and download a user manual for an 02 if they got it or 03 which I know they do.

Also can search BeBob under the performance tech forum searching for bebob service manual. He has alot of our service manuals on PDF. This will help with the TB cleaning and such.

TB cleaning: For cleaners Seafoam is a brand (liquid for the gas tank and aerosol for the TB cleaning) but if your neck of the woods dont have it go to your auto parts store and just ask for their recommmendation for a aerosol TB cleaner and a liquid Fuel Injector cleaner and follow the directions per gallon for the liquid in the tank. Follow the thread, if you need more info Post or PM. In the mean time if you squat down on the right side of the bike, look between the cans up under the tank those are the TB's and you SHOULD see a vacum port that is capped off on each one of them. If dry rotted or missing this could be your culprit. When you do get around to cleaning the TB's, inspect the rubber for cracks that they are mounted into that connects to the cans. Hope that makes sense.

Ok, my shift is over and heading home. Hope this helps ya bud.

Tim

2011 White Vision - Nuvi 550, Lowers, Lloydz 2nd filter, Vic perf filter, CB/Icom, 96 Brake LED's, Clear Signal lens/Switchbacks, VIC Hwy Pegs, Stebel Horn, 7Jurock 15" Shield, PCV, Lloyd ATS and Variable intake, Ness honkers

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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-06-2013, 10:13 PM
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Glad you were able to get back with him Tim.

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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-06-2013, 11:01 PM
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Try a TPS reset

Key on, kill switch on, engine off.
Do a slow ten count while rolling throttle to AGO.
Do another slow ten count and let throttle snap back.

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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-07-2013, 01:37 PM
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Hers a you tube vid on cleaning the throttle bodies I just did mine on my 00v92sc. I also used sea foam and a little bit of advise be ready for quite a bit of smoke when you start it up after cleaning. The sea foam did a great job but got me nervous for a few min when I thought the bike wasn't gonna stop smoking but it did. Unfortunately it didn't fix my problem but they def needed to be cleaned. So if your working in a garage definitely roll her outside before you hit the go go button good luck.


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