Battery: Have you cleaned the terminals and ensured good connections? Has battery been tested or does it seem week? (just seen your 2nd post) Did you try to jump start off a car at any time? Don't think your trickle caused anything from what you wrote. A weak battery will create all kinds of headache for the ECU. What is your volt output while running and while idle.
Battery terminals: Yeah I've cleaned them off and visually they look fine. I've never jumped it from a car for fear of ruining something, just the slow trickle charge. I've killed the battery probably 5 times since I bought the bike 4 years ago - every time because I'm an idiot and left it on, or thought I'd get one more ride in before winter, then never did and the battery died in the garage. I have no idea what the volt output is wihle running and while idle. I will have to get back to you on that one
Fast Idle Lever: You refered to it as joke and said your using it while riding. No choke on your bike and should not be using while riding unless your trying to use it as a throttle lock.. .lol... Proper start up as per LLoydz is Key on, wait for fuel pump to pressurize, pull fast idle lever down enough that it will give you around 1500 rpm and start. May take just a hair on the throttle to get this point down but your shooting for 1500 RPM for the warm up. Do NOT blip or rev, just start it with your handle bars to the left. After a couple minutes back it off until you got your idle of 1000 +/-50. You will notice it backs off itself if you turn bars to right.
I'm a moron, I meant to type "choke" but if it's actually called a fast idle lever, then my bad. Even the Victory dealer called it a choke though!
I don't use it while riding, I only switch it on when I'm parked or at a stop light because it sucks to stall out in traffic. The way you described how to start the bike is exactly how I've always done it except with this new issue that is impossible or it will stall. Even if I pull that fast idle lever all the way, it'll sit at 1500rpms and jump up and down below 1,000rpms and then eventually stall. It would have sat at 2,000rpms previous to this issue (if the lever was pulled all the way) If the lever was all the way DOWN before, it'd have no problem stalling and would sit around 1,000rpms. Now of course it won't even hardly start at that position.
Rough idle: How many miles you got? When is last time you cleaned TB's? When you cleaned them did you inspect the right side of the TB's for a vacum plug on each about mid section down? Very common to dry rot and cause your problem. What type of airfilter and when did you last clean/replace it. Im asking this as you said the new plugs helped alot so I gotta ask. Run 1/2 a can of seafoam (FI cleaner) through your next tank too.
See if you can put some replys up to these and hopefully we can help. Not saying your dealer aint right, just saying these things can all cause what your describing and the dollar investment is pennys to resolve. If you are unsure about how to clean the TB's let me know, will post the link to the thread or use the search featur and you will find it.
I don't know what TB's are, so I've definitely never cleaned them, nor do I know how to check them. I bought the bike 4 years ago, but the guy I bought it from had gone blind (~70yrs old) so it was sitting for 3yrs in his garage. He claimed he didn't know the spedometer/odometer had stopped working (who knows if that was a lie?) but since then I haven't bothered to fix either. The odometer had 6,500miles on it and I've probably put 7,000 miles on it. I ride it everyday to work that I can, which is 25miles round trip and I've taken it on quite a few rides.
I've never even checked the air filter and am feeling like even more of a moron.
What is seafoam cleaner for the gas ? Shoot man, you tell me what to get and I'm going to be trying it for sure.
I VERY much appreciate your time.... thanks a lot man!!!