1999 v92c Running Rough - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-21-2013, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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Default 1999 v92c Running Rough

I have recently purchased a pal's V92C. Love the bike. Has 23,500 miles on it and is in great shape. However, it is running rough - starts and if i don't have fast idle switch set on high it will stall/quit running. Doesn't want to keep a steady idle when it is stopped at a light either. Couple times as I was coming to a stoplight it stopped running. I was able to restart it and keep riding. Read a couple posts and told my buddy we needed to try to clean throttle body. Did that and hasn't really shown an improvement (other than it hasn't stopped running while coming up to a stoplight). Brand new battery. Brand new spark plugs. Premium gas is being used. I need help! Guy at the Vic shop said I probably needed to replace the entire throttle body - is this necessary?

Please help - I love this bike, just want her running smoothly!
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-21-2013, 04:31 PM
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The rubber connectors (the name escapes me at the moment) may have a little dry rot and/or cracks, letting in extra air...



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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-21-2013, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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How does one know whether the rubber connectors are bad?
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-21-2013, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctrain123 View Post
How does one know whether the rubber connectors are bad?
Spray aerosol at them, and see if that creates a change in idle RPM. If it does, you have a leak.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-21-2013, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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Where are the rubber connectors located? Sorry to be such a dope with this stuff.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-21-2013, 05:38 PM
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The rubber connector its called the throttle body adapter. It connects the throttle body to the intake ports of each cylinder. It is located between the cylinder heads behind those two chrome tubes that run oil into the heads. I recently replaced mine - check the cracks in the pics.

Another "run rough" possibility is the throttle position sensor calibration. It needs to be done every time power is removed from the engine computer - like a dead battery our disconnecting it to work on something.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-21-2013, 05:51 PM
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Another "run rough" possibility is the throttle position sensor calibration. It needs to be done every time power is removed from the engine computer - like a dead battery our disconnecting it to work on something.
Good point. Here's how to do the throttle point reset: https://www.victoryforums.com/showthread.php?t=5448.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-21-2013, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help - guess I am going to have to go after the throttle body adapter. Tried the reset and still not holding a steady idle. Any thoughts on where to order the throttle body adapter?
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-21-2013, 07:31 PM
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You will have to go to a dealer to get one. Mine cost between $75 and $100. I can't remember exactly.

The cracks were very obvious when the engine was running. Use a bright light. The engine sort of bounces on its mounts and the adapter acts like bellows. Another source of air leak are the two vacuum port caps on the throttle body itself - directly above the adapter. They get old and brittle.

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-21-2013, 09:49 PM
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The reset instructions given will do absolutely nothing on a 1999 V92C (it will work for a 2002 & up). To do a static reset on a 99 you have to jump the B & E pins in the diagnostic plug under your right side cover. If your looking at the plug with three pins on top - ABC is the top row & D E are the two bottom pins-so jumper the top center pin B, and the bottom right side pin E. So Make sure your idle adjustment lever is completely off & with the key off, place the jumper wire from pin B to pin E. Then, key ON for 30 seconds, key OFF, remove jumper. This is the starting point for further adjustments-sometimes it will run great with just this but to do it right you need to do a dynamic TPS adjustment - it takes about four pages to describe that process. Couple of other things to check-make sure the vent line from under your gas tank is clear & not pinched. Make sure the pre filters where the hoses connect to the gas tank are clean.
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