Rear Brake Issue - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-18-2011, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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Default Rear Brake Issue

I tried to change out my rear brake pads on Monday night. The directions are simple:
Remove cotter pin
Push retaining in back
Remove outside pad
Open bleeder and compress the pistons back
close bleeder
put in new outside pad
push caliper towards wheel
remove retaining pin all the way
put in new inside pad
put the retaining pin and cotter pin back

Now the ISSUE...I could not move caliper. I ended up forcing the inside pad on and now the brakes are lock (the inside pad is wedged on the rotor). I can't even push the bike. I google this issue the best that I could and found no solutions. It said that the V92's (mine is a 2000) have a floating rotor. Has anyone changed out the pad before and could offer any suggestions? The weather has been awesome and I'm starting to twitch from withdrawal.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-18-2011, 03:17 PM
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Your going the have to pull a pad. Now un bolt "caliper" from brake anchor. Now look at pistons and see if there out to far. If you can see a O ring then yes there out to far or look to see if piston is cocked. If you see O ring or they looked cocked your going to have to pull pistons and put back in and you should have dealer do that. You will need new O rings. Its tricky to get pistons out you need a air compressor and you can smash a finger or two. If no O ring set old pad in place and with a fat large screwdriver put between the pads and turn side ways. This should push piston back in. Get pistons in as far as you can or flush.Now put in new pads and reinstall and pump brakes to firm. If you do not get a firm pedal you'll have to bleed brakes.
If you have a caliper that is below axle you will have to un bolt the caliper from the anchor and get it up high. Air in the line will NOT go down hill. Air always goes to the highest point.
Next time DO NOT bleed brakes.
You should un bolt caliper from anchor twist back in forth till you can slid caliper off rotor then change pads.
Good luck

Last edited by visionjohnny; 05-18-2011 at 03:19 PM.
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-18-2011, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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VisionJohnny, I don't want to sound like a doofus, but I got the pads removed. Now can you tell me how to remove the calipers?

Also, if you can check out the photos. It will help explain what I am dealing with. One of the pictures shows the caliper on the rotor without pads and how offset it is, another shows how the pad will not fit on the inside, and the last shows how much space there is with the pad on the outside.

Maybe this will provide more info. Any suggestion would be appreciated.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-18-2011, 08:07 PM
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Should be two bolts that hold them to the mount.
Your last photo I can see one. It has the rubber ribbed boot. Your pistons look like there not out thats good.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-18-2011, 09:41 PM
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I'm not a mechanic and this is only a suggestion and if I'm wrong please correct me but wouldn't it be easier to push the pistons back if you loosen up the bleeder screw?

2003 Victory vegas
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-19-2011, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks VisionJohnny. I'll try to remove it tonight. But I'm kind of still at a lost. Isn't the caliper mounted in a fixed location? And it depends in the pistons to move the pad and the floating rotor to center itself during comression? If so, I'm not sure what I am supposed to look at when I remove the caliper.

Bad V V, the bleeder was open. That's how I was able to retract the pistons. The issue that I'm having is that it seems that the rotor seems too far towards the wheel, which makes it impossible to put the new pad on the inside without brutal force. I was able to get it in, but it was wedged to inside of the stationary part of the caliper and the rotor. It was wedged so tight that I couldn't move the bike afterwards.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-19-2011, 08:59 AM
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If I remember correctly, the rotor does not float.It is bolted directly to the wheel.I think that the caliper should float a little with the bracket in order to keep it centered with the rotor.Although,i could be wrong about that. I have replaced my rear pads twice and haven't had much trouble.Do you have a service manual? It should be able to guide in the right direction. My computer crashed a couple months ago and I lost everything on it,including my copy of the service manual on it.I have the actual service manual, but it is packed as we are moving.If I run across it today while loading, I will look this up for you.

'14 Ness XC
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-19-2011, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Tarzan. The steps listed in the original post was from my service manual. And you're right, the rotor is bolted to the wheel. But for some reason everything that I've found on Google says that it's a floating rotor(http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/mod...tory_v92sc.htm). I'll check out the caliper float issue.

Aha!!! That's probably what VisionJohnny was talking about. I'll check it out tonight.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-19-2011, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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Crud!!! No luck. I'm just going to have to put the old pads back on until I figure out what to do or get it to a dealer.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-22-2011, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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One last request guys. Can someone post a picture of what the assembled brake is supposed to look like. This will help me know what I am looking for once I finish.
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