You don't need test tool-simply jumping pins B & E in the test plug will put the system into calibrate mode. Pictures are courtesy of Roadkill Online where you can browse the images & Vic Tech archives for more maintenance info including setting the TPS-Thanks RK
here's the reset basics:
White diagnostic plug under the right-side cover: Pin B is middle of three, Pin E is second of two. Jumper - a 2-inch wire with alligator clips at each end.
Static TPS adjustment: Make sure fast idle lever is off - throttle plates must be totally closed. Install jumper, turn key on for 60 seconds, then off (no start). Resets the baseline readings from the TPS to the ECM. Makes the bike run pretty good.
Dynamic adjustment: Oil must be at normal operating temperature (194F or 100C), voltage must be at least 12.5, idle should be set to 800 (Polaris recommends a shop tach); and the engine needs a big fan or a real windy day. Install the jumper and then start the engine, run for at least a minute (runs rich for 900 revs). Turn the idle screw in 1/16th inch and wait 5 seconds - engine rpm increases slightly. Do this until rpm starts to decrease or engine runs rough. At that point turn the screw out 1/16th of an inch and viola! Remove the jumper, and shut off the engine
After calibration it's OK to increase rpm with the idle screw but NOT to decrease it - it'll throw the TPS out of adjustment. Polaris recommends 950 rpm. If it idles higher that's just the way it is - Polaris says anything up to 1300 is normal. Any modification to the engine, even normal wear and tear, requires recalibration.