'09 with 15k miles and runs like the engine is full of rocks. Mondo vibration. Been to the shop so many times I lost count. Has PCV, tried all maps, tried 3 settings of timing wheel. Feels like the crank bearings are bad. Ahhhhhhhhh!!!!:crying
Sorry to hear that. Have you checked all the mount points of the engine for tight connections. What have you (or a mechanic) done so far to correct this?
This is very atypical for a Victory. In fact in 10 years; this is the first time I've heard of this problem.
Tell us more. Does it happen at idle, when riding, in all gears and speeds? Is the engine pulley tight?
Runs fine up to 1200 rpm, then heavy vibration. I have another Jackpot and it runs great. Had this problem with my first Jackpot and it turned out to be a collapsed fuel line.
Dealer won't work on it because it has a PCV and they don't have software. Going to take the PCV off and start from scratch. Instincts tell me the fuel system is compromised somewhere. Giuess I'll just start with a new fuel pump and go from there.
I understand your frustration but it does sound like a very fixable issue. Perhaps if you had a competent Victory or Independent mechanic in your area that understands the very basic Power Commander tuners.
It may be the ECU needs to be reflashed/replaced or something like what you said; a fuel delivery issue from the injectors to the computer to the tune to the fuel pump.
Could be the PC-V failed too. I think you're smart to take it offline first.
Sheesh! Time for a new guy for sure. I lived in San Diego for 20 years. Got stationed there in the Navy then stayed until I couldn't bear it any longer due to prices and overpopulation.
Where is this mechanic? I doubt it's anyone I know since I've been gone for 20 years. Hmmm... 20 and 20.
It runs like it's full of rocks or it SOUNDS like it's full of rocks? If you want some internet troubleshooting, you will have to be far more specific on what the symptoms are.
If 'the shop' can't figure out what's wrong with it after trying more than once, I would assume 'the shop' is incompetent. It's just nuts and bolts and wires... either you know how to troubleshoot or you don't.
My apologies. I misquoted. That was BBob. Just the same, when they crap out so does a cylinder or two. Is it the issue? Maybe not ......but then just maybe....Again, please accept my apologies for misquoting. LMYR
Has anybody considered coating outside of the boots with High Temp Silicone to seal the cracks?
This would be a temporary fix of course but would let you know it this is really the issue.
Yes; it will work for a while. You could even make it last longer if needed by following up with a wrap of Gaffers or Electrical tape. Might even last years like that.
Funny. I've got a 15 yo KP with the original TB boots and it's still running fine after living in the desert and a dry hot climate for 7 years that I know of.
Granted; changing the boot is on my list of maintenance things to do and I even have a new boot I bought a couple of years ago. The bikes stay in their own bedroom (the garage) most the time and not out in the weather so maybe that's why it isn't all dry rotted. The rear tire lasted 11 years and it was just starting to show spider cracks.
The moral of the story is there isn't a set amount of time for rubber and/or plastic parts to dry out and get brittle. Lots of variables come into play like the climate it lives in and the mileage on the bike.
Took the PCV off and it's a tad better but I'd swear the crank is broken. Still runs like it's full of rocks. Not rideable. Noticed that the pipes are touching the engine in 3 places and the belt is tight as a banjo string.
Got an appointment at the Indian dealer on the 15th. A factory-certified Victory tech. is coming to take a look at it.
Interesting Thread. Think will checking a few things on my XC with it being 9 years old and High Humidity in FL although is running near perfect since got it .. 21,000 miles when got 23,000+ now.
Half_Crazy, Not taking anything personal.
I hate being a Shotgunner when it comes to fixing things and wasting my money. I like to know what exactly is wrong before replacing a part. So my question/fix was can heat resistant silicone be used as a temporary fix? This is to clearly identify that the boot is bad and needs replacing but still have some use of your bike while the part is being delivered and time found to install it.
I apologize if you took offence to any of my post as they were not intended to be offensive, but I probably could have chosen my words a little better.
Cured. Took the PCV off, took the Lloyd's timing wheel off, cleaned the intake, synced the butterflys and it runs decent now. It has been my experience with aftermarket stuff that all they do is screw it up.
That's fine for your experience but what about the hundreds of thousands (millions?) of others who didn't have that experience.
I remember when the PC-III had an abnormally high fail rate but that was corrected and made even better in the PC-V. Nothing electronic or mechanical is perfect. They all have a fail rate. Some are certainly better than others.
An old saying comes to mind. "If it has tits or wheels; at some point it will give you trouble". Seems appropriate in this case. I suppose a woman would change "tits" to "dicks" in that same saying and it would be equally true.
It's been my experience that people that don't know what the fuq they are doing with aftermarket/stock parts screw it up. Just sayin.
If the bike has an aftermarket cam and/or aftermarket intake and you've taken off the PCV you aren't going to be running it very long in it's cured state, it's going to be running incredibly lean and it WILL fry itself PDQ. Consider this a public service announcement so you aren't back in a few months telling us how much the bike sucks again.
Well, you can't argue with results. Before taking the tuner and timing wheel off, I refused to ride it because it ran so rough. Now, I'm riding it daily and it's still a little rough when you put the pedal to the metal, but vastly better.:devil
Running great is relative and subjective. In stock tune there's a lot of performance left on the table and that's certainly your prerogative to leave it there.
What you don't know is what caused the issue in the first place. It will always be a mystery.
GD Muffler bearing will get ya every time! Seriously. That's FUED .
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