Questions on brake upgrades and Hammer front end swap - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-08-2018, 01:02 AM Thread Starter
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Default Questions on brake upgrades and Hammer front end swap

So I laid my bike down today. A cager cut me off and then hit the brakes because the car in front stopped to turn. I was able to slow down some but was about to rear end the car that cut me off so I ended up locking up my back brake and sliding the bike. Luckily just some bruises for me and cosmetic damage the bike (I wanted to powder coat my tank anyway) but it really got me thinking that the stopping power on this this bike is lacking to say the least, especially coming off of 15 years of sport bikes which I could almost stop on a dime. This got me wondering what I could do improve my braking performance.

First idea was upgraded rotor and pads. I've read that some suggest EBC Pro-Lite rotor and HH pads. Would this be a sufficient upgrade in braking power? Looking at about $250 for the front upgrade alone.

Second idea was I kind of flirted with the idea of a Hammer front end swap when I first got the bike but never really pursued it. Now those dual front Brembo brakes are really enticing. I know the price would be much higher than just rotor and pads, but I gain the extra brake and inverted forks. I have a 14 Vegas what year range for forks should I be looking for that will bolt on?
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-08-2018, 02:45 AM
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Yes i also had a small accident, and changed my jackpot skinny 90/90 - 21 inch tire & single disk to

Fat tire 160/60 and RZ18 inch rim ...
Ok stopping distance will be almost same, (as per internet)

but a bigger rubber patch on the road surface

Pads i use Lindall-gold up front and EBC-HH on the rear

Things you need
1, master cylinder (optional)
2, tripple tree & forks & spacers etc
3, rim & tire
4, all brake lines & brake splitter
5, one more rotor & bolts

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Last edited by BP6666VR; 03-08-2018 at 03:18 AM.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-08-2018, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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What years will the forks/tree come from to fit my 14?
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-08-2018, 01:30 PM
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/09-Victory-...5akMiv&vxp=mtr

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-VICTOR...RaBd0y&vxp=mtr

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-08-2018, 01:34 PM
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Of course you would need triple trees, wheel, rotor front fender. brake lines. Maybe headlight, tire.

Buy the way I don't think you'll find a powder coater that will paint your tank seeing how they have to bake the paint on at 250 degrees. Wouldn't take much gas to blow up the place.

Might be farther a head to sell the bike

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-08-2018, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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I actually have that auction bookmarked but wanted to make sure before pulling the trigger. Was hoping no one else knew about it though so I had less people to bid against lol.

Not worth it to sell the bike over something this small. My powdercoater has already said he can do the tank and has done several others so he knows what hes doing. Worst case I just buy another undamaged tank.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-09-2018, 04:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Munkee915 View Post
I actually have that auction bookmarked but wanted to make sure before pulling the trigger. Was hoping no one else knew about it though so I had less people to bid against lol.

Not worth it to sell the bike over something this small. My powdercoater has already said he can do the tank and has done several others so he knows what hes doing. Worst case I just buy another undamaged tank.
That front end is good buying....Ive already got my Kingpin front fitted so ya dont have to worry about me bidding on it.
Im running an XC front wheel on mine with a damaged Kingpin fender I bought on US ebay got shipped here and repaired fairly successfully.
Youre lucky to be Stateside for cheaper and available used parts.
USD forks are nice for handling yet ride supple over bumps...and they look hot too.
Keep us informed.

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-09-2018, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Got em! Worked it out with the seller and got the forks, brakes, lines w/ splitter, and MC for $440 shipped. Will most likely go with new discs/pads anyways. For now planning to keep the 21" wheel but this will be a long term project for me so that may change later. First thing will be to have the shop coat them black so I dont lose the 8 ball look.

UPDATE: Thanks to todays ebay coupon, got the whole deal for $350 shipped!

2014 Vegas 8-Ball

Last edited by Munkee915; 03-09-2018 at 01:17 PM.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-09-2018, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BP6666VR View Post
Yes i also had a small accident, and changed my jackpot skinny 90/90 - 21 inch tire & single disk to

Fat tire 160/60 and RZ18 inch rim ...
Ok stopping distance will be almost same, (as per internet)

but a bigger rubber patch on the road surface

Pads i use Lindall-gold up front and EBC-HH on the rear

Things you need
1, master cylinder (optional)
2, tripple tree & forks & spacers etc
3, rim & tire
4, all brake lines & brake splitter
5, one more rotor & bolts

Andre using TaPaTaLk
Andre- is RZ18 the wheel model? What width is that & what's it normally come on? Thought you meant that it's off a yamaha RZ, but Yamaha lists that as a 17".
I have a bullfighter style project & wanting to use a fat front tire. Would love to understand your experience here!
I have Vegas, kingpin, and hammer front ends, so I can pick & choose whatever fits.
I have f/r hammer wheels and a front xc wheel, just hoping to go fatter up front without lacing up a wheel or paying $1500 for a custom wheel.
I was thinking about using a Vegas/kingpin rear wheel on front, but haven't tried to mock it up yet to see what would need machining on the hub to fit up front (will use the kingpin fork tubes to go with the single-brake wheel if I go this route).
Thanks - your setup gives another option!

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-09-2018, 10:49 AM
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Even tho my XR is a lot heavier than the OP's bike, occasionally I'd get rear wheel lockup. That's due to the weight transferring forward under braking and traction at the rear disappearing. I cured that by installing cheapie GG rated pads in the rear. Now I have way more control for hard braking and trail braking. Turns out, the original pads were HH - too powerful for good control IMO. In the front, I have EBC HH; a dramatic improvement over the original balsa wood pads. I'm still shaking my head about that - why would a factory install grabby pads in the rear and mushy ones in the front? Makes no sense to me.
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