VFC Settings For 2005 Ness Kingpin
I picked up a garage find, a 2005 Ness Kingpin with only 110 miles. She had been started once a month, oil changed every year with receipts, picked her up dirt cheap. I put on new tires, added the tach kit, cut down RPW Slash pipes, S&S intake, Metz 888's, Oak Creek Cycles bar/backrest, Memphis Shades Hellcat Smoke/Clear and a bunch of chrome. I have the miles up to 353 after the mods as of today. I lurked and read a ton deciding what to do and how to do it. The thing that was most frustrating was the VFC 3 info on here. I know you have to be specific to each bike, but I really got frustrated that no one explained this in a straightforward manner. If you got a VFC, no matter the number, installed it on a bike, no matter the year, here is the simple skinny.
Just like the directions say, it turns tuning an EFI into tuning a jetted carb.
You have three primary influences. Green is idle and cruise circuit. Yellow is the accelerator pump, Red are the back jets. Yellow/blue is the equivalent of the spring tension in the accelerator pump and Red/blue is the back float height.
Follow the baseline settings for starters. Work out the feel of the idle first by letting out the clutch and keeping it under 15mph. Mushy feel, back down the settings, jerky, ramp 'em up. When you think you have the takeoff feel right, run her in 2nd and see if she surges or mushes. Same principle. If she surges, up the setting. If she mushes, take her down.
Get that feel right and start, then leave it alone.
The yellow is to make it feel smooth and pull hard when you hit the throttle. You want a seamless transition when you open her up. Smooth, even transfer, no loss of power. Same rules apply as with the green settings. Hiccups or jerks, ramp her up. Slush or hesitation, back her down.
Now for the red. This is like a carb when you have transitioned from the front barrels to the back barrels and bottomed out the floats. You are running purely on the size of your jets and their ability to deliver fuel. Similar tactics apply here. Get on the highway, open it up and keep the throttle cranked. If you feel it sputter, up the setting. If you find a flat spot, crank it down.
Once you get the green, yellow and red figured out, now you have "jetted, springed and floated" your carb (ala EFI).
The last two settings are purely preference for how you run.
Yellow/Blue is the timing adjustment for when your accelerator pump kicks in. (Spring strength) You are either going to prefer to hit it right off the bat (least desirable for hole shots as the Venturi Effect gets cavitated, meaning it can't suck enough air wth the gas), or you want what most of us do, neck slamming punch, or to kick in late (helps the top end a bit but not much effect before the red circuit kicks in). Most prefer a setting between 3-5, YMMV. If you have the other three set as described above, you will feel the subtle differences here.
Last is the Red/Blue. This is the timing of WOT. Set too quick, it lugs. Set too late, it flattens out. You want it to be a smooth transfer from the yellow circuit to the red. Most set this at 2-4, closer to 2 seems to fit more bikes.
This was not meant to be the say all - do all - Gospel Bible preachin'. I am sure I will get blown up over it, but I am trying to help the guys that are just starting to get into the brotherhood of performance bikes, DIY, and the freedom to choose for themselves without spending $$$ at the dealer or shop every time they turn around.
Good luck, I hope this helps someone. Be careful, be safe, turn your brain on before your key.