Join Date: Sep 2010
By now, you have noticed more reasons you traded your Harley than you had ever imagined. The clunking will diminish with time, but going from neutral to first will always produce one due to the residual oil between the clutch plates causing it to continue spinning. No harm in that.
I am no oil expert and what I know I have learned from extensive reading and this forum, where there are many oil threads and I don't want to start one here. This I do know; any oil with a JASO-MA (or better yet JASO-MA2) is OK for bikes with a wet clutch. Many here, including frugal me, are using Rotella T-6 full synthetic oil with excellent results. One member had it analyzed and the lab sez its good for well over 7K miles. I buy it on sale and with a coupon and the price ends up under $20 for a gallon.
However, I put the Vic oil in at the 500 mile service, but from the next on change on I went to Rotella T-6.
Take it easy per the manual for the first miles, but remember to vary engine speed constantly during that initial period. After the first 100-200 miles and occasional foray into higher revs aids in a good break-in. I'm talking over 3500 RPMs--this is not your H-D engine, its much more advanced. At the factory, every bike gets revved to redline at the end of assembly,so you ain't gonna hurt it.
2010 Midnight Cherry XR. 7Jurock, Lloydz AF, ATS, AFR tuned VFCIII, IAV, and T-6 and locally repacked pipes = big smiles. SOLD
to a dear friend, so it's still in the family."
2017 Spyder F3 Limited - keeps this old guy in the wind and riding with friends.
Cure that ugly stand up license plate with the cheapest and best laydown bracket. Click this: