Suicide's Timing Wheel Install and FEAK OUT - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-09-2014, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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Default Suicide's Timing Wheel Install and FEAK OUT

I rode home from work yesterday and forgot today was delivery day. LIKE CHRISTMAS that beautiful brown box on my doorstep. A quick run to the store for some beers and loctite and IT WAS ON!

I thought about doing a "How To" on the Lloydz timing wheel but thought, "Eh, there is the Vic Shop video and a lot of other threads out there already." I wish I had taken photos for the Judge owners specifically. So a couple of my own TIPS and things I learned should help the next Judge owner should they decide to do this themselves. I had one "Oh SH!T' moment which is explained below.

(NOTE: THIS IS A 2013 JUDGE with 8k miles, I'll insert pics where appropriate a little later)

TIPS AND LEARNINGS

1. DO IT WITH YOUR BIKE WARM. Heat expands metal stuff. I let my bike sit for about an hour and half and thought it would be cooled down enough. The timing cover was still hot to the touch but I couldn't wait anymore. GLAD I DIDN'T. I thnk because the bike was warm the install was super easy. I just put some gloves on and dove in.

I believe because the bike was warm none of the bolts gave me problems, the stock wheel came RIGHT OFF, the gasket peeled off with ease. I've read tons of threads where people had a tough time getting the stock wheel off and had to use something pry it off. I've read countless people's comments that "The most time consuming part is cleaning the gasket surface off

2. CHECK TORQUE SETTINGS ON THE TWO BOLTS OF THE TIMING WHEEL. Don't assume they are tourqed at Lloydz, mine were NOT which is understandable. Nowhere did I see in my research they were already torqued so that would have been a huge assumption on my part. I was in such a rush to get done that I almost did not do it....but the anal retentive, OCD, DO SHITE RITE Marine in me did. Glad I did, enough said.

3. DO NOT COMPLETELY REMOVE THE FRONT BOLT OF YOUR BREAK ASSEMBLY. This is where I freaked. The down tube is set to the bottom of the frame with that bolt. If you remove it completely the weight on the down tube will cause the holes to shift and you won't be able to iput the bolt back in without manually aligning the holes by prying the down tube forward. Simply loosen enough so that when the rear bolt is removed the break assempbly can rotate out of the way for that pesky lower bolt at 6 O'clock on timing cover can be removed. If by some chance you didn't see this and now you're frantically looking for "WTF happened" info like I almost did, check out the video below and it explains what I did. Super simple, but nowhere did I read or see anywhere in my research that this would happen. LINK TO VIDEO



4. PULL STOCK GASKET FROM THE INNER SIDE OF CASING. One thing I hate is cleaning gasket remains off an aluminum surface. Again, I think the heat was helpful but to minimize how much crap you'll need to remove from the surface, take two fingers and pull the gasket from inside the casing. Gently pull and make your way around and you'll have minimal gasket to clean off. I had two spots that were about 1/8 that didn't come off and I got that off with my super special gasket removal tool (my thumbnailon my right hand).

5. LOCTITE - Red for center, blue for everything else. The center bolt uses red loctite, it's the HEAVY DUTY YOU AIN'T GETTING THIS SHITE OFF kind. When I pulled that one it was obvious there was red loctite in there, it was visible on the bolt and the crap that came out as I removed it. Again, some folks have said the center bolt was a PITA to get out or it would have been faster with an air wrench. I didn't have an issue in beaking that red loctite or getting out quickly with my socket wrench because it was warm/heated.

6. LOOSEN THE HEAT SHIELDS IF YOU'RE ANAL. The 9 and 6 O'clock bolts are VERY close to the heatshields and my socket was very light rubbing against my stock heat shields. You can loosen the heatshields so this doesn't happen, I chose not to and it wasn't a big deal.

All in all SUPER EASY install. If you can change your oil, you can do this. I've turned my fair share of wrenches in my time on anything with a motor. Most of my experience is through hands on learning, and I have made my share of mistakes(big ones). I'm not professing to be a Vic expert or know more than the next guy, but I know I've learned a great deal by reading threads like this one over the years.

Ride Report:

All around definitely worth it but there is one thing that I absolutely HATE about this thing. This is the first real mod I've completed on my bike so everything else is stock except for my exahust which is just a slightly modified stock set up. The wheel is set at +4. Anyhow, I rode to work this morning, my normal 35 mile morning routine. Definitely feels, uh...BETTER? Here are my initial impressions.

1. Easier power delivery. Just feels smoother and stronger getting through the RPMs up and down.
2. I could easily feel the diiference betwee 2500-3000 rpm, REALLY felt the difference from there on up.
3. Less, almost NO popping. With my slightly gutted pipes my bike is prone to the occasional pop/pop. Didn't hear a single one this morning. I don't mind the popping but i know some folks are annoyed by it.
4. MPGS? - I'll update that later
5. ENGINE HEAT decrease? Not sure yet.
6. No pinging, I think I may try +6 after a couple of tanks.

So, the one thing I absolutely HATE about this timing wheel is that it has made me realize just how restrictive the stock airbox is. I feel like my bike has asthma. So, up next is an air box. DAMN YOU Lloydz!! Oh, if you haven't guessed by now I'm very pleased with the purchase so far. I sure as hell got to work a lot faster.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-10-2014, 07:32 PM
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What air box are you planning on getting?

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-10-2014, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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S&S most likely, I would LOVE the Torque Tubes but that is not in my spending zone

Hell I may need to go with the "High Perf" Vic filter, better than stock but sure as hell not a set of TT's or S&S
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-11-2014, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SUICIDE CHARLEY View Post
S&S most likely, I would LOVE the Torque Tubes but that is not in my spending zone

Hell I may need to go with the "High Perf" Vic filter, better than stock but sure as hell not a set of TT's or S&S
Before you go the airbox route try the K&N filter. Costs around $60 & allows more air to flow..Put it on mine, big difference.

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-11-2014, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SUICIDE CHARLEY View Post
Hell I may need to go with the "High Perf" Vic filter, better than stock but sure as hell not a set of TT's or S&S
Quote:
Originally Posted by hky-glie View Post
Before you go the airbox route try the K&N filter. Costs around $60 & allows more air to flow..Put it on mine, big difference.
Yeah, it's more in my spending zone. Although, my birthday is only 6 months away lol.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-11-2014, 03:39 PM
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This is one of the best named threads I've seen in a long time makes you look to see what's up.

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-02-2014, 02:00 PM
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Thanks for posting this guide man.

I put mine in over the weekend. It took me about 2 hours because the gasket was an absolute bitch, and I had never removed one before that was so gummed to metal. My only other experience with gaskets was replacing the carburetor on my 79 oldsmobile in the winter

Anyway, I managed to do everything on a cold engine, everything aside from the gasket came off and on easy peasy. If it weren't for that gasket, it probably would have only taken me 30 mins. The forward controls tip saved my butt!

I started it at +4, torqued the bolts good.

Now I haven't ridden it much, and I haven't taken it for an illegally good time yet to test performance, but for the commute to and from work the last 2 days, it does seem to have more snap.

I'm thinking though that my clutch, even at full grab is slipping. I recently had my first service done for 5000kms, and had the techs check the clutch inside the casing for any issues and also had them check to make sure it was adjusted properly. The reason I asked them to do that is that I have an easy pull clutch arm. The techs were satisfied I had adjusted it properly. The RPM's at full release just don't feel like they are fully transfering to the rear wheel. It's one of those feelings. Especially since I also have a highball, and that monster transfers power really tightly to the rear wheel. spinning the tires on that, completely stock, is a piece of cake compared to the judge, which feels like slipping. Anyways...

The only other performance upgrade I've got in it is a K&N filter replacement. only about $300 CAD in total.

I'm gonna dabble this week and see how far I can get the timing to go, but overall, for a motorcycle rookie, piece of cake! Much appreciated,

Now to find a clutch upgrade
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-02-2014, 05:13 PM
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Didnt have any issues with the down tube on my Vegas, If my K&N filter will fit your bike you can have mine if you want, just pay shipping.

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-02-2014, 07:35 PM
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Great write up, glad you did it. The more I read the more I just want to start off at +6 when I do my install. Anybody disagree with that thinking? Also, my buddy has a 12 Vegas 8 ball and his airbox is solid in the front, mine has a large rectangular opening in the front exposing the filter. Is this the stage one mod or something else? Sorry to Jack the thread, dog, just trying to figure this out.

2010 Victory Jackpot, Elkton, Va in the Shenandoah Valley. Tequila gold, Ness Flybars, Victory HID conversion, Lloydz TTI, VM1 cams,PCV based by Rylan, RPW Bad Boy, Lloydz ATS, Lloydz IAV, K&P filter. Goal=106 @130hp
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-02-2014, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackpot! View Post
Great write up, glad you did it. The more I read the more I just want to start off at +6 when I do my install. Anybody disagree with that thinking?
What is your logic for the +6? Do you think that a little (+4) is good so more is better? If that's the case, why not go to +8. You don't buy a CASE of toilet paper every time you visit the bathroom do you? +2 might work even better than the +6. That determination actually would be influenced by your individual bike. You can try +6 or even +8 as it's your bike but heed the cautions of others for the tell-tale signs of engine damage that can result from setting it too far advanced (pinging from pre-mature detonation) and remember, you DID ask what others thought




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