I rode home from work yesterday and forgot today was delivery day. LIKE CHRISTMAS that beautiful brown box on my doorstep. A quick run to the store for some beers and loctite and IT WAS ON!
I thought about doing a "How To" on the Lloydz timing wheel but thought, "Eh, there is the Vic Shop video and a lot of other threads out there already." I wish I had taken photos for the Judge owners specifically. So a couple of my own TIPS and things I learned should help the next Judge owner should they decide to do this themselves. I had one "Oh SH!T' moment which is explained below.
(NOTE: THIS IS A 2013 JUDGE with 8k miles, I'll insert pics where appropriate a little later)
TIPS AND LEARNINGS
1. DO IT WITH YOUR BIKE WARM. Heat expands metal stuff. I let my bike sit for about an hour and half and thought it would be cooled down enough. The timing cover was still hot to the touch but I couldn't wait anymore. GLAD I DIDN'T. I thnk because the bike was warm the install was super easy. I just put some gloves on and dove in.
I believe because the bike was warm none of the bolts gave me problems, the stock wheel came RIGHT OFF, the gasket peeled off with ease. I've read tons of threads where people had a tough time getting the stock wheel off and had to use something pry it off. I've read countless people's comments that "The most time consuming part is cleaning the gasket surface off
2. CHECK TORQUE SETTINGS ON THE TWO BOLTS OF THE TIMING WHEEL. Don't assume they are tourqed at Lloydz, mine were NOT which is understandable. Nowhere did I see in my research they were already torqued so that would have been a huge assumption on my part. I was in such a rush to get done that I almost did not do it....but the anal retentive, OCD, DO SHITE RITE Marine in me did. Glad I did, enough said.
3. DO NOT COMPLETELY REMOVE THE FRONT BOLT OF YOUR BREAK ASSEMBLY. This is where I freaked. The down tube is set to the bottom of the frame with that bolt. If you remove it completely the weight on the down tube will cause the holes to shift and you won't be able to iput the bolt back in without manually aligning the holes by prying the down tube forward. Simply loosen enough so that when the rear bolt is removed the break assempbly can rotate out of the way for that pesky lower bolt at 6 O'clock on timing cover can be removed. If by some chance you didn't see this and now you're frantically looking for "WTF happened" info like I almost did, check out the video below and it explains what I did. Super simple, but nowhere did I read or see anywhere in my research that this would happen. LINK TO VIDEO
4. PULL STOCK GASKET FROM THE INNER SIDE OF CASING. One thing I hate is cleaning gasket remains off an aluminum surface. Again, I think the heat was helpful but to minimize how much crap you'll need to remove from the surface, take two fingers and pull the gasket from inside the casing. Gently pull and make your way around and you'll have minimal gasket to clean off. I had two spots that were about 1/8 that didn't come off and I got that off with my super special gasket removal tool (my thumbnailon my right hand).
5. LOCTITE - Red for center, blue for everything else. The center bolt uses red loctite, it's the HEAVY DUTY YOU AIN'T GETTING THIS SHITE OFF kind. When I pulled that one it was obvious there was red loctite in there, it was visible on the bolt and the crap that came out as I removed it. Again, some folks have said the center bolt was a PITA to get out or it would have been faster with an air wrench. I didn't have an issue in beaking that red loctite or getting out quickly with my socket wrench because it was warm/heated.
6. LOOSEN THE HEAT SHIELDS IF YOU'RE ANAL. The 9 and 6 O'clock bolts are VERY close to the heatshields and my socket was very light rubbing against my stock heat shields. You can loosen the heatshields so this doesn't happen, I chose not to and it wasn't a big deal.
All in all SUPER EASY install. If you can change your oil, you can do this. I've turned my fair share of wrenches in my time on anything with a motor. Most of my experience is through hands on learning, and I have made my share of mistakes(big ones). I'm not professing to be a Vic expert or know more than the next guy, but I know I've learned a great deal by reading threads like this one over the years.
All around definitely worth it but there is one thing that I absolutely HATE about this thing. This is the first real mod I've completed on my bike so everything else is stock except for my exahust which is just a slightly modified stock set up. The wheel is set at +4. Anyhow, I rode to work this morning, my normal 35 mile morning routine. Definitely feels, uh...BETTER? Here are my initial impressions.
1. Easier power delivery. Just feels smoother and stronger getting through the RPMs up and down.
2. I could easily feel the diiference betwee 2500-3000 rpm, REALLY felt the difference from there on up.
3. Less, almost NO popping. With my slightly gutted pipes my bike is prone to the occasional pop/pop. Didn't hear a single one this morning. I don't mind the popping but i know some folks are annoyed by it.
4. MPGS? - I'll update that later
5. ENGINE HEAT decrease? Not sure yet.
6. No pinging, I think I may try +6 after a couple of tanks.
So, the one thing I absolutely HATE about this timing wheel is that it has made me realize just how restrictive the stock airbox is. I feel like my bike has asthma. So, up next is an air box. DAMN YOU Lloydz!! Oh, if you haven't guessed by now I'm very pleased with the purchase so far. I sure as hell got to work a lot faster.