Twin discs on a Kingpin Front End? - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 57 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 06:58 AM Thread Starter
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Default Twin discs on a Kingpin Front End?

Is it possible? What parts are needed?
Bottom leg off a Cross bike fit?
Anyone here done it?
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Victory Vegas 2010
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" " 495 cams
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" " timing wheel @4 deg.
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post #2 of 57 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 07:22 AM
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Hammer right slider, rotor, caliper, wheel, reservoir, and lines.
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2006 Victory Kingpin
Lloydz 116" Stroker/Big Bore, .495 Cams, Torque Tubes Airbox,
RPW Thor Pipe, Lloydz ECU Flash, PC-III, PTS (-2), Rivera
Primo Clutch Spring, 31 Tooth Pulley w/Buell Belt.

Last edited by half_crazy; 07-17-2017 at 07:26 AM.
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post #3 of 57 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 07:27 AM
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What makes you think you want dual rotors?

2006 Victory Kingpin
Lloydz 116" Stroker/Big Bore, .495 Cams, Torque Tubes Airbox,
RPW Thor Pipe, Lloydz ECU Flash, PC-III, PTS (-2), Rivera
Primo Clutch Spring, 31 Tooth Pulley w/Buell Belt.
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post #4 of 57 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 07:31 AM
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When I looked you need the entire front fork assembly to attach both rotors. The stock forks only have the bolt holes on 1 side. A used hammer fork setup runs around 1100 bucks, plus rotors disks, etc...too much. Rode a hammer and didn't feel too great a difference to be honest. My single KP rotor seems fine. I brushed the idea off.

At first it sounded good but a lot of beans for a little more stopping power I could barely discern wasn't a good trade off for me.

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post #5 of 57 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 08:41 AM
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The single rotor on the KP is plenty of stopping power.. the only thing that the 2nd disk would get you is better braking over time of use.. 2 disks won't stop you any faster per se. but you will have less fade on the brakes if you're using them heavily, like hauling a heavy weight (not talking about the old lady here guys) but something like a trailer, down a mountain. I had thought about doing it on my bike.. but even hauling a 500 lb trailer behind me AND a passenger I never felt I was pushing the limit of my braking. The engine braking on these bike is so good I never even really wore out my brake pads much to be honest.
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post #6 of 57 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by half_crazy View Post
What makes you think you want dual rotors?
Cos the brakes in these things leave a lot to be desired, jumping from my twin disc over 30 yrs old gpz to the Vegas felt like I had no brakes till I became accustomed.
Don't wanna get into a debate about whether or not I need em, just wanna know what I need to do it.
Thanks for the info HC

Victory Vegas 2010
Lloydz 109"cube big bore
" " 495 cams
" " TorqueTubes
" " timing wheel @4 deg.
" " Primary plate
" " IAV
RPW Slash pipes
PCV
Progressive 465 rear shock
Kingpin USD Forks
18" XC front wheel
1 3/4" 'Burleigh Bars'
Stebel air horn
12.106 @110.90mph
114/123

Victory Cross Country 2010 (106)
Lloyds air filter
" " VM1 Cams
Home gutted exhaust
Maximus
Both tuned by [email protected] Dyno
110/116

Gold Coast
Australia
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post #7 of 57 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorbikerx View Post
Cos the brakes in these things leave a lot to be desired, jumping from my twin disc over 30 yrs old gpz to the Vegas felt like I had no brakes till I became accustomed.
Don't wanna get into a debate about whether or not I need em, just wanna know what I need to do it.
Thanks for the info HC
Have you tried upgrading the single disc? It's cheaper...
I use EBC Pro-Lite rotors and sintered HH brake pads. I can lock the front wheel at 70 mph with 2 fingers on the lever.

Really, braking force is limited to how much traction the front tire has. If you can lock the front tire, that's all the braking you can use. The advantage 2 dual rotors is resisting fade. If you were doing several stops from high speed in a row the single rotor/caliper would heat-fade quickly.

I don't do repeated stops from high speed, so I never heat-faded the brakes on the ol' KP.
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2006 Victory Kingpin
Lloydz 116" Stroker/Big Bore, .495 Cams, Torque Tubes Airbox,
RPW Thor Pipe, Lloydz ECU Flash, PC-III, PTS (-2), Rivera
Primo Clutch Spring, 31 Tooth Pulley w/Buell Belt.
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post #8 of 57 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurbs View Post
When I looked you need the entire front fork assembly to attach both rotors.
You only need this part of the fork. You take the fork apart and replace this part of it.
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2006 Victory Kingpin
Lloydz 116" Stroker/Big Bore, .495 Cams, Torque Tubes Airbox,
RPW Thor Pipe, Lloydz ECU Flash, PC-III, PTS (-2), Rivera
Primo Clutch Spring, 31 Tooth Pulley w/Buell Belt.
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post #9 of 57 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by half_crazy View Post
Have you tried upgrading the single disc? It's cheaper...
I use EBC Pro-Lite rotors and sintered HH brake pads. I can lock the front wheel at 70 mph with 2 fingers on the lever.

Really, braking force is limited to how much traction the front tire has. If you can lock the front tire, that's all the braking you can use. The advantage 2 dual rotors is resisting fade. If you were doing several stops from high speed in a row the single rotor/caliper would heat-fade quickly.

I don't do repeated stops from high speed, so I never heat-faded the brakes on the ol' KP.
Ive gone to Lyndalls pads they're far better than the stock wooden ones.
Ive never faded the single disc yet.
Twin discs look better too...more balanced.
Been keeping a look out for a Hammer S write off that's been hit up the backside but nothings come up yet.
Kingpins full valanced fender looks pretty cool though and would keep the dirt off the front of my bike better.
My Vegas front all the crappy OEM clear is lifting and the fork legs pitted, shitty clears lifting on the triple trees so soon be looking at removing the front end for a total revamp, strip the clear and polish the alloy.
Replace the steering head bearings with tapered rollers too while I'm at it.

Oh yeah booked in for a proper tune to get those A/F's pulled into line, Fred from Procycle agrees with You and Kevinx on how messy the fuelling is, and "will never make good top end power running that rich"
Aug 2nd is the day, at lunchtime, will be ready then for a run on the local strip then I got a day before Ill ride 7 hours north to race proper.
Hopefully it'll all come together that weekend and all the trials and tribulation, waiting, heartaches and bullshit will be behind me...was gonna run Wed night at the local but I don't think I can go any quicker on that tune.
Would like to try some clutchless runs on the strip though, what changes smooth on the street should change equally well at 6K on the track?
After midnight here, Ill read your answer in the morning,.
Goodnight all.
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Victory Vegas 2010
Lloydz 109"cube big bore
" " 495 cams
" " TorqueTubes
" " timing wheel @4 deg.
" " Primary plate
" " IAV
RPW Slash pipes
PCV
Progressive 465 rear shock
Kingpin USD Forks
18" XC front wheel
1 3/4" 'Burleigh Bars'
Stebel air horn
12.106 @110.90mph
114/123

Victory Cross Country 2010 (106)
Lloyds air filter
" " VM1 Cams
Home gutted exhaust
Maximus
Both tuned by [email protected] Dyno
110/116

Gold Coast
Australia
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post #10 of 57 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 12:50 PM
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