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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-04-2014, 03:34 AM Thread Starter
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Default Fly bars installation advice?

I will be installing a set of Arlen Fly Bars on my 2007 Kingpin, has anyone done this and any advice before I get started? I'm told that they work with stock cables, correct? Also would you use locktite and what would you torque them to? thanks
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-04-2014, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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Also I would like to remove the stock grips and install them on the fly bars. Any tips on removing the clutch side grip without damaging it? Does the end cap come off first or does it come off with the grip?

I've had good luck in the past removing clutch side grips by wrapping it first with a very hot wet towel, letting it sit a few minutes then twisting it off. The heat loosens the glue.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-04-2014, 09:56 PM
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Just installed a set of fly bars tonight u can check it out in the jackpot forums, it's easy man take your time. I wrapped a towel over my tank so when I took everything off they wouldn't scrap when hanging, the throttle an the high idle switch (if yours is newer you might get lucky an not have the idle switch). There nice looking bars, I had my dealer install my grips on my older bar an they had to cut them off so you might be SOL on that.

I have no idea how much torque they use putting the nuts on by the bushings but they were tight! So I did the same.

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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-04-2014, 11:11 PM
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I was able to take the clutch side grip off by using a small flat screwdriver and gently working it between grip and bar, no damage, but be patient. End caps come off first. Bars are to be tightened to 40 ft/lbs. A blanket or towel on the gas tank is a must, stock cables workfine.

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Last edited by blacksheep1; 08-04-2014 at 11:15 PM.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-05-2014, 05:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacksheep1 View Post
I was able to take the clutch side grip off by using a small flat screwdriver and gently working it between grip and bar, no damage, but be patient. End caps come off first. Bars are to be tightened to 40 ft/lbs. A blanket or towel on the gas tank is a must, stock cables workfine.
Excellent, thanks guys! Did you use locktite?
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-05-2014, 07:23 AM
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No, only because it didn't look like they used it from factory

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-05-2014, 10:04 AM
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Before you get started, make sure the studs in the new bars are the same size and length as yours, and the threads go up far enough to tighten them up. Some of the Fly bars (maybe for the Hammer?) have different size studs, 10mm vs 8mm ?, with different length threads. Nothing worse than getting it torn down only to find out you can't tighten them up with out replacing the studs. You may need different size nuts if the new bars did not come with them. I would be tempted to use lock nuts with the nylon insert anyway.
Also, I seem to remember the Ness Fly bars do not completely cover the bushings in the triple the way your stock risers do. Some folks don't mind, but to me it looks unfinished and allows water to collect in the triple and rust the bushings.
You used to be able to get machined riser cups that gave a finished look, but I have not seen a set available in years.

The Ness Fly bars look cool with the solid risers, but I hope you're ok with the non-adjustable height and the different stance.

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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-05-2014, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketo View Post
Before you get started, make sure the studs in the new bars are the same size and length as yours, and the threads go up far enough to tighten them up. Some of the Fly bars (maybe for the Hammer?) have different size studs, 10mm vs 8mm ?, with different length threads. Nothing worse than getting it torn down only to find out you can't tighten them up with out replacing the studs. You may need different size nuts if the new bars did not come with them. I would be tempted to use lock nuts with the nylon insert anyway.
Also, I seem to remember the Ness Fly bars do not completely cover the bushings in the triple the way your stock risers do. Some folks don't mind, but to me it looks unfinished and allows water to collect in the triple and rust the bushings.
You used to be able to get machined riser cups that gave a finished look, but I have not seen a set available in years.

The Ness Fly bars look cool with the solid risers, but I hope you're ok with the non-adjustable height and the different stance.
Wow, excellent advice! I have a 2007 Kingpin Tour and the set I bought (used) was on a 2006 Jackpot. The seller said the part number is 2878125-156. Any idea if these will work fine on my bike or if I may have some of the issues you pointed out?
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-05-2014, 11:18 AM
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I remember reading somewhere that the different part numbers distinguish between colors (chrome or black) an whether or not they are per drilled for the newer style (2008 I believe) controls.

I have a set to instal on my 2008 this weekend so will be following this thread.

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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-13-2014, 07:41 PM
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Just installed mine today:

1. I had a shop manual that said to unhook all the cables etc.. I didn't and adjustments for me were fine when completed. You still should check adjustment.

2. Used the towel (used 2) on the tank trick - thanks. Also used one on front fender and a small one over headlight.

3. hung master cylinder and clutch reservoir from pieces of line suspended from my garage door tracks, until new bars were installed. Let switch modules hang somewhere where they wouldn't scratch.

3b. Also disconnected clutch safety switch and front brake light switch when separating lever and reservoirs from switch modules.

3c. Loosened and tightened handlebar studs from behind triple trees with wheel turned hard one way and then other way.

3d. I took throttle off the bars without loosening cable adjustments. I did this by removing bars from triple trees and moving bars to the left side of bike allowing me to slid the throttle from the originally. Similarly I slid throttle and grip onto new bars before inserting studs into triple trees. Note: I left old bars attached to rises and removed rises and bars as a unit.

4. Was able to use plastic (dart inserted into bars) cable guide on right side only. Left side was too tight to use.

5. Shop manual says 40 ft-lbs for bar studs. My bars don't seem tight enough now? Maybe because I notice it now?? Haven't ridden yet, its raining.

6. I have after market grips. Left has 3-set screws. Do these go into holes (do I have to drill bars) or just tighten against bars?

7. Clamps for master cylinder and clutch are tightened but I can still force them to turn on bars?

8. I didn't use locktite. Should I have?

9. Pictures later.

9b. Bars don't look finished where they go into triple trees? Think I remember reading that there are 1/2" risers that will greatly improve the look of this?

10. Cant wait to ride!

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Last edited by deepstuff; 08-13-2014 at 08:47 PM.
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