Squishy Front Forks - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-04-2015, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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Default Squishy Front Forks

Okay, so last summer I noticed my forks leaking, being the DYI type I researched it and went to work. Upon completion I was having severe trouble getting the correct amount of fork oil in the forks. So instead of wasting my whole weekend I took it the local shop and had them finish the job for me. Well it was still kinda loose upfront for my likes but really haven't been riding this last year. Now that I am able to ride more I noticed once again that there is a small amount of fork oil on the forks above the dust cover/seals which BTW I noticed one was starting to crack.

My question is this - is there anything else in those forks that might cause the squishiness that would need to be replaced if the fork oil and seals are good so to speak. (BTW yes I know cracking on rubber is not good and they should be replaced that is obvious. I am asking because if I replace it again and it is still squishy, I need to know where to go from there.)

Thanks

GooSe

BTW 2003 Vegas

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2003 Vegas - 16" Apes, SRVT Shotgun Pipes, K&N Performance Air intake, Corbin 2up Seat, KP Rear Fender, 1" lowering kit, Driver & Passenger floorboards and semihard leather bags.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-20-2015, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Update -

I finally got to redo the forks and seals. I put the recommended amount with 70mm (actually did 67mm from top from the top due to the -+ of 3mm according to the service manual) of a fully compressed shock with no spring or spacer. I reinstalled the forks and they still seem soft for me.

Any suggestions do I add alittle more fork oil? is my cartridge or spring shot? Thanks in advance.

GooSe
Waco, TX
2003 Vegas - 16" Apes, SRVT Shotgun Pipes, K&N Performance Air intake, Corbin 2up Seat, KP Rear Fender, 1" lowering kit, Driver & Passenger floorboards and semihard leather bags.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-20-2015, 03:09 PM
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I serviced my forks a few months ago. They weren't leaking, it was just time to change the fluid out. I added 10mm on top of the recommended fill amount. My forks feel rather squishy also, but they always did. After riding a few thousand miles, and some very twisty roads, I haven't had any handling concerns or issues with them.

I know this doesn't help you much, but that's my experience with these forks.

The only way I know to stiffen them up is to change the spring, or maybe add a spacer.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-20-2015, 05:56 PM
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you want stiffer go to a heavier weight. PJ1 makes several different weights.
You should go to dealer and push up and down on some and see what they feel like

Keep in mind the stiffer the front end the longer it takes you to stop

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-20-2015, 06:17 PM
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These forks are fairly soft in action, stock.
Squishy to me implies a noise.
Like VJ said, go and compare em with a new Vegas.
Your bikes an 03 so its 12 years old, how many miles?
These forks are fairly simple to work on once you know a few tricks, I did mine a while back and theyre due for another fork oil change again soon.,
I used a quality Full Synthetic fork oil, not the standard slop.
I also added an extra 5mm as an experiment and may try an extra 10 mm next time, and maybe up the grade to 15.

If you think your forks are worn out then I presume a couple of firk legs from a newer wreck may be a good way to go.

Also I clean my seals with a home made seal cleaner every time they start leaving smegma on my forktubes.
The top seal is actually just a dust cover that is pried up the access the actual seals for cleaning.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-20-2015, 08:30 PM
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Default conventional forks

your conventional forks are prolly damper rods not the cartridges used in the USD forks. a search will reveal lots of ways to stiffen them. my 2012 service manual shows a damper rod unit. there are preload spacers that can be lengthened, the springs can be changed as well as heavier or more fluid. if you think its worth it a suspension specialist can "tune" them to suit you. a cartridge "may" be available as well which is better than old tech damper rods.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-20-2015, 09:26 PM
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-22-2015, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BP6666VR View Post
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me too...just for use of the word smegma.

Fuck victory
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-22-2015, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DVega View Post
me too...just for use of the word smegma.
Ill say it again then. 'SMEGMA'
Gotta keep dem fork seals clean to stop that unsightly Smegma from appearing like dirty high tide marks on your nice shiny fork tubes.

Victory Vegas 2010
Lloydz 109"cube big bore
" " 495 cams
" " TorqueTubes
" " timing wheel @4 deg.
" " Primary plate
" " IAV
RPW Slash pipes
PCV
Progressive 465 rear shock
Kingpin USD Forks
18" XC front wheel
1 3/4" 'Burleigh Bars'
Stebel air horn
12.106 @110.90mph
114/123

Victory Cross Country 2010 (106)
Lloyds air filter
" " VM1 Cams
Home gutted exhaust
Maximus
Both tuned by [email protected] Dyno
110/116

Gold Coast
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 07:57 PM
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I thought the term was "schlemick".

That must be for the USD units.


2006 Vingpin, Inverted forks, Progressive rear shock, Stage 1 slip-on kit, S+S intake, grips and pegs, tach and rack, corbin saddle, night dragons. KMC reflashed/retuned to 100HP/104 TQ, good'nuff.

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