Meathook Ape Hangers on Vegas
After scrolling through numerous threads trying to find info about ape hangers on a Vegas, there seemed to be a lot of confusion on what size bars to use, can you use stock cables, etc... so hopefully this post helps because I decided to do this project myself and do it right.
I used VictoryOnly.com for my parts:
- 12" Phatt Bend (1.5" diameter, drops to 1" for controls and bar mounts, pre-drilled for internal wiring)
- 2" Bar Mount Risers
- +6" Throttle and Idle Cables
- +6" Brake Line
- +6" Clutch Cable
- Control Wire Extension Kit 24"
- Bar height. I wanted higher bars but I didn't want to feel uncomfortable. AFTER INSTALL: Much smoother ride, my hands sit right at shoulder height, 2" risers bring the bar closer to the triple clamp which reduces vibrations. Bars look bad a$$
- Fast Delivery. Bike Week was quickly approaching and I needed everything fast. AFTER: VictoryOnly.com had everything in stock, shipped to AZ in 2 days.
I'm not going to do a step-by-step instruction because most of the install is common sense for anyone that has some sort of mechanical knowledge. However, I will give tips that I learned along the way.
- You need a towel or blanket to lay over the tank, double layer if you can, and it doesn't hurt to tape it down. I only used one towel, and numerous times I would rub against it and it would slip off, which is how I got a minor chip in the paint. So take extra precaution if you want to keep you paint looking new.
- If you have speaker pods or other accessories on your bars, go ahead and remove them. I tried keeping my speakers wired up and resting on the tank, which kept getting in the way and that's how I got the chip on my tank. You're also going to want to reroute the speaker wires anyway, so just remove them completely and set to the side.
- Installing the new clutch cable is tricky because it is well hidden under the tank and partially goes through the interior of the frame. Don't worry, it can be done without fully removing the tank. Just remove the three bolts that secure the tank on (one under the seat, and the other two on either side near the steering stem. For this, I used steel wire and twisted it around the tip of the old cable that attaches to the lever. I pulled the cable through, from the bottom end that goes to the clutch plates. There were a couple zip ties that I had to cut, which is why you need the tank bolts off so you can lift it up a little to get to the zip ties. After the old cable was out, I untied the steel wire and twisted it around the tip of the new cable, and then pulled the steel wire back through, which brought the new cable with it. Under the tank, you'll see grooves that the cable sits in, be sure the new cables sits in those grooves so it doesn't jiggle loose.
- When you get the new brake line on, you'll want to bleed it. You can look up how-to videos on YouTube; however, most will require the brake bleed tool, or you could take it to a shop. So to save some money here's an easy way. First, pick up some DOT4 brake fluid from your cycle shop. Remove the cover to the reservoir that holds all the brake fluid (on the brake handle). Be sure to keep the reservoir full during the whole process to prevent air from entering. Use a 10mm wrench to open the bleed valve on the caliper, squeeze the brake lever and hold (do not release), close the bleed valve, then release the brake lever. Keep doing this until the brake fluid comes out of the bleed valve in a constant stream. Add brake fluid to the reservoir to ensure it's at the top, and install the cover. Next, squeeze the brake lever multiple times until the pressure builds up. And you're done.
- Internal Wiring for Controls. This was time consuming. Be sure to feed fishing line, rope, yarn, etc. through the new bars before you attach them to the bike. This will allow you to pull the electrical lines through much easier. I used thick yarn and it worked fine. Remove the headlight cover, and unplug the connecters for the clutch side and throttle side controls. Clip the wires as close to the connecters as possible. Use tape to secure the wires to the yarn, and pull the yarn from the bottom of the bar, so the wires are being fed through from the top. Do the same for the other control side. Use WD-40 to lube the wires, this makes it much easier to get the wires through.
- Freshen up on your soldering skills. Also, get some larger heat shrink tubing from Lowes/Home Depot. The control wire extension kit comes with heat shrink tubing, and they even have like a 20" tube to cover the entire wire length; however, its not thick enough to go over the wires after you solder on the clutch side control wires because I believe there's 14 wires to solder and it gets thick. To sum it up, if you're a pro at soldering and can prevent thickening the wires after you solder, then you should be good. If you're an average solder guy like me, get some larger heat shrink tubing just in case.
- For those with speaker pods, you'll need new mounts. After countless hours at stores, I found a set of mounts that are perfect. I bought a pair of 1 3/4 inch "Whip It" mounts from RideNow Powersports. They are meant for roll bars on UTVs; however, you can use some rubber as a bushing to fill the gap between the mount and bars. I used a 1.5" rubber PVC pipe connector as a rubber bushing (had to cut it of course to get the right fit and thickness). The only downside to these mounts are the price. They run $65 per mount... but worth it.
To sum it all up. This took me an entire weekend, which included driving to multiple stores to try and engineer up new speaker mounts, and other little issues that popped up. I hope this helps anyone that is wanting to add apes to their Vegas. Let me know if you have any questions.
2013 Vegas 8 Ball