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New member/ jackpot wobble

2K views 14 replies 8 participants last post by  ArcAngel455 
#1 ·
I am a new member with a problem on my 2006 victory jackpot. I have developed a major wobble as I make long turns on the freeway at 70-85 mph. This is not a vibration like a tire out of balance. It is a major wobble that gets severely worse very fast. I came very close to losing control and no dealer here in Alaska can tell me what causes it. New tires front and rear, all wheel bearings have been checked, goose neck is tight, and tires inflated to proper psi. I removed my saddle bags and windshield and it still persists to wobble horribly. Ive read forums about misalignment and tire pressure. Does anyone have some ideas on things to check or causes? I am not a new rider and have never come upon this issue. This just started this year. Bike has 12,500 miles. Thank u for future posts on this matter. I also have checked all bushings in The rear suspension.
 
#2 ·
Kingpin riders has a thread that discusses the same issues on a 2006 Kingpin. There isn't a post that shows the outcome but rear wheel alignment was suggested because you can't always trust the alignment marks. Here's a couple pastes explaining how the OP should check the alignment:


Make sure your back tire is straight don't trust the guide marks, jack it up and watch your belt on the rear sprocket when turning by hand the belt should run right down the middle and not to one side.


The best way I thought of to check the rear wheel for alignment is to measure the distance from the swingarm pivot rod center to the rear axle center on each side: make sure they are equal. I figure the rear axle absolutely has to be parallel with the pivot rod holding the swingarm to the bike frame. I probably ought to check the owner's manual on this one.
 
#3 ·
Make sure you didn't get a raidal and a bias ply mounted. A miss mached set could cause problems. Check alinement. And it's rare but a difective tire. If this started right after you had new tires mounted. It as to be something related.
 
#4 ·
Have to ask how much air in tires. No I don't inflated to proper Tell us is it 40 psi or 36 psi

Is your bike lowered

does it only happen in right hand curves or left

How is the shock set up soft or firm
 
#5 ·
I work out of town and go home in 4 days.I will definitely check that out ammo umb. That would make perfect sense. Thinking back It did start after the dealer installed the new tires and adjusted the belt tension. 06vitory I did make sure when I purchased the tires that they were both radials. Visionjohnny the tires are inflated to factory psi that is listed on the tire. Dont remember off hand what that was. The bike is lowered 1 1/2 inches, it happens in both left and right hand turns, the shock is stock setting. The rear wheel being out of alignment will be the first thing I check. Thank you all for the great feed back.
 
#10 ·
Visionjohnny the tires are inflated to factory psi that is listed on the tire. QUOTE]

You did mean to write that the tires are inflated to the pressure spec'd on the frame sticker or the owners manual I hope. If you have inflated your tires to the Max pressure spec'd on the tires, reset them to the bike manufacturer's specs and see if your problem goes away.
 
#7 ·
Not True! I have Bridgestone radials and have not had any wobble yet at speeds above 110mph although the front end feels light and touchy at those speeds.
 
#8 ·
That does not sound good & very unlike any Jackpot issue. Any chances the bike was a salvaged bike who's frame may still be damaged?
 
#9 ·
This has come up before. I have ran radials and had a wobble. I asked the question back then about the wobble. I was told by some reliable members to lower the tire pressure 4 lbs in each tire. Problem solved. Try going back into the archives look up wobble see what comes up. I love the radials on my bike. But they wear out to fast.
 
#11 · (Edited)
My memory failed me

ok my bad. I made a call home. the front tire is bias ply and rear tire is a radial. i called the victory dealer and also did some checking online. this is the way they come from the factory. The tires are inflated to what it says on the frame. I do believe the rear tire is out of alignment. As I said in an earlier post, I had the dealer adjust my belt tension and that seems to be when it started. Ammo umb gave me great feed back on how to check it and not go by the hash marks as the dealer may have. I fly home in 3 days and will post my findings. The bike handled amazing before the adjustment and never had a wobble up to 120 mph. Again guys, thanks for all the feedback. if this is the case, I will find a new shop for sure. After I let them know they almost erased me from this world. Oh and this Victory is not a salvage. I bought it from the dealer new . thanks again.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Ammo umb gave me great feed back on how to check it and not go by the hash marks as the dealer may have..

You could make up a tool that will greatly simplify making sure your axle and swingarm pivot are in line.

This is how I do it on the bikes I own.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161521

On an HD the factory drills the center of the pivot shaft of the swingarm making the job easier than on a Vic. I just checked my XC
and only one side of the axle is center drilled. Neither side of the pivot shaft is center drilled. You will therefore need to have another person on hand to hold one end of the tool on the mark you make on the center of the pivot shaft with a fine point sharpie while you work the other end of the tool at the axle of the bike.
On my XC you can see the parting tool marks in the center of the pivot shaft. Remark those if they are on your pivot shaft with a fine point sharpie and it will be a huge help to whoever helps you align the axle.

On one side of the axle you will have to either measure with a machinist scale or ruler or use your best guess to find center. Bending a custom tool with lineman's pliers will make the job go much easier. Remember you will probably be bending the rod to miss mufflers etc and both sides will be a little different.
If you bought extra rods you should quickly arrive at a design that will work equally well on both sides.
If you only have one rod, bend your first try out of a coat hanger. Once you get close bend the rod.


You might think about picking the welding rods up here where they are cheaper. If so go by a welding supply where you are now and pick up 5 sticks of 1/8" steel gas welding rod.

Be sure to get full length 36" rods. Then stop by a hardware store and pick up some good wire ties or a few small electrical rubber grommets that will just slide with some force up and down the rod to mark the length. See if the welding supply will give you a tube that the rods came in. If not while your at the hardware store purchase a length of pvc pipe a 1/4inch longer than the rods and a couple of slip on caps. Either put it in your luggage or hand carry it on the plane.
Just don't bend the rods or all will be for nothing.

There are other ways to check overall alignment. This needs to be done first because if this isn't right it will cause your pulleys to wear badly and quickly.
So check this first. The other check is done with two straight edges a machinist scale, a couple of bungee cords and a couple of blocks of wood. ( 2) 8 ft fluorescent tubes will work for straight edges. If the bike was fine and hasn't been wrecked checking the distance from the swingarm pivot shaft to the axle on both sides should be all you need to do to get things back to normal.

Best of luck to you.
 
#13 ·
I found the issue!

After many calls, time in the garage, and all your helpful posts I have found and fixed the issue. One problem was the dealer I took it too set the rear tire 1/8 inch out of alignment. Fixed that myself. The second problem was the front tire had busted belts which u could not see with the naked eye from the outside. Pulled the tire off the rim and HELLO!! There it was. Even spinning the tire on the bike I could not see it. And the final problem was the front tire was also wore to the wear bars. Not bald but wore that bad after 4000 miles. Alaska roads are hard on tires. And for those who dont know, victory jackpot from the factory runs a radial in the rear and a bias in the front. Confused two other dealers too. But after checking, rechecking,and numerous calls to many dealers all over the lower 48, the front tire is from the factory a bias ply. They do not make a 21 inch tire in a radial. So if you encounter what I call the death wobble, check these things. My 2006 victory jackpot feels new again. Thanks to all the posts.
 
#14 ·
Good to hear the puzzle was solved! Hopefully you still have some time left in your riding season!
 
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