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Discussion Starter #1
At the start of last riding season Everynow and then after riding & warming up the engine, it will sound like its missing or running on one cylinder. It mostly happens at stop lights, and the check engine light comes on when it happens. Revving the engine keeps it from stalling out but it'll also happen when starting to take off, becoming real jerky until it recovers. Also, from time to time the fuel pump will run constantly after starting the bike & not just for the 3 or 5 seconds like usual.

At the beginning of last year I cleaned the throttle bodies, and changed the plugs, as well as tried the throttle body cleaner to test for vacuum leaks. None of this has solved the issue. I've gone through and checked all electrical connections on the bike to make sure their tight / connected. The battery connections are all tight and the battery is reading normal. Any suggestions on what check or try next?
 

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You say battery read right but what you need is load test on it. If its the one that came with it in 06 I'm sure its do for retirement. Battery store and auto parts stores can do that for you.
OK cleaning has been done so look to see if you bumped something and go back and check for vacuum leak. One bike is warm would be the best time.
You say you hear the full pump running all the time. Not sure what you mean there. Check all your electrical connection add a little dielectric grease to them
Go slow and look twice
 

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Sounds like an injector is not operating properly.
+1 = Last time you ran SEAFOAM or something similar through the system? Have you left untreated gas stored in the tank? Ehtanol is a KILLER in a fuel system when left standing introducing moisture hence the above point.

Have you checked or replaced the fuel line for obstructions or kinks? Disconnect the fuel line and see if your getting debris out of it like hose rot.

VJ is right, you need a load test on the Battery in addition to ensuring contacts are clean. Weak batt could cause headaches at idle for ECU.

Plug wires / Idle set. Wires may look good but another rider just resolved similar problem by replacing wires and ensuring idle 1000 +/- 50.

Fuel pump pressure, I believe should be 49PSI. Need to check that but the flip side of that if no obstruction in the line is when is this caution coming on? When the pump continues to run past the 3-5 seconds. Just for clarificaiton, your saying when you turn it on the pump continues to run past 5 seconds prior to starting then you continue to hear it?

If you must, remove the tank, open it up and inspect the filter and fuel return line on the pump.

I would start with battery load test and seafoam while your finding a pressure guage to check your fuel pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, I may of found my issue. When reading a tech article from Lloyd today, I read that the spark plug wires snap onto the plugs VERY HARD. While reading that I remembered thinking to myself that the plug wires came off the plugs quite easily last night when I was pulling my plugs to check them. I think I may not of been getting good spark transfer.

I'm going to take my battery in tomorrow to have it load tested & I double checked the voltages tonight, 12.4 bike off, 14.4 idling. I also plan on taking off my tank tomorrow to clean the injectors again and get a better look at everything else. I'll be checking my fuel line for cracks / dry rot. I'm also going to put new exhaust gaskets on to make sure I don't have an exhaust leak. I'll hopefully have it back together in a week or so to take it for a test ride, then it'll be time to tear down the front end for a shock seal replacement & add ape hangers thumb up.

Here is the article from Lloyd, it's a good read: http://www.cross-riders.com/articles.asp?Article=11077&fid=40
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well the issue continues to happen. It turns out it wasn't a loose spark plug boot after all. I took the battery in And had it tested, it came back good. I've also tested charging system with volt meter while bike is running, everything reads normal there. I'm not sure what else to try here. Throttle bodies are spotless, plugs are new, plug wires are tight and good w/ no holes or leaking spark. I tested for vacuum leaks and found none. I checked every electrical connection I could get my hands on and checked all rubber hoses for cracks. I'm completely stumped. Any other ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Reset TPS as in bridge the pins talked about in other posts? I didn't I was able to do that on my bike since its an 06. I though that could only be done on some of the older bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
26,000. I'm thinking I need to check my fuel pressure. Anyone have any tips on the best way to do that?
 

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Sorry think its called Throttle point reset Cant recall exactly how its done My 06 had same trouble after cleaning TB And that fixed it Key on open throttle count to 5 let it snap closed I know there is a post telling how its done Good luck hope its a cheap fix
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I've actually done this a few times but hasn't seem to of made a difference. I need to replace my throttle cable since one broke last week. I'll be doing that and hopefully testing fuel pressure this week.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Picked up a fuel pressure test kit last night and tested fuel pressure. It read normal at 50 psi, never dropping, or fluttering. Attached is link to a video of the test. I also retried the vaccum leak test by spraying the throttle body cleaner around the Throttle body adapter but it never dropped, or raised in idle. I took the air filter out and sprayed some throttle body cleaner in there while it was running just to see what I should be listening for. When I did that, the bike dropped in idle almost like it does when I'm having the issue I described earlier but didnt sound quite as bad. I think I'm going to replace the Throttle Body Adapter just to rule that out, plus its a 7 year old bike with 26,000 miles on it in a dry climate so it could probably use to be done.

Any other suggestions on things to check?

Fuel pressure test video: http://youtu.be/hEVu1vkh-GM
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
VIDEO LINK BELOW OF ISSUE

I got it all back together and took it for a ride. After riding for 10 miles or so and coming to a stop with the engine nice and warm it started to spit and sputter and then shut off and the check engine light came on.

I think I've got it narrowed down to being something electrical. After it shuts off it might sit for 30 seconds and without touching a thing, the check engine light will come on, the fuel pump will run like the killswitch was cycled and then it'll start ticking from the fuel pump relay in the fuse box. I've switched out the relay with another one in the fuse box and the issue persists. If i put my hand on the fuel pump relay I can feel the ticking and its audible.

It seems to me that I have a short somewhere, but its only when I come to a stop, and its not always instant. In the video you'll see that it runs for a little while, you can hear it miss and see the check engine light come on, it'll continue to run for another 5 seconds and then just die on its own. I'm not sure where to start looking, I've check all the wires on the bike I could get my hands on for a short. I also took every electrical connector apart, cleaned them up, and applied di-electric grease.


 

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Discussion Starter #19
In that video the fuel pump run continuously and the relay is making the ticking noise. What your hearing would be the fuel pump. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't believe the 2006's have an IAC.
 

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hmmmm. i will assume you know if you have on or not. I do not know if an 06 has one or not.

Sounds fine right up until it stalls. Could it be a sticky injector cutting it out?
In the first vid it stumbles for a second


m
 
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