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Discussion Starter #1
Never had issues with the bike ever. This all started after I had battery go bad but then replaced it. After the battery replacement, my engine light was on. I did the TPS reset and engine light went off but this is when the rough idle and stumbling started. I did a fuel pressure test that resulted in 50 psi which I know is good. I currently have no engine light on and spark plugs look good however I do smell gas while the bike is idling. Wide-open throttle the bike runs great it is just a problem at idle and traveling at steady speeds (30-45mph) where the bike runs rough. One last thing to note, I did jumpstart the bike about two or three times before I found out that the battery was bad. Any help on this will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Any thoughts are appreciated. I spoke with a few that said maybe voltage regulator, TPS recalibration or the map on the ECM was blown out because of the battery issue. Please chime in with any thought or suggestions.
 

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Any thoughts are appreciated. I spoke with a few that said maybe voltage regulator, TPS recalibration or the map on the ECM was blown out because of the battery issue. Please chime in with any thought or suggestions.
Does the bike have a fuel controller?
 

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From what you're describing, if I had to guess I would go for a vacuum leak. So the bike being jumped (which can be very bad in that you could fry your ECM) is most likely just a mere coincidence.

To confirm if you're having a vacuum leak, you can spray some aerosol around the throttle bodies while the bike's running at idle and see if that changes the way the motor's running. You can use WD-40 or carbclean. Let us know if you're able to confirm or remove the vacuum leak off the suspect list.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
From what you're describing, if I had to guess I would go for a vacuum leak. So the bike being jumped (which can be very bad in that you could fry your ECM) is most likely just a mere coincidence.

To confirm if you're having a vacuum leak, you can spray some aerosol around the throttle bodies while the bike's running at idle and see if that changes the way the motor's running. You can use WD-40 or carbclean. Let us know if you're able to confirm or remove the vacuum leak off the suspect list.
Thanks for the reply CrossRoads. The bike does not have a fuel controller but it does have a map (05 Hammer Drag map). Checked for vacuum leaks and all checked out negative. Someone told me that the TPS can be re-calibrated by the dealer using their digital wrench. I'm thinking TPS or the map is somehow screwed up. I disconnected the battery for a day or so and the bike ran much better but still has fluctuating idle and will stall at stop lights from time to time. If it is the ECM, anybody know how much that would cost me to get resolved?
 

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...If it is the ECM, anybody know how much that would cost me to get resolved?
If it's a corrupt map in the ECM you could get it as cheap as free from your local dealer. Ask for it if you're doing something else, like a recall or some service you normally have them do, and they'll likely throw in reloading the fuel map for you.

If you're assuming your ECM is fried, and you need a new one, stop right there. Your bike would not be running with a fried ECU.

At the most it's a corrupt map, but I still think it's a vacuum leak. Did you use WD-40 or Carbclean to check? Was the bike idling rough, and was there no change in the rough idle as you sprayed at the throttle bodies?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If it's a corrupt map in the ECM you could get it as cheap as free from your local dealer. Ask for it if you're doing something else, like a recall or some service you normally have them do, and they'll likely throw in reloading the fuel map for you.

If you're assuming your ECM is fried, and you need a new one, stop right there. Your bike would not be running with a fried ECU.

At the most it's a corrupt map, but I still think it's a vacuum leak. Did you use WD-40 or Carbclean to check? Was the bike idling rough, and was there no change in the rough idle as you sprayed at the throttle bodies?
Sprayed throttle body cleaner and no change to idle. Still rough. Good to hear it’s not the ECM though. I don’t do service at my local dealer at all. I do my own so I wonder how much they would charge for a map load.
 

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Sprayed throttle body cleaner and no change to idle. Still rough. Good to hear it’s not the ECM though. I don’t do service at my local dealer at all. I do my own so I wonder how much they would charge for a map load.
I forgot to ask, do you have a map downloaded that replaced your stock map? If you have a stock map, there's nothing to download, unless you have a Stage1 download on it already. If you have a Stage1 download, who put it on the bike?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I forgot to ask, do you have a map downloaded that replaced your stock map? If you have a stock map, there's nothing to download, unless you have a Stage1 download on it already. If you have a Stage1 download, who put it on the bike?
I have a stage 1 map (05 Hammer drag map) loaded by the dealer. Bike also has S&S air intake and Ness Slashness pipes.
 

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Crappy gas could also cause the symptoms you have stated. You said you can smell gas at ideal. Have you removed the fuel tank lately. I replaced my air filter once before a trip. I road a 100miles before it blew the fuel line off. I didn't get it cliped back into place good when I put the tank back own.
 

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A couple of things I'd be checking that haven't already been mentioned...

First, whether or not you notice it a momentary problem at high revs can still be there. It will be of such a short duration that you can't tell by just listening.
Also, jumping any vehicle with electronic ignition or electronics of any type has the potential to cause damage.

Sure sounds like a power problem. If it was the fuel supply I'd think the problem wouldn't "stumble". It might be intermittent but would be there for a bit longer time. Like for the one or two seconds it would take for the pump to re-pressurize the fuel line. Just an opinion though. Oh, and you didn't wash it lately did you?

  • Being the last thing you did I'd double check all the battery connections as well as the ones on the 40 amp breaker. Make sure they are clean and tight. Also look in the immediate area of each connection to see if something close or loose could be vibrating and momentarily touching one of the terminals.
  • Rap the 40 amp breaker with a screw driver handle to see if it stumbles. On that age of a bike I would change it anyway.
  • There are a few connectors in the area of the battery. Check everything under the seat is still tight. Also look at individual wires in the area to make sure one isn't pinched or scraped bare.
  • Find and correct that gas smell. Fuel line connector, gas cap seal, gas tank vent. etc. Might not be related but it's definitely a problem.
  • Spark plug wires. Not dried out and cracked. Also the connectors still solid and clean on the coil and plugs.
  • Injector cleaner. Won't hurt, just do it.
When it gets to engine firing problems with electronic ignitions once you get past the basic home checks there's usually test gear involved. If you're fortunate enough to be in an area where a past Vic dealer was able to retain the Digital Wrench you might try to get some help from them. As mentioned above it could mean just a reload which is a minor problem.

Good luck and keep us updated.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Any idea where I can find the 40 amp breaker on an 06 Vegas? I searched youtube but only found info for the breaker for the Cross bikes. Also the bike does not see water when washing. Tank has not been off so don't think any wires or hoses are pinched. I do think this is electrical. Going to take the seat off again today and go over connections. I cranked on the positive and negative terminals pretty good so they are tight.
 

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Never had issues with the bike ever. This all started after I had battery go bad but then replaced it. After the battery replacement, my engine light was on. I did the TPS reset and engine light went off but this is when the rough idle and stumbling started. I did a fuel pressure test that resulted in 50 psi which I know is good. I currently have no engine light on and spark plugs look good however I do smell gas while the bike is idling. Wide-open throttle the bike runs great it is just a problem at idle and traveling at steady speeds (30-45mph) where the bike runs rough. One last thing to note, I did jumpstart the bike about two or three times before I found out that the battery was bad. Any help on this will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Have you cleaned the throttle body intake lately? Might want to do it again if you did or do it now if you haven't.

Also there's an idle adjustment screw under the left side of the tank. When the throttle body's get dirty you can postpone cleaning them for a while by increasing the idle a bit. You will normally have to decrease it again once you get the time to clean the TB's.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Since the TB cleaning I have put maybe 100 miles on the bike since so I know they are still clean.
 

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Okay but 9 out 10 times when there's an issue it's usually where you were most recently working on.

I'd pull the tank, inspect those TB's and boots with a bright flashlight and take care of anything you find if you find anything.

Also, while you do that, make sure all fuel line connections are solidly snapped in.

One other thing came to mind while typing this is an issue I found with my KP when I changed the plugs and plug wires. Dielectric grease is great to use as a seal on the plug wire boots but it does not conduct electricity so when I put too much in the boots the plugs captured the grease, where they make connection with the snap in connector, was preventing good flow of electricity causing it run rough. Cleaned them up and it ran right. Lesson learned. Sometimes less is more.

This is also why I try to only work on one system at a time in case I do have an issue. At least I can narrow it down to that one area.

If you're sure the fuel filters are in good shape then I'd say it's safe to rule out the fuel system but you can spray some starter fluid into the intake while it's running to see if it starts running right temporarily. If it does then you know for sure it's the fuel system somewhere.
 
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