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Does anyone know what the length of the WD 1" link is, Thanks
 

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yes rod is 12" and for every 1/2" you cut out of the rod that will drop the bike 1"
 

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yes rod is 12" and for every 1/2" you cut out of the rod that will drop the bike 1"
I'm confused....If I set my new adjustable link 1" shorter than the stock
one...how far did I drop it....I measured from center to center

 

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Hmmm thats weird cause when I lowered my link 2" it measured a 2" lowering between the frame and the axle CL. it was a 1 to 1 ratio.

Where are you guys figuring the 2 to 1 ratio ? bottom of frame to the ground?
 

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I measured mine at the top of the frame where the passenger seat would be down to the ground, that's what is getting lowered.
 

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I bought mine from Jim on eBay last week. Great guy and great product. We had extensive conversations about the ratios and he confirmed, every 1/2" on the link equals 1" on the bike. His instructions state that it is shipped as a 3" drop. Measure it and you will find it is 10 1/2" long. He said he is going to be rewriting his instructions to make them clearer.

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So, one full spin on the link changes the length by 1/8".
Therefore four full spins changes the length by 1/2".

2011 Victory Cross Country
Stage 1
Lloydz timing wheel
Madstad brackets
 

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So, one full spin on the link changes the length by 1/8".
Therefore four full spins changes the length by 1/2".
What are the threads per inch on those heim joints? probably fine thread I would assume?

Thats a real nice product being adjustable on the bike on the go. Maybe for a full race setup where adjustments are continually necessary for different tracks, but on the street once you find your spot, youre set! and not for $140 bills! I think all the nuts and bolts on mine cost me $5;)
 

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What are the threads per inch on those heim joints? probably fine thread I would assume?

Thats a real nice product being adjustable on the bike on the go. Maybe for a full race setup where adjustments are continually necessary for different tracks, but on the street once you find your spot, youre set! and not for $140 bills! I think all the nuts and bolts on mine cost me $5;)
How did you experiment to find the sweet spot without getting different lengths of the links?

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How did you experiment to find the sweet spot without getting different lengths of the links?

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Mine is adjustable but not like a turnbuckle that has LH and RH threads in each end. So far I have only adjusted it for 'looks' and not for ride as the bike is not back together yet. But to make an adjustment, I will have to jack up the bike, remove the bottom bolt from the swingarm, spin the bottom of the link in or out (for up or down) and then remount it to the swingarm and lock the nuts back down. But once you find it, its done and no more adjustments.

The $140 adjustable one, you can just twist the turnbuckle nut, no jack, no nothing, thats why I say in a racing situation where you have to make quick adjustments, it would be very good to have.
 

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I lowered my vision 2" so now from bottom of motor to ground I have 4"
 
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