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Discussion Starter #1
I am serioulsy considering buying a CR soon, not soon enough but soon. I want to make enough changes to it to make is sound better and breathe better. My goal is to achieve a minimum of 100 hp at the rear wheel (vs at the crank)

What modifications would you recommend to achieve this goal?

Thanks in advance,

Steve
 

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A different bike. You can throw enough money at it to get there, but it will be expensive. If you can do your own, it will still be costly.

I will probably get hammered, but if you want fast, or muscle, you are looking at an expensive ride.

Love it for what it is. It is taking me time to do that. I am used to about 35 more HP and 20+ more tourque.

Happy hunting
 

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A different bike. You can throw enough money at it to get there, but it will be expensive. If you can do your own, it will still be costly.

I will probably get hammered, but if you want fast, or muscle, you are looking at an expensive ride.

Love it for what it is. It is taking me time to do that. I am used to about 35 more HP and 20+ more tourque.

Happy hunting
Intake,Fuel Tuner, Exhaust and Cams.....
 

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All it would take is decent pipes, airbox, fuel controller, and cams to break 100 HP. Choose wisely and it'll only cost you a couple grand.

I would like to say that 100 HP is just a number. It means nothing. What matters is area under the curve. On a heavy bagger bike, it is far more important to have a broad, flat torque curve than peak horsepower.

Suppose you only made 90 peak horsepower... but you made over 100 ft-lbs from 2000 rpm to 4800 rpm? You'd forget all about that other 10 HP.
 

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Actually, I think you could touch 100hp at the tire with intake, fuel tuner, and cams. It's not ideal but I've seen Victories do it through restrictive pipes.
 

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A different bike. You can throw enough money at it to get there, but it will be expensive. If you can do your own, it will still be costly.

I will probably get hammered, but if you want fast, or muscle, you are looking at an expensive ride.

Love it for what it is. It is taking me time to do that. I am used to about 35 more HP and 20+ more tourque.

Happy hunting
Then why are there several examples of 100 RWHP on this site? It's actually quite easy to achieve and inexpensive compared to another brand. For less than $1500, over 100 RWHP can be attained with very few parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you all for your replies. The way I figure it a 2012 model, 106 engine puts out 97-HP at the crank, according to Victory. With an 8 to 10% loss of HP thru the drive line, that means (roughly) a 14 HP increase should produce a RWHP of around 101 +/- .5hp. (approx. 15.5%)

According to some claims, that sort of increase should be possible with a performance exhaust, increasing the intake airflow and tinkering wth the mapping. Hell, according to advertising claims, it should be EASY!!!!!

and I have a bridge for sale in Brooklyn......... Although I do believe it should be possible without cams.......... Any opinions on this theory?

Thank You!!

Steve
 

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According to some claims, that sort of increase should be possible with a performance exhaust, increasing the intake airflow and tinkering wth the mapping. Hell, according to advertising claims, it should be EASY!!!!!

and I have a bridge for sale in Brooklyn......... Although I do believe it should be possible without cams.......... Any opinions on this theory?

Thank You!!

Steve


Why don't you show us all how it's done, Steve?

The data is there, readily available, so you don't need the manufacturer's claims and a calculator. If you want HP you need compression, breathing, and RPM. The stock 106 is all done before 5000 RPM... that's no help. It's low compression... that's no help. Even if you open up the intake and exhaust so it can breathe you will need cams that build power to higher rpm and those cams will need compression unless you want to kill all the low end grunt. It's all about compromises.

The first 20 HP increase is easy and cheap. The next 20 HP increase will cost you big.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Why don't you show us all how it's done, Steve?

The data is there, readily available, so you don't need the manufacturer's claims and a calculator. If you want HP you need compression, breathing, and RPM. The stock 106 is all done before 5000 RPM... that's no help. It's low compression... that's no help. Even if you open up the intake and exhaust so it can breathe you will need cams that build power to higher rpm and those cams will need compression unless you want to kill all the low end grunt. It's all about compromises.

The first 20 HP increase is easy and cheap. The next 20 HP increase will cost you big.
You are absolutely correct...... my comments, while not obvious were made tongue firmly planted in cheek. As far as showing how it's done, I plan on doing intake, exaust and mapping changes to a stock CR when I have the money to make the purchase..... I will have it put on a dyno afterwards to see what improvements have been made (if any) and will report the results then. As far as cams go, I totally agree...... But, I will say, that I think the HP gains I am looking for are modest. Hope to increase low end response and torque as well, as that is where the felt power is (in my opinion) needed most.

S
 

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For what it's worth. My buddy just did air filter/VFC/custom exhaust(KMC). 90HP/105lbs.ft. The bike is strong!! It's a CR LE.
 

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You are absolutely correct...... my comments, while not obvious were made tongue firmly planted in cheek. As far as showing how it's done, I plan on doing intake, exaust and mapping changes to a stock CR when I have the money to make the purchase..... I will have it put on a dyno afterwards to see what improvements have been made (if any) and will report the results then. As far as cams go, I totally agree...... But, I will say, that I think the HP gains I am looking for are modest. Hope to increase low end response and torque as well, as that is where the felt power is (in my opinion) needed most.

S
Stock at back tire is 78-80HP/96-98FtLb
Mod the intake, add pipes, and any type of good fuel control, and you will be between 87-92/103-105
Add VM1 cams, and you will be 103-107/107-115
All these numbers vary by dyno, fuel, pipes, and tune. Some bikes also just run incredibly
 
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