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Discussion Starter #1
i do need new tires and an oil/filter change. besides the recommended stuff what else should be done at this time.
 

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Check brake pad thickness, change brake fluid (that should be done every 2 years no matter the mileage), grease clutch cable ends, check cable and throttle slack, check for any loose bolts and anything else that may be mentioned in the manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
the shop i took it to goes by what victory suggest. so if they suggest it it will get done. i told them to do what ever is suggested for the 10000 mile service.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i am getting a loyds highflo filter put on, will it need a reflash of any kind.
 

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Tons of threads on that subject but pretty much yes, you should have some type of fuel controller on your bike and maybe have a professional dyno it for you. I am still stock after 5 years so just going by what others have said on here.
 

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i am getting a loyds highflo filter put on, will it need a reflash of any kind.
The bike runs lean from the factory to pass EPA requirements. Adding a more free flowing air filter by itself will make the bike run even more lean, which is not a good idea.

The fuel is controlled by the bike's ECU. You can override or change the ECU using either a fuel controller or an ECU flash. This is done either by purchasing an auto-tune device that monitors your riding and suggests changes, having a professional tune your bike by making multiple runs on their dyno machine or having a Stage 1 flash done by a dealer.

Even if you made no changes to the bike a tune would result in some extra HP and torque as well as make your bike run a little cooler. Even more HP and torque can be achieved by making some simple upgrades such as the Lloyds air filter and a better exhaust such as Vic's Tri-ovals. Also, depending on which method you choose to make fuel changes, a Lloyds timing wheel can help.

You have some options, each with their own pros/cons and dollar costs. Post up if you have specific questions.
 

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I just noticed that you already have Tri-ovals. Did your bike have the Stage 1 upgrade done to it by a Vic dealer? If so then you already have a better air filter than stock. While the Lloyds filter is better in terms of air flow than the Stage 1 filter, I don't think it would make a big enough difference by itself to justify the expense. Of course, that's just my $0.02.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
the shop that is doing the service said the filter was nasty and needed replacing.yes it did have the stage 1 upgrade of the reflash,triovals and i think the filter as well.so it shouldnt really need another reflash then.
 

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I thought the Stage 1 air filter was able to be cleaned like a K&N or the Lloyds. Not sure about that however.
 

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Yes, the performance air filter that should have come with the Triovals kit is a K&N type that's easily cleaned, dried, oiled and reinstalled.

But I'd take the Lloyds air filter over the Victory (K&N) air filter each and every time. If you can and while the tank is off anyway, install Diamond Jim's tank lift front tank holders in place of the original tank holders on the frame that hold up the front of the tank.
 

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I believe I read that the Lloyds filter breaths 40% better than the Stage 1 filter. Assuming that is true, by going to the Lloyds filter your bike will run leaner than it does now. The Stage 1 flash does richen the fuel for the Stage 1 air filter and Tri-oval combo, but I assume it still had to meet the EPA requirements.

FWIW, I also recall reading that it was not a good idea to use the K&N cleaner and oil on the Vic filter. Something about making the rubber seals swell. But I don't recall ever reading about what should be used to clean it.

If you have the extra money and want a little more performance and a better and cooler running bike I would get the Lloyds air filter and an ECU based tune from one of the guys that have a lot of experience tuning Vics. Probably the closest to you is KevinX (Southern MotorworX) in FL. Of course if you have the funds, go all the way and get new cams. You might call KevinX at his shop to get more info and a quote.
 

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Being a bang for the buck guy (aka cheap bastard), I went with a Lloydz VFCIII seat of the pants fuel controller I bought from a forum member who went to a PCV. Ya gotta be willing to have the patience to play around with the settings until you've hit the sweet spot.
I have this fear that if I spend the big bucks for a PCV and a dyno tune (there's one in my neighborhood) it won't result in any improvement over what I have now. She's running great, gets great mpg ( high 40s to low 50s), decel pops only occasionally and has a nice decel crackling sound when going down a steep hill and off the throttle.
FYI: Disconnecting and/or removing the O2 sensors will help to enrich the fuel mix. In fact, that's required with the VCFIII.
 

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I thought the Stage 1 air filter was able to be cleaned like a K&N or the Lloyds. Not sure about that however.
I've had a couple of the Vic Stage 1 filters and they are prone to getting holes in the felt that let dirt pass through. They are a poor clone of the K&N. They look good enough when you put them in, but failed sometime almost immediately after they were put in. You could hold them to the light and see holes that had appeared near the folds in the support screen where the felt had opened up and pulled back allowing dirt through. Cheep materials. I've never seen that t on a real K&N and I have owned several on road bikes as I live on a dirt road.

LLoydz is a much better filter. That is what I am using now. Judging by what I went through I don't doubt that his mechanic is doing him a favor by putting in either the stock OEM filter, or the LLoydz.

Once you get a good reusable air filter filter like the Lloydz it is important not to clean it too often if you want to do the best maintenance. 30K is the recommended interval for either a K&N or the LLoydz I believe. They don't do as good a job cleaning air when they are first cleaned as a stock filter. They are a depth filter. They provide a surface for the dirt that they trap to form a matrix on that improves their ability to filter further dirt out of the air more efficiently. The dirt that forms on them initially provides most of the micron rating for them. Car oil filters are another example of a filter that works the same way.
Over the life of the cleaning interval they do a better job than a stock filter and still allow extra air to the motor on demand. Clean them too often and your shooting yourself in the foot, so to speak. They are a superior filter provided you read the fine print.

If you don't do your own service you need to remember to tell the mechanic who does your next service you don't want the filter cleaned and so on till you get to or past the 30K mark and it is time to clean it again.




My dream is for every Chinese person in China making motorcycle and automotive parts to someday own their own car.
My hope is that they will then have some understanding of what that part they are building at work is for and throw the screwed up ones in the scrap barrel rather than ship them here.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
so simply unplugging the o2 sensors could be good enough to not need a fuel controler.
 

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LLoydz is a much better filter. That is what I am using now.
No doubt, but his issue is will the more free flowing Lloyds filter make his bike run even more lean and perhaps damage the engine.

Judging by what I went through I don't doubt that his mechanic is doing him a favor by putting in either the stock OEM filter, or the LLoydz.
Maybe so...only the OP can make the decision. I just wanted him to go into it with his eyes wide open and know the possible issues with going with the Lloyds without adjusting the fuel.

I'm sure Vic wants way more money for the stock filter than it's worth. Perhaps he can pick up a cheep almost-new stock filter here while he decides what he wants to do. That seems like the safest option. Hell, there are probably folks here with a brand new Stage 1 filter they got when they bought Tri-ovals but never used it because they went with the Lloyds and a tune.
 

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so simply unplugging the o2 sensors could be good enough to not need a fuel controler.
Maybe, maybe not. Your safest/cheapest bet is to see if you can find a new-never used Stage 1 filter from someone here.

FWIW it doesn't hurt to unplug the O2 sensors and you may want to do it either way. But it's impossible to know how lean your bike will run if you go with the Lloyds without a tune and only unplug the sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
well then does anybody out there have never used stage 1 filter for a cross country for a reasonable price.
 

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well then does anybody out there have never used stage 1 filter for a cross country for a reasonable price.
Another option is that you can just throw a stock filter in it. You won't notice the difference, at least I didn't. The little extra fuel that a stage one download puts in will not make a noticeable amount of difference. This is the option I took with my wifes bike which has a PCV, partly debaffled mufflers in it. When her Vic stage 1 filter bit the dust I put a stock filter back in and I couldn't tell the difference over the vic performance filter. The factory throw away filter at least doesn't let dirt in the motor.

I have a wideband meter and built the map that is in her bike. I never even bothered putting the meter back on it to readjust the map because it ran near identical if not identical and got the same gas mileage as it did with the vic performance filter. It's the cheap way out in this case.
 
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