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Discussion Starter #1
So I've tried Victory, Rotella & Klotz oils up until now. Found no issues with any. Didn't find the Rotella to be any better than the victory. The Klotz is a great oil but expensive at about $14.00 a quart so I figured I'd try the new Victory 20w40 Amsoil. I'm no oil analyst but I have been racing & was a mechanic for over 35 years so I have some experience with oils. Generally I have a preference for synthetics but I use the sight sound touch method to make a decision on what I use. Have to say I always thought Amsoil was a good product but not as good as their advertising campaign as they push a little hard for my taste. So...I decided to try the new 20w40 v-twin Victory/Indian oil to see what happened. Have to say I am impressed. Motor is definitely quieter in the valve train which we all know to be an issue with our motors. Also feels like the motor is running cooler than it was before & that doesn't suck. Did try slipping the clutch as well. 6th gear, full throttle, 30 mph. NO CLUTCH SLIPPAGE AT ALL. just thought I'd post what I found as everybody on here try to look out for each other. I know a lot of guys talk about oil bases & full syns. vs partials blah blah blah. All I know is after all the years of using everything under the sun I know what is the same from what's different. Thanks for reading ??
 

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I had three clutch slippage instances this summer. I was using the new Amsoil product you describe as well, put it in at 500 miles. I switched back to Vic fluid at 5000 miles on my XC to see if it changes anything. I Probably won't know till next spring/summer, gonna get cold here soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's odd. Never seen any oil make a clutch slip once in a while. To be clear wasn't recommending any oil just relating what I found
 

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I am just going to repeat what I asked to one of the big boys (Victory Mechanics), I had the chance of getting the cams installed by one of them, and i popped the question about victory oil and Synthetics, and the answers had two takeaways, the first was that he not only recommends victory oil he also recommends other brands of semi synthetic as the path to follow, and he did not recommend to go to synthetics, and the reasoning behind is that with the cams, the ats and the free flow exhaust the engine has more power than stock and sometimes that power mixed with synthetics can make the clutch slips.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I don't disagree & I know Kevinx recommends victory oil & he's way smarter than me about it. Was just relating what I found with my own experience. I have just had cams & a tune done 107/112 is where I'm at. I checked for clutch slip by doing high load/ low rpm & experienced no issue. Was at 30/35 mph. 6th gear about 2000 rpm. There was no slippage on my bike at this time. Not telling anybody what to use or think just sharing my experience.
 

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here we go---again!!!

amsoil blends good oils, they are all synthetic BUT not all real man made group IV PAO blends as in the past. surely better than Vic's overpriced semi-syn with 30% group III + the rest being lesser group II or II+ oils. amsoil's 20-40 is a group III mineral oil legally labeled synthetic since 1999!! a group III oil is a severally hydrocracked crude oil product, its cleaner because of this process + has "most" of the waxes + impurities removed allowing better flow, only issue is a 20-whatever is too thick to flow quickly in colder weather. today there are few "real" group IV + V oils that are without a doubt superior in extreme conditions like our hot running air-oil cooled Vics with a shared tranny that chews up-shears the larger quantity of fragile viscosity index improvers required in mineral oils. real synthetic group IV PAO + group V ester MOTORCYCLE oils DO NOT cause clutch issues!!!!!
 

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Why not just mix some 1/2 amsoil and 1/2 triple t or some other dino oil and grown your own.

All motor oils can be mixed. It's a requirement of the government and no manufacture wants to be left out of Government contracts.
As long as you pic a wet clutch compatible oil which there are dozens, you should be good to go, I would think? No??
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wasn't looking to get into that debate at all. Not an oil engineer or trying to be one just a guy who knows what works. And a 20 we. Oil works fine in the cold. Raced stock cars in the northeast for thirty years & ran 50 we. when I was a kid. When the 20-50 came out nobody even wanted to use it cause it was voodoo. Oil weight is specific to the clearances in a motor. Not to what somebody thinks is good. A 1960 engine isn't designed for 0-20 oil & a 2015 isn't designed for straight 50 wt.
 

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I am just going to repeat what I asked to one of the big boys (Victory Mechanics), I had the chance of getting the cams installed by one of them, and i popped the question about victory oil and Synthetics, and the answers had two takeaways, the first was that he not only recommends victory oil he also recommends other brands of semi synthetic as the path to follow, and he did not recommend to go to synthetics, and the reasoning behind is that with the cams, the ats and the free flow exhaust the engine has more power than stock and sometimes that power mixed with synthetics can make the clutch slips.
Sounds adding a quart of of the Amsoil to 3 quarts of 3 T might work.
It has a bit thicker base, has synthetic properties. Good to go.
 

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If Rotella doubled or tripled the price of their oil people would swear it was the best out there.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hell yea. I ride 6-8 thousand a year & change my oil every 4. So why would I care how much my oil costs??? I have a 18,000.00 motorcycle that I spent a ton on to make it mine. At the same time I don't need to spend 15.00 a qt to prove a point either. Just want a good product at a fair price.
 

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better mix

mixing Redline motorcycle oil, prolly the best out there would be a better option. Redline is a group V ester oil + will withstand more heat while flowing better when cold. another plus is ester oils are polar + cling to metal a long time preventing dry starts after setting. Lloydz mentioned piston scuffing if not warmed up, he recommends vic oil of course. the vic oil can be especially bad as a 20-whatever semi-syn will flow slowly when cold. a 10-40 is highly recommended for cold weather riders
 

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Hell yea. I ride 6-8 thousand a year & change my oil every 4. So why would I care how much my oil costs??? I have a 18,000.00 motorcycle that I spent a ton on to make it mine. At the same time I don't need to spend 15.00 a qt to prove a point either. Just want a good product at a fair price.
So you buy the most expensive gas you can find also? You should the bike cost $18,000.
Never understood that logic.


$18,000 didn't make it yours you had to spend more?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Didn't have to chose to. My bike is my pleasure, my toy, my relaxation. Making it mine is part of the joy of owning it. Something that I enjoy having & using. Why would I not want to find what I feel is the best product I can for it. When needed tires I didn't look for the cheapest I looked for the best. Truth is I don't care what anybody else does with their bike but mine is an investment in my lifestyle. I am happy to spend whatever I need to to make it last & be what I want
 

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Been using Amsoil for a year now and just now out of curiosity, bought some bottles of Repsol oil and Avon tires from 4 Wheel Online. To be honest I can't feel any difference with the engine performance at all. The only difference I see is the price of the 2 products.
 

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Switching to the Amsoil soon. . .

I'll be changing to the Amsoil 20w-40 in a few weeks. I was satisfied with the Vic oil, but I've always used full syn in my other vehicles and have been happy with the performance / engine cleanliness with syn oil. I get the Amsoil for about what Vic oil cost, so it'll cost no extra for me. . . I'll do an oil analysis after I wear out the Amsoil and post the results. . . .it'll likely be next year sometime. --Rob
 

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just another mineral oil

Amsoil's "synthetic" 20-40 is a better value for sure, legally labeled synthetic since 1999 its still a mineral-dino-crude oil product. its a severely hydrocracked crude oil thus being cleaner + flowing better having more impurities removed-waxes. but those that ride in colder weather should use a 10-40 for its quicker cold flow. real synthetic group IV PAO + group V ester based oils are best, but the benefits of better lubrication is not realized until many miles down the road. cheaper oils deteriorate faster requiring more changes, your choice for sure!
 

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Amsoil's "synthetic" 20-40 is a better value for sure, legally labeled synthetic since 1999 its still a mineral-dino-crude oil product. its a severely hydrocracked crude oil thus being cleaner + flowing better having more impurities removed-waxes. but those that ride in colder weather should use a 10-40 for its quicker cold flow. real synthetic group IV PAO + group V ester based oils are best, but the benefits of better lubrication is not realized until many miles down the road. cheaper oils deteriorate faster requiring more changes, your choice for sure!

As far as I know, Amsoil doesn't say what type of base oil they use, so I wouldn't assume it's 100% hydrocracked conventional--it's likely a blend of base oils designed to hit a specific performance mark. What matters at the end of the day is that it performs well--they only thing that can indicate performance is a used oil analysis, which is only a snapshot of an engine's health. I've done analysis of used Vic oil, and it performed as advertised. Will the Amsoil be the same or better?. . . .we'll see at the next oil change.

As for the 20-40 weight in cold weather. . . I doubt that any of us will be riding in temps low enough for that to matter. I run air-cooled recip aircraft engines throughout the winter with 15w-50 oil. . . longer warm-ups are required before take-off, but aside from that, it doesn't affect engine longevity. . . I expect our air-cooled motorcycle engines to be about the same in that regard.
 

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but those that ride in colder weather should use a 10-40 for its quicker cold flow. real synthetic group IV PAO + group V ester based oils are best, but the benefits of better lubrication is not realized until many miles down the road. cheaper oils deteriorate faster requiring more changes, your choice for sure!
20w-40 is fine for cooler temps. My work van has over 460,000 miles on it and they don't use synthetic. But, according to you, it shouldn't last that long. The majority of engines outlast the vehicle there in now days and a lot of them use the cheapest oil they can put in there.
 

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I used to run Rotella T-6 in my Vic. Been using that oil in my last 2 bikes. Switched to the new Amsoil 20w40 this past summer and notice much the same results as the OP.
 
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